6 Best Repurposed Planters for Indoor Gardens

That pile of containers by your back door isn’t just recycling waiting to be taken out; it’s a free supply depot for your next indoor garden. With a little creativity, the packaging from your groceries can become the foundation for growing fresh herbs, greens, and more. Starting an indoor garden doesn’t require a trip to the store or a hit to your wallet—it just requires a change in perspective.

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Starting Your Indoor Garden for Zero Dollars

The goal here is resourcefulness, not just being cheap. Using what you already have transforms waste into a productive asset. It’s about seeing a potential planter in every sturdy container that passes through your kitchen.

This mindset forces you to focus on the fundamentals of what a plant needs: space for roots, a medium to grow in, and proper drainage. You quickly learn that a fancy pot and a repurposed can both serve the same basic function. The difference is that one costs you nothing and keeps a piece of plastic or metal out of the landfill a little longer.

Before you grab any old container, consider three things: size, material, and durability. Is it big enough for the plant you want to grow? Is the material safe for growing food in and sturdy enough to last a season? Most importantly, can you easily add drainage holes?

Gallon Lucerne Milk Jugs for Leafy Greens

A plastic gallon milk jug is one of the most versatile free planters you can find. Its size makes it perfect for plants that need a decent amount of soil but don’t have incredibly deep roots. Think leafy greens like loose-leaf lettuce, spinach, or arugula.

To prepare one, simply wash it out thoroughly and cut it in half horizontally. The bottom half becomes your planter. The plastic is soft enough that you can easily poke several drainage holes in the bottom with a sharp knife or a drill bit. This depth is key for greens, which appreciate consistent moisture without being waterlogged.

The main tradeoff is aesthetics and longevity. A milk jug planter won’t win any design awards, and the thin plastic can become brittle after a few months of exposure to sunlight, even through a window. But for a quick, functional, and free way to get a crop of salad greens going, they are hard to beat.

Folgers Coffee Cans for Deep-Rooted Herbs

Those classic red Folgers cans, or any similar metal coffee can, are excellent for herbs that develop a taproot. Think parsley, cilantro, and dill. Their depth gives these roots the room they need to grow straight down, which is crucial for a healthy plant.

The metal construction has two distinct advantages. First, it’s completely opaque, which protects the roots from light—something they don’t get in nature and don’t appreciate in a container. Second, they are incredibly durable and won’t break down or crack like some plastics.

The biggest challenge is creating drainage. You will need a hammer and a large nail or a drill with a bit designed for metal to punch a few holes in the bottom. Without this step, you’re just creating a bucket that will drown your plant’s roots. Also, be aware that over time, the metal can begin to rust, especially around the drainage holes. It’s a minor issue, but something to keep an eye on.

Kirkland Egg Cartons for Starting Seeds

Cardboard egg cartons are the gold standard for upcycled seed starters. Each little cup is the perfect size for a single seed, holding just enough soil to get it germinated and started. The cardboard itself is a bonus, as it holds moisture well, creating a humid environment that seeds love.

The best part is how they simplify transplanting. Once your seedling has its first set of true leaves and is strong enough to move, you can simply tear away the individual cup and plant the whole thing—cardboard and all—into a larger pot. This minimizes transplant shock, as you never have to disturb the delicate new roots.

Don’t make the common mistake of thinking you can grow a plant to maturity in an egg carton. These are for starting seeds, not for long-term growth. The cardboard will break down quickly once it’s consistently wet, and the small pockets offer nowhere near enough room for a root system to develop. Think of them as a temporary nursery, not a permanent home.

Chobani Yogurt Cups: Perfect for Succulents

Single-serving yogurt cups, like the kind Chobani or Oikos come in, have a perfect shape and size for small plants like succulents and cacti. These plants often prefer to be slightly root-bound in smaller containers, which helps prevent the soil from staying wet for too long and causing root rot.

Their small size makes them ideal for lining a sunny windowsill with a variety of small plants. The plastic is sturdy and easy to clean. Most importantly, it’s soft enough to poke drainage holes in the bottom with a thumbtack or the tip of a knife.

The obvious limitation is their size. A yogurt cup is a great home for a small succulent cutting or a newly propagated plant, but it’s not a forever pot. As the plant grows, you will need to upgrade it to a larger container. Consider these cups as excellent "starter pots" for the small-scale plants in your collection.

2-Liter Coke Bottles as Self-Watering Pots

A 2-liter soda bottle can be turned into a surprisingly effective self-watering planter with just a few cuts. This design is fantastic for thirsty plants like mint or basil, or for anyone who tends to be a bit forgetful with their watering can. It creates a system where the plant can draw up water as it needs it.

Here’s the basic construction:

• Cut the bottle in half, about midway up.
• Poke a few drainage holes in the bottle cap and screw it back on the top half.
• Invert the top half (the funnel-shaped piece) and nest it inside the bottom half.
• Run a wick—like a strip of cotton from an old t-shirt or a piece of thick yarn—through one of the holes in the cap, with one end in the soil and the other dangling into the bottom reservoir.

Fill the top part with soil and your plant, and fill the bottom reservoir with water. The wick will draw water up into the soil as it dries out, providing a consistent source of moisture. This passive irrigation system is a game-changer for keeping water-loving plants happy.

The primary thing to watch for is keeping the system clean. The water reservoir can grow algae if it gets too much light, so using a dark-colored bottle or wrapping the base in tape can help. You also need to make sure your soil mix is well-draining, as the constant access to moisture can lead to waterlogged soil if you’re not careful.

