7 Used Disc Harrow Buying Tips That Old-Timers Trust

You’ve found it: a used disc harrow sitting by a barn, a bit of rust on the blades but a price tag that looks too good to be true. A good used disc is a cornerstone tool for a small farm, saving you time and money breaking ground for a food plot or garden. But a bad one is a yard ornament that bleeds your wallet dry and never turns a single clod of dirt.

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Inspect the Frame for Cracks, Bends, and Welds

The frame is the backbone of the entire implement. If it’s compromised, nothing else matters. Start by looking at the main beams and tongue, sighting down them to spot any obvious bends or twists.

A bent frame is a deal-breaker. It means the harrow took a massive hit, probably against a rock or stump, and it will never pull straight or till evenly again. You’ll fight it every time you use it.

Pay close attention to weld points, especially where the gangs attach to the frame. Look for hairline cracks in the metal next to the original factory welds. Also, look for sloppy, thick "bubblegum" repair welds—they’re a sure sign of a hard life and a patch job that’s likely to fail. A clean, professional repair might be acceptable, but a bad one is a ticking time bomb.

Examine Disc Blades for Wear, Chips, and Cracks

The discs do the work, and replacing them is the single most expensive repair you can face. Don’t just glance at them; measure them. A new 18-inch disc blade might be worn down to 15 inches, drastically reducing its ability to cut and roll the soil.

Look at the condition of the edges. The "scallops" on a notched disc should be distinct and sharp, not worn down into smooth, gentle waves. Check for large chips, deep gouges, or cracks radiating from the center bolt hole. A single broken disc can throw the whole gang out of balance and lead to more damage.

Think of disc life in percentages. If the blades look 50% worn, you have 50% of their life left. Factor that into the price. A harrow with nearly new blades is worth significantly more than an identical one with blades that look like worn-out dinner plates.

Shake the Gangs to Test for Worn Bearings

This is the most important hands-on test you can do. A "gang" is the entire assembly of discs, spacers, and the axle bolt. Grab the end of a gang assembly and try to shake it up, down, and side-to-side.

There should be virtually no movement or clunking. If you can feel a distinct "thunk-thunk" or see more than a tiny bit of play, the bearings are shot. Do this for every gang on the harrow, as one might be fine while another is completely worn out.

Replacing gang bearings is not a simple task. It’s a greasy, heavy job that often requires a hydraulic press and special tools to get the old ones out and the new ones in. Worn bearings are a major red flag because they will fail, usually at the worst possible time in the middle of your field. This repair alone can easily exceed the cost of a cheap harrow.

Inspect Gang Bolts and Spacers for Bends or Cracks

While you’re checking the bearings, sight down the gang bolt—the long threaded rod that holds all the discs and spacers together. It should be perfectly straight. A bent gang bolt is a sign of a catastrophic impact that likely damaged other components as well.

Next, look closely at the heavy cast iron spools, or "spacers," between each disc blade. These maintain the correct spacing and take a lot of abuse. They are brittle and can crack if the harrow hits a large rock. A cracked spacer will allow the whole gang to flex and loosen, putting immense stress on the bearings and the bolt.

Replacing a gang bolt and spacers is another time-consuming job that requires a complete teardown of the gang. It’s not as expensive as new discs, but it’s a significant repair. If you see a bent bolt or multiple cracked spacers, be prepared for a major project.

Check for Missing or Damaged Disc Scrapers

Disc scrapers are simple, adjustable metal blades that keep mud and plant debris from building up on the concave side of the discs. They are absolutely essential for working in anything but bone-dry, sandy soil. Without them, the disc will "cake up" and stop turning, and you’ll just be dragging a heavy anchor through your field.

Walk around the harrow and count the scrapers. Is every disc accounted for? Often, they get bent, broken, or rusted off over the years. Check their condition—are they worn to a thin sliver or bent so far away they don’t do anything?

The good news is that scrapers are relatively cheap and easy to replace. However, if most of them are missing or mangled, it’s another item to add to your budget and your to-do list. It also tells you something about how the previous owner maintained their equipment.

For Pull-Types: Check Tires and Hydraulic Hoses

If you’re looking at a larger pull-type harrow with transport wheels, don’t get so focused on the discs that you forget the parts that get it to the field. Start with the tires. Look for deep cracks from dry rot, especially on the sidewalls. A tire that holds air in the seller’s yard might not survive a trip down a bumpy farm lane.

Next, trace the hydraulic hoses from the cylinder to the tractor hookups. Bend them and look for small cracks in the outer rubber casing. Check for bulges, which indicate a weakness in the hose wall, and look for any signs of fluid leaks around the metal fittings.

A new set of tires and hydraulic hoses can add hundreds of dollars to your total cost. A blowout or a burst hose isn’t just an inconvenience; it can be a serious safety hazard. Don’t underestimate the cost and effort required to make the transport system safe and reliable.

Ensure the Gang Angle Adjustments Aren’t Seized

The ability to change the angle of the disc gangs is what makes a harrow so versatile. A slight angle provides light tillage, while a steep angle allows for aggressive cutting. This adjustment is usually made with a simple pin-and-hole system or a large lever.

Try to move it. If the adjustment mechanism is rusted solid, you’ve lost a primary feature of the tool. You might be able to free it with a lot of penetrating oil, heat, and a very big hammer, but there’s no guarantee. Sometimes, they are seized so badly they have to be cut apart.

If you can’t adjust the angle, you’re stuck with whatever setting it’s in now. That might be fine for one specific task, but it severely limits the harrow’s usefulness for different soil conditions or for making a finishing pass. Make sure this critical function actually functions.

Weighing Repair Costs Against the Asking Price

A "cheap" disc harrow can quickly become the most expensive one you ever buy. Before you hand over any cash, stand back and make an honest list of everything that needs fixing. Be brutally realistic.

Get on your phone and do a quick search for the cost of parts. How much for a new set of disc blades? A set of gang bearings? Two new tires? Add it all up. Don’t forget to account for things like new bolts, grease, and paint if you plan on a full refurbishment.

Now, add the asking price to your total parts cost. Is the final number still a good deal compared to a similar harrow in better condition? Most importantly, be honest about the value of your own time. If you enjoy a winter project, a fixer-upper can be rewarding. But if you need to break ground next weekend, it’s almost always smarter to pay more upfront for a well-maintained, field-ready implement.

A used disc harrow is a fantastic investment for the small-scale farmer, but you’re always buying its history along with its steel. A thorough, 15-minute inspection using these tips will tell you everything you need to know. It ensures you’re bringing home a reliable workhorse, not somebody else’s abandoned problems.