7 Best Chicken Coop Pest Control Solutions For Mites And Lice Old-Timers Use
Control coop mites and lice with 7 time-tested remedies from old-timers. Learn how natural solutions like wood ash and herbs can protect your flock.
You run your hand along a hen’s back and feel a crusty patch, or worse, see tiny specks scattering near her vent. It’s the moment every chicken keeper dreads: the discovery of mites or lice. Ignoring these external parasites isn’t an option, as a small problem can quickly escalate into anemia, reduced egg production, and even death in your flock.
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Identifying Mites vs. Lice on Your Flock
Before you can treat the problem, you have to know what you’re fighting. Mites and lice are not the same, and they require slightly different approaches. The best way to check is by picking up a bird at dusk or after dark, when pests are most active, and thoroughly inspecting the feathers and skin around the vent and under the wings.
Lice are visible, fast-moving, straw-colored insects about the size of a sesame seed. You’ll see them scurrying at the base of the feather shafts. They also lay their eggs in white clumps, called nits, that stick to the feathers and won’t brush off easily.
Mites are much smaller, often looking like tiny specks of dirt or pepper. Northern Fowl Mites live their entire lives on the bird, leaving behind a grimy, scabby mess on the skin. The more insidious Red Mites (or roost mites) live in the coop’s cracks and crevices, coming out at night to feed on your sleeping chickens. If your birds seem agitated on the roosts at night or are reluctant to go inside, grab a flashlight and check the ends of the roost bars—that’s where you’ll find them.
First Saturday Lime: The All-Purpose Coop Dust
Many old-timers swore by diatomaceous earth (DE), but we now know the fine silica dust can be a respiratory irritant for both you and your flock. A modern, and I’d argue better, alternative is First Saturday Lime. It’s a specific, non-caustic formula derived from calcite that is completely safe for birds to be around.
Get 4lbs of HARRIS Food Grade Diatomaceous Earth, a natural product with no additives, OMRI listed for organic use. Includes a powder duster for easy application.
Unlike DE, which works by physically cutting up an insect’s exoskeleton, First Saturday Lime works by desiccation—it dries them out. This makes it an excellent preventative measure and a treatment for light infestations. You can sprinkle it directly on the coop floor before adding fresh bedding, mix it into your flock’s favorite dust bath spot, and even dust it into the nesting boxes.
Think of it as your first line of defense. It creates an inhospitable environment for pests without posing a risk to your chickens’ sensitive respiratory systems. It’s not the knockout punch for a heavy infestation, but it’s the best tool for keeping one from ever starting.
Hardwood Ash Dust Baths: A Free & Natural Fix
There’s no solution more traditional or cost-effective than wood ash. If you heat with a wood stove, you have a free and constant supply of one of the best pest control amendments available. Chickens instinctively know what to do with it.
The key is to use only ash from clean, untreated hardwood. Never use ash from charcoal briquettes, pressure-treated lumber, or trash fires, as these contain harmful chemicals. The fine, powdery nature of hardwood ash works just like other dusts: it clogs the breathing spiracles of mites and lice, suffocating them. It also helps soothe irritated skin.
Simply scoop cooled ash into your chickens’ designated dust bathing areas. They will gleefully work it deep into their feathers, right down to the skin where the pests hide. Yes, it’s messy, and your pristine white birds will look like they’ve been rolling in soot, but it is remarkably effective and completely natural.
Dried Wormwood & Mint in Nesting Boxes
Prevention is always easier than treatment. One of the oldest tricks in the book is to use aromatic herbs to make your coop and nesting boxes less appealing to pests. Mites and lice navigate by scent, and pungent herbs like wormwood and mint are powerful repellents.
You can grow these herbs easily in your garden. Hang bunches of dried wormwood, mint, or even lavender inside the coop. For the nesting boxes, crush the dried leaves and mix them generously into the fresh pine shavings or straw. The hens’ movement will continually release the aromatic oils.