Ball Mason Jars for Simple Water Rooting

While not a planter for soil, a mason jar is an essential tool for a zero-cost garden because it’s the perfect vessel for rooting plant cuttings in water. Propagating plants like pothos, basil, or coleus is one of the easiest ways to multiply your plant collection for free.

The clear glass is the jar’s biggest advantage and its main weakness. Being able to see the roots develop is helpful and rewarding; you know exactly when the cutting is ready to be moved to soil. A good rule of thumb is to wait until the new roots are at least an inch long.

However, that same clear glass allows sunlight to penetrate the water, which encourages algae to grow. Algae will compete with your cutting for nutrients and can foul the water. To prevent this, you can either use a dark-colored glass jar or simply wrap your clear jar in paper or a dark cloth. Change the water every few days to keep it fresh and oxygenated.

Drainage & Prep for Your Upcycled Planters

No matter what container you choose, this part is not optional. Every single upcycled planter needs drainage holes. Without a way for excess water to escape, your plant’s roots will sit in stagnant water and rot, killing the plant faster than almost anything else.

Creating those holes depends on the material. For soft plastics like milk jugs or yogurt cups, a sharp awl, a drill, or even a heated nail can work. For harder plastic or metal, a drill is your best bet. For cardboard, you can just poke holes with a pencil. Aim for at least three to four holes, spaced evenly across the bottom.

Before adding soil, always clean your containers thoroughly with hot, soapy water. If you’re reusing a container that previously held a plant, or if you’re concerned about bacteria, a quick rinse with a diluted solution of 1 part bleach to 10 parts water will sterilize it. Let it air dry completely before you start planting. This simple step prevents the transfer of diseases to your new plants.

Your home is already full of potential for a thriving indoor garden, and it doesn’t have to cost you a thing. Look at your containers with a new eye, always prioritize drainage, and start small. You’ll be amazed at how much life you can grow from what you used to call trash.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

What are repurposed planters for indoor gardens?

Repurposed planters for indoor gardens are everyday household objects—such as glass jars, tin cans, wooden boxes, or ceramic bowls—converted into plant containers. These items provide an eco-friendly and inexpensive alternative to traditional store-bought nursery pots. Gardeners frequently adapt them for indoor spaces by drilling drainage holes, sealing porous surfaces, or dropping an existing plastic nursery pot inside as a decorative cover.

What does cachepot mean when using repurposed indoor planters?

A cachepot is a decorative outer vessel without bottom drainage holes designed to conceal a plain inner pot that does have drainage. In indoor gardening, many repurposed items like vintage ceramic bowls, teapots, and metal biscuit tins function best as cachepots. You lift the inner plastic nursery pot out to water the plant in a sink, allow excess water to drain completely, and return it to the outer container.

How do I add drainage holes to repurposed glass containers for indoor plants?

Drilling drainage holes into repurposed glass requires a diamond-tipped core drill bit running at low speed while keeping the surface wet. Place masking tape over the drill site to prevent the bit from slipping on the slick glass. Submerge the glass container under a shallow layer of cold water or spray water continuously while drilling at a 45-degree angle to start, then level out the drill bit. Apply light pressure at roughly 500 RPM to avoid cracking the vessel.

How do I clean and disinfect old metal cans before planting herbs indoors?

Sanitizing old metal food cans requires washing with hot soapy water, followed by a soak in a diluted bleach solution. Scrub away all paper labels and food residue with dish soap and warm water. Next, soak the metal cans for 10 minutes in a solution of 9 parts water to 1 part unscented household bleach to kill lingering fungi or bacteria. Rinse thoroughly and let the cans dry completely before punching bottom drainage holes with a hammer and a large nail.

Which is better for indoor succulents repurposed tin cans or glass jars?

Tin cans are better than glass jars for indoor succulents because metal is easy to puncture with drainage holes and prevents light exposure to root systems. Succulent roots quickly rot when exposed to stagnant water and algal growth, which frequently happens inside clear, undrained glass jars. Metal cans allow you to easily create multiple bottom drainage holes using a common hammer and nail. If using glass jars, you must either drill drainage or use an internal plastic liner with gravel space.

How much does it cost to make DIY repurposed planters for an indoor windowsill garden?

Making DIY repurposed planters for an indoor windowsill garden typically costs between $0 and $15 total for basic sealant or drill attachments. The containers themselves—such as empty pasta sauce jars, coffee tins, or plastic milk jugs—cost nothing if saved from household recycling. You may need to spend $5 to $10 on a diamond glass bit or a can of clear water-resistant interior acrylic sealer if waterproofing untreated wood. Basic hand tools like hammers, nails, and scissors are usually already on hand.

Why are indoor plants rotting in repurposed containers without drainage?

Root rot occurs in repurposed containers because trapped irrigation water suffocates plant roots and fosters anaerobic fungal pathogens. Without an outlet, water collects at the base of impermeable vessels like mugs or mason jars, turning potting soil into a soggy, oxygen-depleted zone. Even adding a layer of pebbles to the bottom simply raises the perched water table closer to the roots rather than providing true drainage. Always add drainage holes or switch to using the container strictly as a cachepot.

Are vintage ceramic teacups and painted metal containers safe for growing indoor edible herbs?

Vintage ceramics and aged painted metal containers are not always safe for edible herbs due to potential lead and chemical leaching into the potting mix. Pre-1970s glazed teacups, antique pottery, and chipped painted tins frequently contain lead or cadmium that can transfer into acidic soil and plant tissues. To use antique vessels safely for culinary herbs, test the glaze with a home lead swab kit or keep the herb inside an inert food-grade plastic pot placed inside the vintage container.