6 Best Drill Powered Sharpeners For Knives And Tools That Restore Old Tools
Give old tools a new edge. Discover the 6 best drill powered sharpeners for knives, mower blades, and more, making restoration fast and easy.
There’s a particular kind of frustration that comes from a dull tool, a feeling that you’re fighting the work instead of doing it. A blunt axe bounces, a dull shovel scrapes, and a nicked mower blade tears the grass instead of cutting it clean. Investing in a set of drill-powered sharpeners turns a tool you already own into a versatile maintenance station, saving you time, money, and a whole lot of effort.
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Why Use a Drill to Sharpen Your Farm Tools?
A cordless drill is one of the most common tools on any small farm or homestead. Using it as the power source for sharpening just makes sense. You avoid the cost and dedicated space required for a bench grinder, which can be overkill for many tasks.
The real advantage is portability and control. You can take the sharpener directly to a mower still on the tractor or touch up a shovel edge right in the field. Unlike hand files, which require a consistent angle and a good bit of elbow grease, a drill-powered sharpener provides the speed while guides and jigs provide the consistency. This combination is perfect for getting a good, serviceable edge quickly without needing years of practice.
It’s not about creating a razor-fine, artisan edge on every single tool. That’s a different craft. This is about functional sharpness—restoring the working edge on the tools you depend on daily. It’s a practical middle ground between time-consuming hand-filing and expensive professional services.
Work Sharp Multi-Sharpener for Versatile Use
The Work Sharp Multi-Sharpener is the jack-of-all-trades in the drill-powered world. Think of it as your go-to for about 80% of the sharpening jobs around the property. It has built-in angle guides for everything from kitchen knives and pocket knives to mower blades, pruners, and shovels.
What makes it so effective is the use of abrasive belts rather than a solid stone. This system flexes slightly, creating a strong convex edge that holds up well to the rough use farm tools often see. The guides are the key here; they take the guesswork out of holding a consistent angle, which is where most people go wrong when sharpening.
This tool is for maintenance, not major restoration. If you have an axe with a huge chip in the blade, you’ll need something more aggressive to start with. But for bringing a work-worn but otherwise intact edge back to life, this sharpener is fast, effective, and incredibly versatile. It’s the one you’ll probably reach for most often.
Drill Doctor 750X for Precision Drill Bit Care
Dull drill bits are a hidden productivity killer. A sharp bit cuts cleanly and quickly, while a dull one just generates heat, wanders off its mark, and can even ruin your project. The Drill Doctor 750X is a specialized tool designed to do one thing perfectly: put a factory-spec edge back on your worn-out drill bits.
Trying to sharpen a drill bit by hand on a grinder is exceptionally difficult. The geometry is complex, and getting both cutting edges identical in angle and length is critical for the bit to drill straight. The 750X uses a chuck and an alignment port to ensure you get that geometry right every single time, from common bits to more specialized masonry and split-point bits.
This is an investment in precision. You won’t use it on your shovel, but you will save a significant amount of money by restoring expensive bits instead of replacing them. For anyone who does even a moderate amount of building or repair work, the Drill Doctor pays for itself by keeping your most-used bits in top cutting condition.
TASP Rotary Grinding Kit for Delicate Edges
Not every tool needs an aggressive sharpening. For grafting knives, small carving tools, or even the delicate blades on a pair of harvest shears, you need finesse. A rotary grinding kit, like the ones from TASP, gives you that precise control for smaller, more delicate work.
These kits typically come with a variety of small stone bits in different shapes and grits. You’re not using a guide here; you’re using skill and a light touch. The small contact point of the grinding stone allows you to get into tight spaces and follow curved edges that larger sharpeners can’t handle. It’s the perfect tool for putting a scalpel-like edge on a knife used for detailed work.
The tradeoff is speed and power. You would never use this to sharpen a lawnmower blade—it would take forever and wear out the bits. This is about precision, not bulk metal removal. It’s the right choice when the quality of the final edge matters more than the speed of the sharpening process.
All American Sharpener 5005 for Mower Blades
A sharp mower blade is essential for healthy pastures and lawns. A dull blade tears grass, leaving it bruised and susceptible to disease, while a sharp blade cuts it cleanly. The All American Sharpener 5005 is purpose-built to get a perfect, consistent edge on your mower blades every time.
Its main feature is a jig that holds the blade securely and allows you to pivot it against the grinding stone at a fixed angle. This is crucial for two reasons:
- Consistency: It ensures the same angle is applied across the entire length of the cutting edge.
- Safety: It keeps your hands away from the spinning stone and the sharp blade.
This sharpener also makes it easier to maintain the blade’s balance. By removing the same amount of metal from each side, you prevent the vibration that an unbalanced blade can cause, which is hard on your mower’s engine and deck. For anyone managing more than a small yard, a dedicated mower blade sharpener is a smart, safety-conscious investment.
BeaverCraft Leather Strop Drill Attachment
Sharpening and honing are two different things. Sharpening removes metal to create an edge. Honing, or stropping, refines and polishes that edge to make it truly sharp. The BeaverCraft Leather Strop drill attachment is the tool for that final, critical step.
After you’ve sharpened a knife or a fine chisel on a stone or belt, the very tip of the edge has a microscopic "burr" of metal on it. Running the blade along a leather strop loaded with a fine polishing compound removes that burr and smooths the edge. This is what takes a tool from "sharp" to "shaving sharp."
You would never use this to restore a dull tool; it removes almost no metal. It’s a finishing tool. Using a drill-powered strop is much faster than doing it by hand and gives a beautiful, polished finish. For kitchen knives, carving tools, and anything that needs a razor edge, this is the step that makes all the difference.
WEN BG9910 Grinding Stone Set for Heavy Work
Sometimes you need to remove a lot of metal, and you need to do it now. This is where a simple grinding stone set for your drill comes in. Think of that old axe head you found half-buried in the dirt or a shovel that’s been used to chop through roots and rocks. The edge is gone, not just dull.
These grinding stones are aggressive. They are designed for reshaping, removing nicks and chips, and establishing a new bevel on heavily damaged tools. There are no guides here, so it requires a steady hand and a good eye. You have to control the angle and the pressure yourself.
This is not the tool for fine knives or delicate pruners. You can easily overheat the metal, ruining its temper and making the edge brittle. But for rough, heavy tools that need serious repair before they can even be properly sharpened, a basic grinding stone is an indispensable and affordable first step.
Safe Techniques for Drill-Powered Sharpening
Using a drill to power a spinning abrasive wheel is effective, but it demands respect. The single most important piece of gear is proper eye protection. A small piece of metal or a fragment from a grinding stone traveling at high speed can cause serious, permanent injury. Don’t even think about starting without it.
Secure your work. Trying to hold a shovel in one hand and a running drill in the other is a recipe for disaster. Use a vise or sturdy clamps to lock the tool in place so you can use both hands to control the drill. This leads to a safer process and a much better result.
Finally, manage your heat. Pressing too hard generates friction and heat, which can turn the edge of your tool blue. This indicates the steel has lost its temper, meaning it will no longer hold an edge. Use light, consistent pressure and work in short passes. If the tool gets too hot to touch, stop and let it cool down. Patience is the key to a good, lasting edge.
Ultimately, a dull tool costs you more than just effort; it costs you time you don’t have. By pairing a few inexpensive attachments with the drill you already own, you create a powerful system for keeping your tools in peak condition. It’s a small investment that pays you back every time you make a clean cut, dig an easy hole, or finish a job faster than you thought you could.
