6 Best Well Pump Repair Kits for DIY Maintenance

There’s a unique silence that falls over a small farm when the water stops. The hum of the pressure tank goes quiet, the sprinklers go limp, and you know you have a problem. For those of us relying on a well, a pump failure isn’t an inconvenience; it’s a full-blown work stoppage. Learning to handle basic repairs yourself is one of the most valuable skills you can have, turning a potential crisis into a manageable afternoon task.

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Know Your Pump: Shallow vs. Deep Well Systems

Before you can fix anything, you have to know what you’re working with. Nearly all farm wells use one of two systems: a shallow well jet pump or a deep well submersible pump. The difference is simple but determines everything about the repair. A shallow well pump sits above ground, usually in a pump house or basement, and pulls water up from a source less than 25 feet deep. Because it’s right there, it’s far easier to access for maintenance.

A deep well submersible pump, on the other hand, is a long cylinder that sits down inside the well casing, submerged in the water. It pushes water up from depths of hundreds of feet. The pump itself is incredibly reliable, but when it or its components fail, the repair involves the major task of pulling the entire unit up out of the ground.

Knowing which you have is step one. If you see a pump connected to your pressure tank, you have a shallow well or convertible jet system. If all you see is a pipe coming out of the ground and heading to the tank, your pump is down in the well. The right repair kit for one is useless for the other.

Goulds J-Series Jet Pump Complete Overhaul Kit

If you have a classic cast-iron jet pump, there’s a good chance it’s a Goulds. These things are legendary for their durability, and many have been running for decades. When one starts to sound rough, struggle to build pressure, or runs constantly, it doesn’t always mean it’s dead. It often just means the wear-and-tear parts are finally worn out.

This is where a complete overhaul kit comes in. It’s not for a small leak; it’s for a full rebuild. The kit typically includes the parts that do the real work and take the most abuse: a new impeller, a diffuser, and all the necessary gaskets, o-rings, and the critical mechanical seal. You’re essentially replacing the entire "wet end" of the pump.

The job is more involved than just replacing a switch, requiring you to take the pump housing apart. But the tradeoff is huge. For a fraction of the cost of a new pump, you can restore a high-quality old one to like-new performance. This is the "fix it right, fix it once" philosophy that keeps old farm equipment running long after newer, cheaper models have been sent to the scrap heap.

Myers HJ Series Convertible Jet Pump Repair Kit

The Myers HJ series is another one of those pumps you see everywhere on older properties. They were popular because they’re "convertible," meaning they can be set up for either shallow or deep well applications. Like any pump, their weak point is where the moving parts meet the stationary ones—specifically, the seal on the motor shaft.

When you see a persistent drip coming from between the pump housing and the electric motor, the shaft seal has failed. This kit is designed to fix that exact problem. It usually contains the spring-loaded mechanical seal, an o-ring for the housing, and maybe a gasket or two. It’s a targeted repair for the most common failure on these pumps.

You don’t need to do a full rebuild if all you have is a leak. This kit saves you time and money by addressing the specific point of failure. Catching a seal leak early is critical. If left to drip, the water will eventually get into the motor’s bearings, turning a simple seal replacement into a much more expensive motor replacement.

Red Lion RJS-PREM Series Sprinkler Pump Seal Kit

Don’t let the "sprinkler pump" name fool you. Many hobby farmers use these rugged, high-volume pumps for all sorts of tasks, from irrigating garden plots to transferring water from a pond to a stock tank. They’re simple, powerful, and generally reliable, but they all share a common failure point: the shaft seal.

A seal kit for a Red Lion or similar pump is the definition of cheap insurance. The kit is almost always just the two-part mechanical seal and a new o-ring for the pump body. The symptom is unmistakable: a small, steady drip of water from the weep hole on the underside of the pump, right behind the main housing. That hole is there specifically to tell you the seal is failing.

