6 Diy Trough Feeders For Pigs On a Homestead Budget

Anyone who has raised pigs knows they can be incredibly hard on equipment, especially feeders. A store-bought feeder can be a significant expense, and often isn’t built to withstand the abuse a few determined hogs can dish out. Building your own feeder not only saves money but allows you to create something perfectly suited to your setup and your animals.

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Why Build Your Own Pig Feeder on the Homestead?

Building your own pig feeder is about more than just saving a few dollars. It’s about control and durability. Commercial feeders are often designed with a specific type of operation in mind, which may not match your small-scale, pasture-based system. A DIY feeder can be built with the materials you have on hand, sized for the number of pigs you’re raising, and reinforced where you know it needs it most.

Pigs are powerful and curious. They will push, lift, and try to stand in any feeder you provide. A flimsy plastic trough won’t last a week. By building your own, you can use heavier, more robust materials like hardwood, steel, or even concrete blocks to create something that stays put and stands up to daily wear and tear.

Furthermore, a custom-built feeder can be designed to minimize feed waste. You can adjust the height, depth, and shape to discourage pigs from rooting feed out onto the ground. This direct control over design means less money wasted on spilled grain and a cleaner paddock for your animals.

The Classic 55-Gallon Drum Halved Trough

This is one of the most common and effective DIY feeders for a reason: it’s simple, cheap, and tough. You take a food-grade 55-gallon plastic or steel drum and cut it in half lengthwise. A plastic drum is easier to cut with a reciprocating saw, while a steel drum requires a grinder with a cutting wheel.

Once cut, the edges will be sharp and must be smoothed or covered. For plastic, a file or heat gun can soften the edge. For steel, grinding the edge smooth is essential. To prevent the pigs from flipping it, you can either build a simple wooden frame to cradle the half-drum or stake it directly to the ground using rebar driven through holes drilled in the lip.

The main considerations here are the source and the finish. Always use a food-grade drum that previously held something non-toxic, like juice concentrate or molasses. A drum that held industrial chemicals is not safe for animal feed, no matter how well you clean it. The durability is excellent, but an un-staked trough is just a toy for a bored pig.

Repurposing an Old Bathtub for a Pig Feeder

An old cast iron or enamel steel bathtub makes a fantastic, nearly indestructible pig trough. They are heavy enough that even large hogs have trouble moving them, and the smooth, sloped surface is incredibly easy to clean out with a hose. You can often find them for free or very cheap during home renovations.

The primary challenge is logistics. A cast iron tub is immensely heavy and requires serious effort to move into place. Once it’s there, it’s not going anywhere, so choose your spot wisely. Also, inspect the enamel surface for any large chips. While small chips aren’t a major issue, large areas of exposed, rusting metal can leach into the feed and are harder to keep clean.

This solution is ideal for a semi-permanent feeding station, especially for a larger group of pigs. Its sheer mass is its greatest asset. Just be sure to plug the drain hole securely, either with the original hardware or by filling it with concrete, to prevent feed and water from seeping out.

Building a Cinder Block and Plywood Feeder

For a truly custom, heavy-duty trough, cinder blocks and plywood offer a great solution. You simply lay two parallel rows of cinder blocks to the desired length and height, then construct a V-shaped or U-shaped trough insert from thick plywood that rests on top. The weight of the blocks holds everything in place.

The key to making this design last is protecting the wood. The plywood insert must be sealed to prevent moisture from the feed and weather from causing rot. Use a non-toxic, waterproof sealant or line the trough with a durable material like a cut piece of rubber roofing liner. This also makes the surface non-porous and much easier to scrub clean.

This feeder is highly customizable. You can make it as long as you need for your herd and adjust the height by adding or removing a layer of blocks. It’s an excellent weekend project that results in a permanent, immovable feeding station that will last for years with minimal maintenance.

