7 Curing Pork Shoulders For Pulled Pork That Grandparents Used to Know

You’ve had modern pulled pork, slow-cooked until it falls apart, but there’s an older, deeper flavor that many have forgotten. Before refrigeration was a given, curing was not a choice for flavor but a necessity for preservation. Learning these old ways unlocks a completely different kind of pulled pork—smoky, savory, and with a ham-like character that is profoundly satisfying.

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Selecting the Right Pork Shoulder for Curing

The foundation of great cured pork is, unsurprisingly, great raw pork. You’re looking for a pork shoulder, often sold as a "Boston butt," ideally weighing between 6 and 10 pounds. A bone-in cut is preferable; the bone adds flavor during the long cooking process and helps the meat hold its shape during the cure.

Look for a piece with a substantial fat cap, at least a quarter-inch thick. This fat is not your enemy. It will render down during smoking, basting the meat and contributing to a moist, rich final product. Don’t be tempted to trim it all away before you start.

If you’re raising your own pigs, you already know the value of heritage breeds. A Berkshire or Tamworth shoulder will have superior marbling and a richer flavor that stands up beautifully to the curing and smoking process. But even a good-quality shoulder from a local butcher will work wonders. The key is to start with well-raised meat, as the cure will only concentrate its existing character.

The Classic Salt Box Method for a Dry Cure

A dry cure is the most traditional method, relying on direct contact between the cure mixture and the meat. You don’t need fancy equipment, just a non-reactive container (like a food-grade plastic tub or large ceramic crock) big enough to hold the shoulder with some room to spare. The goal is to draw moisture out of the meat, concentrating its flavor and making it inhospitable to bacteria.

The basic dry cure mix is a simple ratio of salt, sugar, and a curing agent. For every 5 pounds of pork, a good starting point is:

• 1/2 cup kosher salt
• 1/4 cup brown sugar
• 2 teaspoons Prague powder #1 (also called pink curing salt #1)

Using Prague powder #1 is non-negotiable for safety. It contains sodium nitrite, which prevents the growth of botulism bacteria during the long, low-temperature curing and smoking process. Mix your ingredients thoroughly, then rub the mixture generously over every single surface of the pork shoulder, working it into any crevices. Place the shoulder in your container, sprinkle any remaining cure over the top, cover it, and get it into the refrigerator.

Submersion Brining for Deep Flavor Infusion

The alternative to a dry cure is a wet cure, or brining. This involves completely submerging the pork shoulder in a saltwater solution. Brining can result in a slightly juicier final product and can sometimes penetrate the meat more quickly and evenly than a dry cure, especially for an oddly shaped cut.

A typical brine follows a similar principle to the dry cure, just dissolved in water. For one gallon of water, you might use 1 cup of kosher salt, 1/2 cup of brown sugar, and 4 teaspoons of Prague powder #1. It’s crucial to let the brine cool completely to refrigerator temperature before adding the meat.

The main tradeoff here is space. A 10-pound shoulder submerged in a gallon or two of water takes up a significant amount of refrigerator real estate, which is a real consideration on a small farmstead. You must also ensure the meat stays fully submerged; a dinner plate or a zip-top bag filled with more brine can work as a weight. If any part of the meat is exposed to air, it won’t cure properly.

Using Heritage Spices like Juniper and Bay

Salt and sugar are for preservation, but the real character comes from the other aromatics. This is where you can connect to older traditions. Think about the spices that were common in a smokehouse larder before global supply chains made everything available year-round.

Spices should be whole, not ground. Toasting them briefly in a dry pan before adding them to your cure mix will awaken their essential oils and deepen their flavor. A classic, robust blend for a cured shoulder includes:

• Black peppercorns
• Juniper berries
• Bay leaves, crumbled
• Whole cloves
• Mustard seeds

Don’t overdo it. The goal is to complement the pork, not overwhelm it. For a single shoulder, a tablespoon of peppercorns and juniper, along with a half-dozen bay leaves and a teaspoon of cloves, is plenty. These flavors meld with the smoke and the pork’s natural richness to create something truly complex.

The Overhauling Process During a Long Cure

Curing isn’t a "set it and forget it" process. As the cure works, it draws liquid out of the meat, which then mixes with the salt and sugar to form its own brine at the bottom of the container. If left alone, the bottom of the shoulder will be much saltier and more intensely cured than the top.

This is why "overhauling" is so important. Every two to three days, you need to pull the shoulder out of its container, turn it over, and rub the accumulated juices all over it. This simple step redistributes the cure and ensures every part of the meat is treated evenly. It also gives you a chance to inspect the meat and make sure everything looks and smells right—it should smell clean and salty, never sour or off.

For a typical 8-pound bone-in shoulder, a cure of 7 to 10 days is about right. A good rule of thumb is roughly 1.5 days of curing time per inch of thickness at the thickest part. Consistent overhauling is the secret to a perfectly cured piece of meat.

Rinsing and Air-Drying to Form a Pellicle

Once the curing time is complete, the pork shoulder will be firm to the touch and a deeper, richer color. But it’s also covered in a layer of intensely salty slush. You must rinse this off thoroughly under cold running water. Pat it completely dry with paper towels.

The next step is crucial for getting a great smoky flavor. You need to let the shoulder air-dry in the refrigerator, uncovered, for at least 12 hours, and up to 24. Place it on a wire rack set over a tray to allow for air circulation on all sides.

During this time, the surface of the meat will become dry and slightly tacky. This tacky surface is called a pellicle. A well-formed pellicle is the key to a beautiful, mahogany-colored smoked finish, as it provides the ideal surface for the smoke to adhere to. Skipping this step often results in a splotchy, uneven color.

Low-and-Slow Smoking the Cured Pork Shoulder

Smoking a cured shoulder is different from smoking a fresh one. The meat is already preserved, so your primary goals are to gently cook it to tenderness and infuse it with smoke flavor. Low and slow is the only way to go. Aim for a smoker temperature between 225°F and 250°F.

Wood choice matters. Hickory is the classic for a reason—its strong, savory smoke is a perfect match for cured pork. Fruitwoods like apple or cherry offer a milder, sweeter smoke that also works beautifully. Avoid intensely flavored woods like mesquite, which can easily overpower the nuanced flavors from the cure.

You’ll smoke the shoulder until it reaches an internal temperature of around 203°F, the point where the connective tissues have broken down enough for shredding. This can take anywhere from 8 to 12 hours, depending on the size of the shoulder and the consistency of your smoker’s temperature. Be patient. This isn’t a process you can rush.

Finishing and Shredding the Cured Smoked Pork

After hours in the smoker, the shoulder needs to rest. Tent it loosely with foil and let it sit for at least an hour, or even two. This allows the juices to redistribute throughout the meat, ensuring it doesn’t dry out the moment you start shredding it.

When you shred the meat, you’ll notice it has a pinkish, ham-like hue from the curing salt. The flavor will be different, too—saltier and more complex than standard pulled pork. Because of this, you need to adjust your finishing sauce accordingly.

Avoid salty, soy-based BBQ sauces. A simple, sharp, vinegar-based sauce or a sweeter, mustard-based Carolina-style sauce is a much better fit. These acidic or sweet notes will cut through the richness and balance the saltiness of the cured meat perfectly. Serve it on simple buns to let the unique flavor of the pork be the star.

This method is more than a recipe; it’s a technique that connects you to a more resourceful past. It takes time and attention, but the result is a product with a depth of flavor that simply cannot be replicated with modern shortcuts. You’re not just making dinner; you’re practicing the art of preservation.