6 Best DIY Horse Feeder Plans For Budget Farms That Slash Hay Waste
Explore 6 budget-friendly DIY horse feeder plans designed to slash hay waste. These cost-effective solutions are perfect for any small farm.
Watching a horse toss a perfectly good flake of hay into the mud is a painful sight for any farm owner. That’s not just feed; it’s money and hard work being trampled into the ground. Building your own feeder is one of the most direct ways to take control of your biggest variable expense: the hay bill.
Disclosure: As an Amazon Associate, this site earns from qualifying purchases. Thank you!
Why DIY Feeders Cut Your Farm’s Hay Bill
Hay waste is a silent drain on a farm’s resources. When you feed on the ground, horses will inevitably walk on, urinate on, and generally soil a significant portion of their meal, rendering it unpalatable. Studies and real-world experience show this waste can be as high as 40%.
A well-designed feeder physically separates the hay from the ground. This simple barrier is the first line of defense against trampling and contamination. Even the most basic box or rack keeps the bulk of the hay clean and edible, immediately converting waste back into nutrition.
Furthermore, many DIY plans incorporate slow-feeding elements. By making the horse work a little harder to pull out each mouthful, you mimic natural grazing behavior. This not only stretches the hay supply but also improves digestive health and reduces boredom-related behaviors like cribbing or weaving. The savings aren’t just theoretical; they show up as fewer bales used each month.
The Upcycled Tire Feeder: Simple & Rugged
A large tractor tire is the foundation for one of the simplest and most durable ground feeders you can make. Often available for free from tire shops or local farms, these are nearly indestructible. They won’t splinter like wood or shatter like brittle plastic in the cold.
The key to safety is preparation. You must ensure there are absolutely no exposed steel belts on the inner or outer surfaces, as these can cause serious injury. Use a grinder or heavy-duty file to smooth any rough spots. Also, drill several large drainage holes in the bottom to prevent water from pooling and turning your hay into a soggy, moldy mess.
This feeder is a straightforward container, not a slow feeder. It excels at keeping hay contained and off the mud in a pasture setting. It’s a fantastic weekend project for someone who needs a quick, low-cost solution that will last for years with virtually no maintenance.
The Wooden Pallet Box Feeder for Groups
For feeding two or three horses together, a box feeder made from repurposed pallets is a classic budget option. Pallets provide a ready-made structure, drastically cutting down on the amount of measuring and cutting required. By standing two pallets on their sides and boxing them in with plywood or more pallet wood, you can create a sturdy, large-capacity feeder.
The tradeoff for using "free" material is the time you’ll spend on safety. You must use screws, not nails, as nails can work loose and become a hazard. Go over every inch of the wood to remove splinters, and sand all edges that horses might come into contact with. Avoid any pallets stamped with "MB" (Methyl Bromide), as they are treated with a toxic chemical; look for "HT" (Heat Treated) instead.
This design is highly adaptable. You can make it taller for larger horses or add a simple wooden grid over the top to create a basic slow feeder. Just remember that untreated wood will eventually rot, so placing it in a well-drained area or giving it a coat of animal-safe sealant will extend its life.
The 55-Gallon Barrel Slow Feeder Plan
A food-grade 55-gallon plastic barrel can be transformed into an excellent slow feeder for a single horse. The concept is to cut holes in the side of the barrel, fill it with hay, and let the horse pull mouthfuls out through the openings. This slows down consumption, prevents waste, and provides mental stimulation.
The success of this feeder depends entirely on the size of the holes. Too small, and the horse will become frustrated and may even give up. Too large, and they’ll pull out huge chunks, defeating the purpose of a slow feeder. A 4-inch to 5-inch hole saw is a good starting point for most horses and hay types.
Always use a barrel that previously held non-toxic materials, like food products. Clean it thoroughly before use. Because it’s enclosed, you must be diligent about removing old, uneaten hay to prevent mold growth, especially in damp weather. This feeder is ideal for an easy keeper in a dry lot or stall who needs their forage to last longer.
The IBC Tote Feeder: A Large-Scale Solution
When you need to feed a small herd or want to put out a full square bale at a time, an IBC (Intermediate Bulk Container) tote is an incredible resource. These units, which consist of a large plastic bladder inside a metal cage, are built tough. By removing the top of the plastic bladder, you create a massive, weather-resistant hay bin.
Modifying an IBC tote requires a reciprocating saw or jigsaw to cut the thick plastic. The metal cage provides structure and prevents horses from pushing the feeder around. The solid bottom and high sides offer excellent protection from rain and snow, saving you a tremendous amount of hay that would otherwise be lost to the elements.
These feeders are heavy and bulky, so decide on a permanent location before you fill it. They are too large for a single horse and can lead to overeating if not managed properly. But for a group of three to five horses, an IBC tote feeder can be a game-changer, reducing your daily feeding chores and cutting waste dramatically.
The Corner Stall Feeder from Plywood
Stall space is always at a premium, and a DIY corner feeder is the perfect solution. Built from three-quarter-inch plywood, this feeder tucks neatly into a corner, keeping hay contained and off the stall floor where it gets mixed with bedding. The classic design is a V-shape, but a simple box also works well.
Construction is straightforward, but material choice and placement are critical. The feeder must be mounted high enough that a horse can’t get a leg caught in it, but low enough for comfortable eating. The front edge should be smooth and rounded. Sealing the inside with an animal-safe waterproof coating will prevent urine and water from soaking into the wood, making it last longer and easier to clean.
While great for keeping a stall tidy, this design doesn’t inherently slow down eating. However, it can easily be paired with a slow-feed hay net placed inside the box. This gives you the benefits of a clean stall and controlled forage intake in one compact unit.
Building a Ground-Level Hay Box with Grate
This design is arguably the most effective for reducing waste while promoting a natural eating posture. It consists of a low-profile wooden or plastic box with a heavy grate that sits on top of the hay. As the horse eats, the grate lowers, keeping them from flinging hay out of the box.
The grate is the most important component. It can be made from metal conduit, heavy-duty plastic mesh, or smooth wooden dowels. The openings must be small enough to prevent a hoof from getting trapped (2-3 inches square is a safe bet) but large enough for the horse to pull hay through. The grate needs to be heavy enough that the horse can’t easily flip it out of the box.
This feeder style is fantastic for digestive health because it allows the horse to eat with its head down, the way nature intended. This helps clear airways and promotes proper chewing. It is more complex to build than a simple tire feeder, but the significant reduction in hay waste and the health benefits make it a worthwhile project.
Feeder Placement and Safety Considerations
Building a safe feeder is only half the battle; using it safely is just as important. Placement can prevent fights and injuries. In a group setting, provide more feeding stations than there are horses, or use a large circular feeder that allows subordinate animals to escape pressure from a dominant horse.
Regular inspection is non-negotiable. Check weekly for loose screws, sharp edges, splinters, or cracks where a hoof could get caught. A feeder that was safe when you built it can become a hazard after a season of use, a few kicks, or exposure to harsh weather.
Finally, always consider the individual horse. An aggressive eater might need a slow feeder, while an older horse with dental issues might need easier access. There is no single "best" feeder—the right choice is the one that is safe, minimizes waste, and fits the specific needs of your animals and your farm management style.
Slashing your hay bill isn’t about buying less hay; it’s about wasting less of what you buy. With a weekend of work and some common-sense materials, you can build a feeder that pays for itself in just a few months. The best plan is the one you can build safely and that fits the unique needs of your horses and your farm.