This is one of the easiest and most important DIY repairs you can do. The process involves removing the pump housing, sliding off the old impeller, and carefully replacing the old, worn seal components with the new ones. For less than twenty dollars and an hour of your time, you can prevent the water from destroying the motor bearings and save yourself from buying a whole new pump.

Square D Pumptrol Pressure Switch Replacement

Sometimes the problem isn’t the pump at all; it’s the brain of the operation. The pressure switch is a small box, usually mounted on the plumbing near your pressure tank, that tells the pump when to turn on and when to turn off. When this switch fails, it can create symptoms that make you think your pump is shot.

A faulty switch can cause a few classic problems:

• The pump won’t turn on at all, even when the pressure is zero.
• The pump won’t turn off, causing it to run continuously and build dangerously high pressure.
• The contacts inside get pitted and arc, causing the pump to chatter or cycle erratically.

The "repair kit" for a pressure switch is simply a brand new switch. They are inexpensive and standardized, with the Square D Pumptrol being the go-to choice for generations. It’s the first thing an old-timer checks when the water goes out. Before you condemn your pump, turn off the power, and check the switch contacts for burning or pitting. It’s often a ten-minute fix that saves you a massive headache.

Flotec Submersible Pump Check Valve Repair Kit

For those with deep wells, the dreaded sound of the pump clicking on and off every few minutes—known as short cycling—often points to a single culprit. Deep down in the well, either right on top of the pump or just above it, is a check valve. Its job is to hold the entire column of water in the pipe when the pump shuts off, maintaining pressure in the system. When this valve fails, all that water rushes back down the well, the pressure drops, and the pump has to kick on again.

This constant cycling will destroy a submersible pump motor in short order. A check valve repair kit contains the simple internal parts—usually a new poppet, seal, and spring—to restore its function. The parts are cheap. The hard part is the labor.

Fixing this requires pulling the pump. This is a big job that involves disconnecting the power, removing the well cap, and physically hoisting hundreds of feet of pipe and wire out of the ground. It’s a task you only want to do once, so while you’re down there, it’s wise to replace the check valve even if you’re pulling the pump for another reason. It’s a perfect example of how a tiny, inexpensive part can be absolutely critical to a large, expensive system.

Simmons 100-SB No-Lead Foot Valve Repair Kit

Jet pump systems have their own critical valve at the bottom of the line: the foot valve. This component sits at the very end of the suction pipe down in the well. It serves two purposes: it acts as a check valve to keep the pipe full of water, and it has a screen to filter out sand and debris. If the foot valve leaks, the pump will lose its prime between cycles.

The classic symptom of a failed foot valve is a pump that runs perfectly but has to be re-primed every single time you want to use it. The water in the suction line has simply drained back into the well through the leaky valve. A repair kit for a Simmons foot valve, a common and reliable brass model, contains the rubber gasket and poppet that form the seal.

Like the submersible check valve, the challenge isn’t the repair itself, but the access. You have to pull the suction pipe out of the well to get to the valve. It’s a frustrating job, but it’s the only way to solve the problem for good. Many perfectly good pumps have been replaced because the owner thought the pump was bad, when the real issue was a five-dollar gasket in the foot valve at the bottom of the well.

Tips for Priming Your Pump After a Repair

Anytime you open up the housing on a jet pump or lose pressure in the suction line, you introduce air into the system. An above-ground pump can’t pump air; it needs to be filled with a solid column of water to create suction. This process, called priming, is where many DIY repairs go wrong.

First, always turn off the power to the pump at the breaker. Never work on a pump with the power on. Locate the prime plug, which is usually a square-headed or hex-headed plug on the very top of the pump housing, or "volute." Remove the plug and slowly pour water into the opening using a funnel. The goal is to fill the pump housing and the entire suction line going down to the well.

