6 Best Dog Fences To Keep Out Coyotes From Farms Old Farmers Swear By
Keep coyotes out and dogs in with 6 farmer-tested fence designs. Learn the crucial heights, depths, and materials for effective farm predator control.
You hear it just after dusk, a series of yips and howls that sends a chill down your spine and your livestock into a nervous huddle. That sound means the coyotes are on the prowl, and they’re testing your boundaries. For any hobby farmer with chickens, goats, sheep, or even a beloved farm dog, a flimsy fence is just an invitation for heartbreak.
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Why a Coyote-Proof Fence Is Non-Negotiable
A coyote isn’t just a wild dog; it’s an incredibly intelligent and adaptable predator. They can dig, climb, and even squeeze through surprisingly small gaps. Thinking a simple three-foot fence will protect your flock is a mistake you only make once.
The real job of a coyote-proof fence isn’t just to be a barrier, but to be a deterrent. It needs to convince a probing coyote that the effort required to get in isn’t worth the potential meal. This means addressing three key attack vectors: going over, going under, and going through. A successful fence system makes all three options too difficult, encouraging the coyote to move on to easier targets.
Red Brand Woven Wire: The Classic Farm Barrier
Woven wire is the backbone of countless farms for a reason. Its "hinge joint" construction allows it to flex under pressure without breaking, which is crucial when a large animal (or a determined predator) pushes against it. Unlike welded wire, the knots can absorb impact, making it a durable, long-term investment.
The key to making woven wire work against coyotes is height and proper installation. You’ll want a fence that’s at least five feet tall. The graduated spacing, with smaller openings at the bottom and larger ones at the top, is excellent for containing your own animals, but a determined coyote can still find a way to climb it.
Think of woven wire as the foundation of your defense, not the entire system. It’s a fantastic physical barrier that clearly defines a perimeter. But to make it truly coyote-proof, you’ll need to add other elements to address their climbing and digging instincts.
Gallagher Electric Netting for Portability
Sometimes your fence needs to move with your animals, especially if you practice rotational grazing with sheep or goats. This is where electric netting shines. It’s a physical barrier and a powerful psychological one, delivering a sharp but safe shock that teaches predators to keep their distance.
The beauty of netting is its ease of setup and takedown. You can fence a new paddock in under an hour, providing fresh pasture for your animals and a secure perimeter. However, it requires diligent management. You must keep the fence line clear of weeds that can ground it out and reduce its shocking power, and you have to check the charger regularly.
Don’t mistake portability for weakness. A well-maintained, properly energized electric net is one of the most effective coyote deterrents available. Coyotes are sensitive around their nose and ears, and one good zap is often enough to make them permanently wary of that fence line.
Bekaert High-Tensile Wire for Max Security
Secure your property with BEKAERT High Tensile Barbed Wire. This 1,320' roll of 15.5-gauge, high-carbon steel wire boasts a 950 lb breaking load and a reverse twist design to prevent sagging.
When you need a permanent perimeter that can withstand almost anything, high-tensile wire is the answer. This isn’t the flimsy wire you find at a big-box store; it’s a high-carbon steel wire that is lighter, stronger, and longer-lasting than standard fencing. It’s designed to be installed under significant tension, creating a barrier that is incredibly difficult to push through or compromise.
A typical high-tensile coyote fence will have multiple strands, perhaps 7 to 9, with tighter spacing at the bottom. By alternating hot and ground wires, you create a formidable electric barrier. A coyote can’t push through without getting shocked, and it can’t dig under easily if the bottom wire is low to the ground and also electrified.
Installation is more involved than with other fences. It requires solid, well-braced corner posts and the right tools to achieve proper tension. But the tradeoff is a low-maintenance, highly effective fence that will last for decades. This is the solution for protecting a large, permanent pasture where predator pressure is high.
Yardgard Welded Wire for A Sturdy Perimeter
Welded wire is a popular choice for smaller enclosures like chicken runs or garden perimeters because it’s rigid and has small, consistent openings. The welds hold the wire in a tight grid, preventing animals from pushing their heads through and making it harder for predators to breach. It’s generally more affordable and widely available than woven wire.
The main tradeoff is durability under pressure. Where woven wire flexes, welded wire can break. A determined coyote or a large animal hitting the fence can snap the welds, creating a hole. For this reason, it’s best used for smaller areas or in conjunction with a stronger framing system, like wood posts and rails.
For a chicken coop run, a 4-foot roll of 1/2-inch hardware cloth (a type of welded wire) is an excellent choice. Bury it a foot deep to stop diggers and cover the top of the run completely. This creates a secure "box" that keeps your flock safe from nearly any threat.
The Coyote Roller System for Topping Fences
A tall fence is a good start, but a smart coyote can climb it like a ladder. This is where the Coyote Roller comes in. It’s a simple but brilliant system: a free-spinning aluminum roller mounted on brackets at the very top of your fence.
When a coyote tries to get a foothold to pull itself over, the roller spins. This denies the animal any grip, and it simply falls back to the ground. It’s a humane and incredibly effective way to defeat their climbing ability without resorting to electricity or sharp wires.
Coyote Rollers can be added to almost any existing fence that’s at least six feet tall, including chain link, wood, or vinyl. While it’s an added expense, it’s one of the most reliable ways to "harden" your perimeter. It directly counters a coyote’s natural athleticism, turning your tall fence into an unclimbable wall.
Fortress Chain Link: A Tall, Tough Deterrent
While often seen as a residential fence, chain link has its place on the farm, especially for high-security zones. Think about the area around your barn, your kidding pens, or a dedicated dog run. A six-foot or even eight-foot chain link fence is an imposing visual and physical barrier.
The strength of chain link is its sheer toughness and height. It’s very difficult for a predator to tear or break through the galvanized steel mesh. However, much like woven wire, a determined coyote can learn to climb it. This makes it a prime candidate for a Coyote Roller system along the top rail to negate that threat completely.
Adding a Buried Apron to Any Fence System
If a coyote can’t go over or through, it will try to go under. This is the most common point of failure for farm fences. A buried apron, also called an L-footer, is the definitive solution to stop digging predators.
The concept is simple. You take an extra 18 to 24 inches of fencing material and lay it flat on the ground, extending outward from the base of your fence. You can then stake it down securely and cover it with soil or rocks. When a coyote tries to dig at the fenceline, its paws hit the buried wire mesh, and it can’t get any further.
This technique can be applied to almost any fence type, from woven wire to chain link. It’s extra labor during installation, there’s no denying that. But skipping this step is leaving your back door wide open for a predator that is a master excavator.
Ultimately, the best coyote fence isn’t a single product, but a complete system. It’s about layering defenses—height to deter jumping, an apron to stop digging, and a roller or hot wire to defeat climbing. By understanding how a coyote thinks and attacks, you can build a barrier that lets you, and your animals, rest easier at night.
