6 Diy Small Animal Hay Feeder Plans That Prevent Hay Waste

You watch a goat pull a huge mouthful of hay from the rack, take two bites, and drop the rest on the ground to be trampled into the bedding. That isn’t just wasted forage; it’s wasted money and time. For a small farm running on tight margins, controlling hay waste is one of the most practical ways to improve your bottom line and your animals’ health.

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Why Reducing Hay Waste Is Key for Small Farms

The most obvious impact of hay waste is financial. Every flake that gets soiled, trampled, or simply ignored is money straight out of your pocket, and it adds up shockingly fast over a season. For a small operation, turning a 30% waste rate into a 5% waste rate can be the difference between breaking even and turning a small profit on your animals.

But the cost isn’t just monetary. Wasted hay creates a significant health hazard when it gets mixed with manure and urine, becoming a breeding ground for mold, parasites, and harmful bacteria. Animals eating or even just inhaling spores from this soiled bedding are at a higher risk for respiratory issues and digestive upset. A good feeder keeps hay clean, dry, and palatable, directly contributing to herd or flock health.

Finally, consider your own labor. More wasted hay means more frequent and heavier mucking out. It’s more time spent with a pitchfork and wheelbarrow that could be spent on other critical farm tasks. An efficient feeder design streamlines your chores, saving your back and giving you back precious hours in your day.

The PVC Pipe Gravity Feeder for Rabbits & Cavies

This feeder is a marvel of simplicity, perfect for hutch-raised rabbits or cavies (guinea pigs). The design uses a section of wide-diameter PVC pipe, often with a ‘Y’ or ‘T’ junction at the bottom, mounted vertically to the side of the cage. You fill the pipe from the top, and gravity ensures a steady supply of hay is available at the bottom opening for animals to pull from.

Building one requires minimal tools—just a saw to cut the pipe and a drill to create mounting holes. The most critical step is to thoroughly sand all cut edges until they are perfectly smooth. Any sharp or rough plastic edge is a potential source of injury for a small animal’s sensitive mouth and nose.

The main advantage of this design is its ability to hold a full day’s worth of hay while keeping it completely contained and off the cage floor. However, there are tradeoffs. If the hay is packed too tightly or is overly coarse, it can jam inside the pipe, requiring you to clear it. You also need to monitor for chewing; while most animals leave it alone, a persistent chewer could ingest plastic, so it’s not a "set it and forget it" solution for every animal.

Building a Wood and Wire Mesh V-Feeder for Goats

The V-shaped wall feeder is a classic for a reason: it works. By constructing a simple wooden frame that angles inward towards the bottom and covering the front with a sturdy wire mesh, you create a system that forces goats to pull hay through the openings. This simple act prevents them from grabbing massive mouthfuls and dropping half of it.

Construction is straightforward, typically using 2x4s for the frame and plywood for the solid back and sides. The key design choice is the wire mesh.

• Hardware cloth with half-inch squares works for containing finer hays but can be frustrating for animals.
• Welded wire fencing or small-holed cattle panel with 2"x4" openings is often the sweet spot. It’s large enough for them to eat comfortably but small enough to prevent them from pulling their heads through or wasting excessive amounts.

This design dramatically reduces the "head-tossing" waste common with open troughs. Goats can’t easily root through the hay, selecting only the tastiest bits and discarding the rest. For maximum efficiency, build a shallow trough or "catch tray" directly beneath the V-feeder to collect any smaller bits that fall, making them available for a second pass.

Upcycling a 5-Gallon Bucket into a Slow Feeder

For a fast, cheap, and surprisingly effective slow feeder, look no further than a standard 5-gallon bucket. This project is perfect for goats, sheep, or even a mini horse. The idea is to turn the bucket into a puzzle, making the animal work a bit for each bite, which mimics natural grazing behavior and alleviates boredom.

The entire build consists of drilling holes into the side of a food-grade bucket with a hole saw. A 2-inch or 3-inch hole saw bit is usually a good starting point. Drill several holes around the bucket, then use a file or sandpaper to smooth the inside and outside edges of each cut to prevent scrapes. Fill it with hay, put the lid on, and either hang it securely or place it in a corner where it can’t be easily tipped over.

