6 Best Fence Splices For Electric Netting Old Farmers Swear By

There’s nothing quite like the sinking feeling of seeing your chickens scattered across the neighbor’s lawn or your sheep happily munching on your prize-winning squash. More often than not, the culprit is a failed splice in your electric netting, a tiny point of failure that creates a massive headache. A good splice isn’t just about reconnecting a broken line; it’s about maintaining the electrical integrity that keeps your animals in and predators out.

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Why a Solid Splice Matters for Your Netting

A fence is only as strong as its weakest link, and for electric netting, that weak link is almost always a poorly made splice. It’s not just about the physical connection. A sloppy twist or a loose knot creates electrical resistance, which acts like a dimmer switch for your fence’s shock.

That resistance chokes the flow of electricity. The result is a weak pulse on the far end of the fence, one that a determined predator or a woolly sheep will barely notice. Worse, that resistance forces your energizer to work harder, draining your battery faster and putting unnecessary strain on the unit. A solid, clean splice ensures maximum voltage travels the full length of your fence line, presenting a convincing psychological barrier to your livestock.

Think of it this way: every minute spent chasing escaped animals is a minute you’re not spending on something more productive. A failed splice can turn a peaceful morning into a frantic, frustrating fire drill. Mastering a few reliable splicing techniques is one of the most valuable time-saving skills a small-scale farmer can possess.

The Simple Overlap Weave for Quick Field Fixes

Sometimes, you just need to get the fence hot again, right now. A deer might have crashed through the line, or you snagged it with the mower. For these moments, the Simple Overlap Weave is your best friend for a fast, temporary fix.

To make the weave, overlap the two broken ends of a horizontal strand by about six inches. Then, simply weave the individual metal-infused poly strands from one side through the strands of the other, back and forth, three or four times. The goal is to create as much metal-to-metal contact as possible. Tug it gently to seat the weave.

Let’s be clear: this is not a permanent solution. It’s a field-expedient repair designed to get you through the day, especially useful when moving portable fences for rotational grazing. The physical connection is only fair, and it can loosen over time. Plan to replace it with a more robust splice when you have a few extra minutes.

The Pigtail Twist for a Strong Connection

When you need something more secure than a weave but don’t have special tools on hand, the Pigtail Twist is a reliable step up. This method creates a much better electrical connection and has decent physical strength, making it a great all-around choice for semi-permanent repairs.

Start by carefully separating the poly and metal filaments on each broken end, going back about three or four inches. A pocketknife can help tease them apart. Bunch the tiny metal filaments from one side together and do the same for the other. Now, twist these two bundles of metal filaments together tightly, just like you would with electrical wires, creating a "pigtail."

For added strength, you can now take the remaining non-conductive poly strands and tie them in a simple, tight square knot around the metal splice. This knot takes the physical strain off the electrical connection, preventing the delicate filaments from breaking under tension. This two-part approach—one part for electrical flow, one for physical strength—is what makes this splice so effective.

Using Litzclip Connectors for a No-Knot Splice

If you value speed and certainty over traditional knot-tying, then Litzclip connectors are a game-changer. These are small, purpose-built metal connectors that create a perfect splice every time, with no guesswork involved. They are the modern, foolproof answer to broken netting.

The process is incredibly simple. You open the hinged metal plate, lay the two ends of the broken conductor inside, and clamp it shut with a pair of pliers. Sharp teeth inside the Litzclip pierce the poly coating and bite directly into the metal filaments, creating a secure mechanical and electrical bond. It takes less than 30 seconds and provides a connection that’s often better than a hand-tied knot.

The tradeoff, of course, is cost and preparation. You have to buy the clips and have them on hand when a break occurs. For someone who moves fences frequently or manages multiple netting systems, keeping a handful of these in a pocket or toolbox is a wise investment that pays for itself in saved time and frustration.

Tying the Figure-Eight Bend for Peak Durability

For a splice that is absolutely bombproof and relies on pure skill, look no further than the Figure-Eight Bend. Borrowed from the worlds of climbing and sailing, this knot is designed to hold under extreme tension and will not slip, making it ideal for high-stress points in your fence line.

To tie it, take one of the broken horizontal lines and form a loop, creating a simple figure-eight knot but don’t tighten it. Then, take the end of the other broken line and thread it back through the figure-eight, perfectly tracing the path of the first line in reverse. When you slowly pull all four strands, the knot will tighten into a symmetrical and incredibly strong bend.

This knot’s primary advantage is its immense physical strength; it actually tightens under load. It also creates decent electrical contact as the filaments are pressed tightly together. While it takes a little practice to master, knowing how to tie it means you can create a permanent, reliable splice anytime, anywhere, with no tools required.

The Conductor Splice for Joining Net to Polywire

A common task is connecting a roll of electric netting to a different type of fence, like a lead-out wire made of polywire or a more permanent high-tensile fence. Simply twisting these different materials together is a recipe for failure. You need a dedicated connector to bridge the gap effectively.

The fine filaments in netting and the thicker wires in polywire or steel wire have different electrical properties and corrode at different rates. A simple twist will create a point of high resistance almost immediately. Instead, use a purpose-built connector to ensure a solid, lasting connection.

• Split-bolt connectors are excellent for joining netting to high-tensile or steel wire.
• Poly-to-poly connectors use metal plates to clamp different types of poly-conductors together securely.

Using the right piece of hardware for the job is non-negotiable here. It prevents voltage loss at a critical transition point and ensures your entire fence system performs as it should. Don’t let a mismatched connection compromise your whole setup.

Using Crimp Sleeves for a Permanent Connection

When you need a splice that is absolutely permanent and as strong as the original line, the crimp sleeve is the professional’s choice. This method creates a seamless mechanical and electrical bond that you can truly set and forget. It’s perfect for repairing a main perimeter fence that won’t be moved.

The process involves sliding a small, soft metal tube—the crimp sleeve—over one end of the broken conductor. You then insert the other broken end into the sleeve from the opposite direction, overlapping them inside. Using a special crimping tool, you squeeze the sleeve in two or three places, deforming the metal and cold-welding the conductors inside into a single, solid unit.

This is overkill for temporary paddocks, as it requires a dedicated tool and the sleeves themselves. But for a section of fence that has been repeatedly broken or for a crucial boundary line, the unparalleled reliability of a crimped connection provides ultimate peace of mind. It completely eliminates the splice as a potential point of failure.

Testing Your Splices for Maximum Effectiveness

A splice isn’t finished just because it looks good. The only way to know for sure if you’ve made a solid electrical connection is to test it. A good-looking knot can still be a power-sucking resistor if the metal filaments aren’t making proper contact.

Use a digital fault finder or a simple fence tester to check your work. First, get a voltage reading about a foot before your splice. Then, take another reading a foot after the splice. On a well-made splice, the voltage drop should be minimal—less than 200-300 volts.

If you see a significant drop, say from 7,000 volts to 5,500 volts across just a few inches of fence, your splice is failing electrically. It’s robbing your fence of its power. Don’t just live with it; take a moment to re-do the connection properly. This simple quality-control step is what separates a truly effective electric fence from a frustratingly mediocre one.

Ultimately, the right splice is the one that fits the situation—a quick weave for a daily move, or a permanent crimp for a perimeter break. Mastering a few of these techniques transforms you from someone who just uses electric netting into someone who truly understands it. It’s a small skill that pays huge dividends in reliability, security, and the simple satisfaction of a job done right.