Be patient. It can take several gallons of water, and you’ll hear air gurgling back up as the water displaces it. Keep filling until the water level stays right at the top of the priming hole. Replace the plug, tightening it securely with thread sealant or tape, and then turn the power back on. It helps to open a nearby faucet a little bit to allow any remaining trapped air to escape the system as the pump builds pressure. If it doesn’t catch the prime on the first try, don’t let it run dry for more than a minute. Turn it off, and repeat the process.

Keeping a few of these essential kits on a shelf in the workshop is one of the smartest investments you can make. It’s not just about saving money on a plumber; it’s about self-reliance. Understanding how your water system works, from the foot valve in the well to the switch on the tank, transforms you from a victim of circumstance into the person who can fix the problem and get the water flowing again.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

What is included in a standard well pump repair kit?

A standard well pump repair kit typically includes replacement mechanical shaft seals, rubber O-rings, gaskets, an impeller, and a diffuser. Some manufacturers also bundle internal wear rings and hardware like set screws. These parts target common mechanical wear areas that cause leaks or pressure loss. If your pump motor hums but fails to turn, look for a kit that specifically includes an impeller wrench to help disassemble tight motor shafts.

What does a well pump pressure switch kit do?

Pressure switch kits restore the electrical contacts and diaphragm mechanism that signal a well pump to turn on and shut off. The kit provides new contact points, tension springs, and a rubber diaphragm to fix burnt contacts or stuck switches. Replacing these parts prevents the pump from short-cycling every few seconds or running continuously until burnout. For safety, always test the wire terminals with a multimeter to verify power is dead before touching switch components.

How do I install a jet well pump repair kit?

Installing a jet well pump repair kit requires disconnecting electrical power, draining the pump housing, separating the motor from the casing, and swapping the worn components. Remove the diffuser and impeller using an open-end wrench, then slide the old mechanical seal off the shaft. Clean all mating surfaces thoroughly before pressing the new seal and rubber O-rings into place. Finally, reassemble the housing, prime the pump casing completely with clean water, and restore power.

How long does it take to rebuild a well pump using a repair kit?

Rebuilding a standard well pump with a repair kit usually takes between one and three hours for an experienced homeowner. Surface-mounted jet pumps sit at the shorter end of that range because they are directly accessible in a basement or pump house. Deep well submersible pumps take significantly longer—often four to six hours—because you must pull hundreds of feet of drop pipe out of the well casing before reaching the pump assembly.

Submersible well pump repair kit vs jet pump kit: which do you need?

Well depth determines whether you need a submersible pump kit or a jet pump kit. Jet pump repair kits service above-ground units that draw water from shallow wells under 25 feet, or up to 110 feet with a two-pipe system. Submersible repair kits service airtight, motor-driven units submerged hundreds of feet underwater inside the well casing. Check the model number stamped on your pump’s metal data plate before buying parts to ensure exact hydraulic fitment.

How much does a DIY well pump repair kit cost?

Most DIY well pump repair kits cost between $25 and $120 depending on the pump brand and included parts. Basic seal and gasket kits fall in the $20 to $40 range, while comprehensive rebuild packages with impellers, diffusers, and bearings run from $70 to $150. By contrast, hiring a licensed well technician to replace those exact parts typically costs between $300 and $800 in total labor and service call fees.

Why is a well pump still losing pressure after installing a repair kit?

Persistent pressure loss after installing a repair kit usually stems from a cracked pressure tank bladder, an air leak in the suction line, or a failed check valve. If the pump seals and impeller are brand new, check the air pressure in your expansion tank using a standard tire gauge. The tank pressure must sit 2 PSI below the pump cut-in pressure. Also inspect your suction line pipe joints with soapy water to detect hidden air leaks.

Is rebuilding an old well pump with a repair kit worth it?

Fixing a well pump with a kit is worth the investment if the pump housing and electrical motor are less than seven to ten years old. A $50 rebuild kit extends the operating life of an otherwise sound pump for several years at a fraction of the cost. However, if the motor windings are burned out, or the cast iron housing is severely corroded, investing $400 to $1,200 in a brand-new pump is more economical long-term.