It’s important to be realistic about this method. Herbs are a deterrent, not a cure. They won’t eliminate an existing infestation, but they play a crucial role in an integrated pest management plan. By making the nesting boxes an unpleasant place for pests to settle, you reduce the overall parasite load on your flock.
Harris Neem Oil: A Natural Coop & Bird Spray
Neem oil is a powerful, naturally derived insecticide and repellent pressed from the seeds of the neem tree. It works by disrupting the hormones of insects, preventing them from eating, molting, and reproducing. It’s a versatile tool that can be used to treat both the coop and, with caution, the birds themselves.
To treat the coop, mix 100% cold-pressed neem oil concentrate with water and a small drop of dish soap (as an emulsifier) in a spray bottle. Thoroughly spray down roosts, walls, and especially any cracks or joints where mites love to hide. This is best done after a coop clean-out.
For treating birds directly, particularly for scaly leg mites, a diluted neem solution can be applied to the legs and feet. However, avoid soaking a bird’s feathers in any oil-based product, as it can interfere with their ability to regulate body temperature. Neem oil is a great natural option, but it requires more frequent application than chemical treatments.
Bonide Sulfur Dust for Roosts and Cracks
When you have a stubborn mite problem, especially red mites hiding in the coop structure, you may need to step up from ash to sulfur dust. Sulfur is a natural mineral that has been used for centuries as a fungicide and insecticide. It’s a more potent weapon for treating the environment.
The application is targeted. Using a powder duster or an old squeeze bottle, puff the fine yellow dust deep into every crack, crevice, and roost bar socket in your coop. This is where red mites congregate during the day. The sulfur creates a toxic environment that kills mites on contact and deters others from settling in.
A word of caution: sulfur dust is a respiratory irritant. Always wear a dust mask and goggles during application and ensure the coop is well-ventilated before letting the birds back in. It’s a powerful tool, but one that demands respect and proper handling.
Hydrated Lime Wash for Deep Coop Cleaning
For a coop that has been overwhelmed by a persistent pest problem, a lime wash is the ultimate reset button. This is not the same as the gentle First Saturday Lime or dusty barn lime. We’re talking about hydrated lime (also called slaked lime), which is highly alkaline and caustic when wet.
You mix the hydrated lime with water to create a thin, paint-like slurry called whitewash. After completely mucking out the coop, you paint this mixture onto all interior surfaces—walls, ceiling, and roosts. As it dries, it hardens, filling in tiny cracks and creating a bright white, high-pH surface where no pathogen or parasite can survive.
Safety is non-negotiable with this method. Wear gloves, eye protection, and a mask during application. Most importantly, your flock must be kept out of the coop until the lime wash is 100% dry and cured. The wet lime is dangerous, but once dry, it is inert and perfectly safe for the birds. This is an annual deep-clean strategy, not a quick fix.
Elector PSP for Severe Mite Infestations
Sometimes, despite your best efforts with natural methods, an infestation gets out of control. When your flock’s health is seriously at risk from a heavy parasite load, it’s time to bring in the most effective treatment available: Elector PSP. This is the modern solution for a problem that would have once required much harsher chemicals.
Elector PSP’s active ingredient is spinosad, a compound derived from a soil bacterium. It is incredibly effective against both mites and lice and has the significant advantage of having a zero-day egg withdrawal period. This means you can treat your birds and continue to eat their eggs without worry.
It’s a concentrate that you mix with water and apply directly to the birds and the coop with a sprayer. It kills on contact and provides residual protection. While it is more expensive than other options and isn’t a "natural" remedy in the same vein as wood ash, it is often the most humane and responsible choice for ending a severe infestation quickly and decisively. Don’t let a flock suffer out of principle when a safe, effective solution exists.
Ultimately, controlling mites and lice comes down to vigilance and a multi-pronged approach. Combine a clean coop, good dust baths, and preventative herbs, and you’ll handle most issues before they start. Know when to use a gentle touch and when to bring in a stronger tool, and you’ll keep your flock healthy and productive for years to come.