This feeder is incredibly effective at slowing down fast eaters and making a flake of hay last much longer. The primary consideration is safety. You must ensure the holes are not large enough for an animal to get its head, horns, or a foot stuck. The right size depends entirely on your specific animal, so start smaller if you’re unsure.

A Litter Box and Rack Combo for Tidy Hutches

Anyone who has raised rabbits knows they tend to toilet where they eat. Instead of fighting this instinct, you can use it to your advantage with a combination hay rack and litter box. This design keeps the hutch remarkably clean by concentrating the mess in one manageable spot.

The concept is to place a simple hay rack directly above a litter box. The rack itself can be made from a few untreated dowels, a small piece of wire grid from a storage cube, or a custom-built wooden frame with hardware cloth. Mount this rack on the hutch wall so that the rabbit must sit in the litter box below to eat from it.

The benefits are immediate. Hay stays clean and off the floor, and nearly all droppings and urine are contained within the litter box. This makes daily spot-cleaning a quick, one-minute job of scooping the box, rather than a full-hutch affair. It’s arguably the single best improvement you can make for maintaining a sanitary and low-odor rabbit environment.

Constructing a Dowel-Fronted Wooden Hay Manger

A wooden manger with a dowel front is a durable and scalable option that works for a wide range of animals, from rabbits to goats. It’s essentially a three-sided wooden box mounted to a wall, with the open front barred by vertical wooden dowels. This forces the animal to pull hay through the gaps, preventing waste.

The build is simple carpentry. Use untreated lumber like pine to construct the box. The crucial measurement is the spacing between the dowels, which you secure by drilling holes into the top and bottom frame pieces.

• For rabbits or guinea pigs, 1.5 to 2 inches between dowels is ideal.
• For goats or sheep, 3 to 4 inches allows them to eat without getting their heads stuck.

This design is a true workhorse. It’s sturdy enough to withstand years of use from larger animals and can be built to any size you need. A small 12-inch wide version is perfect for a hutch, while a 4-foot long version can serve several goats in a stall. By adding a lid, you can also prevent clever animals from trying to eat from the top down.

Sewing a Simple and Durable Canvas Hay Pouch

Not all feeders need to be made of wood or plastic. For a portable, washable, and surprisingly tough option, a simple canvas hay pouch is an excellent project. These are essentially sturdy fabric bags with a hole for the animal to pull hay from, perfect for use in travel crates, temporary enclosures, or for animals that are prone to bumping into hard feeders.

To make one, you just need a piece of heavy-duty, untreated canvas. Fold it in half and stitch up two sides to create a pouch, then hem the top opening. Cut a window—a 4-inch circle or square is a good start—in the front panel and reinforce the edges with a tight zigzag stitch to prevent fraying. Add grommets or sturdy fabric loops to the top corners for hanging.

The biggest pro is convenience; they are lightweight, easy to store, and can be thrown in the washing machine. The primary consideration is material choice. You must use a very durable, chew-resistant fabric and monitor new animals to ensure they are eating the hay, not the bag itself. For most animals, a thick canvas is unappealing to chew and holds up well.

Feeder Placement and Material Safety Considerations

Building the perfect feeder is only half the battle; where you put it and what you make it from are just as important. Always mount feeders at a natural eating height for your animals. A feeder that is too high or too low can cause neck strain over time. Furthermore, position the feeder away from their water source to prevent hay from getting soaked, which quickly leads to mold.

Material safety is the most important rule. Never use pressure-treated wood for any project that will house or feed animals. The chemicals used to treat the wood are toxic if ingested. Stick to untreated pine, fir, or other safe woods. When using plastics, ensure they are food-grade and watch for signs of chewing. For any wire or mesh, double-check and file down any sharp points or edges left over from cutting.

Finally, remember that no single design is perfect for every animal. The goal is to reduce waste, not to eliminate an animal’s ability to eat comfortably. After you build and install a new feeder, take the time to observe. Are they eating well? Do they seem frustrated? Be prepared to make small modifications—widening a gap, smoothing an edge, or lowering the height—to create a system that works efficiently for both you and your animals.

By investing a little time into a DIY feeder, you’re not just building a project; you’re creating a more sustainable system for your small farm. You’ll save money, improve animal health, and reduce your daily workload—a clear win on every front.