Assembling a Simple PVC Pipe Gravity Trough

While not a traditional open trough, a gravity feeder made from PVC pipe is an excellent choice for reducing waste and protecting feed from the elements. This design is best for smaller groups of pigs or for providing pelleted feed. The most common design involves a large-diameter vertical pipe (6" or 8") for the reservoir, connected to a "J" or "U" shaped trough section at the bottom where the pigs eat.

The concept is simple: as pigs eat the feed from the bottom opening, more flows down from the reservoir to replace it. This keeps the bulk of the feed contained, dry, and clean. You can easily add a cap to the top of the reservoir to keep out rain and rodents. The entire unit can be strapped to a sturdy fence post or the side of a shelter.

The main tradeoff is the type of feed it can handle. This design works best with dry, uniform pellets or crumbles. Moist, sticky, or coarse-ground feeds can bridge inside the pipe and stop flowing. It’s also crucial to monitor the trough section to ensure it doesn’t become clogged with mud or manure, which would prevent the feed from dispensing.

Constructing a V-Shaped Treated Lumber Trough

A classic wooden V-shaped trough is an efficient and time-tested design. The angled sides use gravity to keep feed settled in the bottom, making it easy for pigs to eat without being able to easily root it out onto the ground. Building one requires basic carpentry skills and some sturdy lumber.

The choice of wood is the most important consideration. While pressure-treated lumber is rot-resistant, older types contained arsenic and are not safe for feeders. Use modern, non-toxic treated lumber (like ACQ) or, even better, a naturally rot-resistant wood like cedar or white oak. If you must use standard pine, plan on sealing it thoroughly with a food-safe sealant and expect to replace it sooner.

To increase longevity and prevent flipping, build integrated "feet" or skids that extend perpendicular to the trough. This wide base makes it very difficult for even a large pig to tip over. This design is a great balance between portability and stability, perfect for rotational grazing systems where the feeder needs to be moved periodically.

Using an IBC Tote Base for a Large Capacity Feeder

Intermediate Bulk Containers (IBC totes) are large plastic tanks inside a metal cage, and they can be repurposed into fantastic high-capacity feeders. For this project, you only need the plastic tank. By cutting the tank horizontally about a foot from the bottom, you create a wide, durable, and deep trough.

The process is straightforward but requires care. Use a reciprocating saw or jigsaw to make the cut, then thoroughly sand or file the cut edge to remove any sharp plastic burrs. The resulting trough is lightweight but incredibly tough. For stability, you can build a simple wooden frame for it to sit in or bolt it directly to a heavy skid made of 4x4s.

Like with plastic drums, it is absolutely critical to source a tote that held food-grade materials. Common examples include glucose, vegetable oil, or vinegar. Never use a tote that contained pesticides, herbicides, or industrial chemicals. The label on the side of the tote will tell you its previous contents; if you can’t be sure, don’t use it.

Feeder Placement and Cleaning Best Practices

Where you put your feeder is just as important as what it’s made of. Place the feeder on the highest, driest ground available in the paddock. This prevents it from becoming a muddy mess where feed gets trampled and wasted. If you can, create a simple concrete or gravel pad for the feeder to sit on.

Keep the feeder a good distance away from the pigs’ watering area and their preferred wallow. Pigs will inevitably drip water and sling mud, and you want to keep your feed as clean and dry as possible. Placing it near their shelter but away from their dunging area is often a good compromise.

Finally, a feeder is only as good as its cleaning schedule. Dirty, moldy feed can make pigs sick. Regardless of the design, your trough should be cleaned regularly. Scrape out any old, caked-on feed and scrub the trough periodically with a stiff brush and water. A clean feeder promotes healthy animals and ensures they are getting the full nutritional value from their food.

Ultimately, the best DIY pig feeder is one that is safe for your animals, minimizes waste, and stands up to their destructive nature without breaking your budget. By using readily available materials and a bit of ingenuity, you can build a solution that serves your homestead well for many seasons. The right feeder makes chores easier and keeps your pigs healthier, which is a win-win on any farm.