6 Pheasant Chick Brooding Temperatures That Prevent Common Issues

Disclosure: As an Amazon Associate, this site earns from qualifying purchases. Thank you!

Essential Brooder Setup for Temperature Control

Before you even think about numbers on a thermometer, your brooder’s physical setup must allow for proper temperature management. The goal isn’t to make the entire space a uniform temperature; it’s to create a heat gradient. This means a hot spot directly under your heat source and progressively cooler zones as the chicks move away from it. This allows them to self-regulate by choosing the temperature that’s right for them.

A simple draft shield is non-negotiable, especially for the first couple of weeks. A ring of cardboard a foot or two high surrounding the brooder area prevents floor-level drafts from chilling the chicks. Drafts are a silent killer, undoing all the work your heat lamp is doing. Ensure your brooder is large enough for chicks to get away from the heat but not so vast they can get lost and chilled in a corner.

Your choice of heat source matters. A traditional red heat lamp is excellent for creating a wide, warm circle and a natural gradient. A radiant heat plate, which chicks huddle under like a mother hen, is safer from a fire perspective but creates a more concentrated warm zone. Whichever you use, place a reliable thermometer on the bedding directly under the heat source to get an accurate reading where the chicks actually live, not three feet up in the air.

Week 1: 95°F to Prevent Chilling and Piling

The first week is the most critical period in a pheasant chick’s life. They have just hatched and possess almost no ability to regulate their own body temperature. Your primary job is to provide a stable, warm environment that mimics the heat of a mother bird.

Aim for a floor-level temperature of 95°F (35°C) directly under the heat lamp. This intense warmth is essential to prevent chilling, which leads to a cascade of problems. Chilled chicks become lethargic, stop eating and drinking, and will instinctively pile on top of each other for warmth. This piling behavior is the number one cause of brooder mortality, as the chicks on the bottom can easily suffocate.

A proper 95°F hot spot prevents this desperate huddling. It also helps reduce the incidence of "pasty butt," where droppings stick to and block the chick’s vent. This condition is often caused by the stress of being too hot or, more commonly, too cold. By providing the right heat, you give them the best possible start, encouraging them to eat, drink, and grow without unnecessary stress.

Week 2: Lowering Heat to 90°F for Acclimation

As your chicks enter their second week, they are growing rapidly and beginning to develop a bit more resilience. Now is the time for the first small, deliberate reduction in heat. Lowering the brooder temperature is a signal to their bodies to start adapting.

Reduce the temperature under the heat source to 90°F (32°C). The easiest way to do this is by raising the heat lamp a few inches. Make this change and then watch the chicks’ behavior closely. They should still spend time under the lamp but also venture out more frequently to eat and drink.

This gradual step-down is crucial for acclimation. A sudden, drastic drop in temperature would be a shock to their system, but this five-degree reduction encourages them to rely a little less on the artificial heat. It’s the first step in preparing them for a life with natural temperature fluctuations.

Week 3: A Gradual Drop to 85°F for Feathering

By week three, you’ll see a noticeable change in your chicks. Their initial downy fluff is being replaced by their first real feathers, especially on their wings and tail. These feathers provide a small but meaningful amount of insulation, which means they need less supplemental heat.

This week, you’ll lower the temperature to 85°F (29°C). This continued reduction works in tandem with their natural development. As they grow their own "jacket," you reduce the artificial heat, prompting their bodies to continue the feathering process efficiently. Keeping the brooder too warm at this stage can actually slow down their natural drive to feather out.

At 85°F, you should see even more activity. The chicks will be more confident exploring the cooler edges of the brooder, scratching in the bedding, and interacting with each other. This is exactly the behavior you want to see, as it signals they are healthy, comfortable, and developing properly.

Week 4: Reducing to 80°F to Encourage Foraging

Your pheasant chicks are now looking less like fluffy balls and more like miniature versions of adult birds. Their feathering is well underway, and their natural instincts are kicking in. Lowering the heat this week is less about basic survival and more about encouraging robust, natural behavior.

Drop the temperature to a target of 80°F (27°C). This cooler environment actively discourages them from lazily sitting under the heat lamp all day. It pushes them to move, to be active, and to spend more time foraging for food and water. This is a critical step in building strong legs and a healthy appetite.

Think of this temperature drop as a nudge toward self-sufficiency. Birds that are kept overly warm for too long can become dependent and less resilient. By making them "work" a little to stay comfortable through movement and eating, you are building a tougher, healthier bird that will be better prepared for life outside the brooder.

Week 5: Hardening Off at 75°F for Toughness

This week is all about preparing the chicks for the real world. The process is often called "hardening off," and it’s designed to acclimate their bodies to the temperature swings they will soon face. Their feathers should now be providing significant insulation.

Lower the heat source to maintain a temperature of around 75°F (24°C). This is getting close to a warm, stable room temperature. On particularly warm, calm days, you might even consider turning the heat lamp off for a few hours, as long as the ambient brooder temperature doesn’t dip below 70°F.

This step is vital for building toughness. A bird raised in a perfectly climate-controlled environment will be extremely fragile when moved outdoors. Exposing them to this milder, more variable temperature strengthens their system and ensures the transition to their outdoor pen won’t be a dangerous shock.

Week 6: 70°F Final Step Before Outdoor Transition

By the sixth week, your pheasants should be fully feathered and quite resilient. The heat lamp is now less of a life-support system and more of a minor comfort. The goal is to match the brooder temperature as closely as possible to the expected outdoor temperature.

Aim for a brooder temperature of 70°F (21°C), or simply turn the heat lamp off entirely unless your nights are particularly cold. At this point, the lamp is only there to prevent chilling during a sudden cold snap. The chicks should be perfectly comfortable without it during the day.

This final stage makes the move outdoors seamless. When they finally step into their flight pen or coop, their bodies will already be accustomed to the ambient temperature. This dramatically reduces the stress of the move, which in turn prevents issues like piling, disease, and "stacking" in the corners of their new home.

Observing Chick Behavior to Fine-Tune Heat

While thermometers and weekly schedules are excellent guides, your most important tool is your own observation. The chicks will tell you everything you need to know about their comfort level. Learn to read the birds, not just the thermometer.

A perfectly comfortable flock will be spread evenly throughout the brooder. Some will be sleeping under the lamp, others will be eating or drinking, and some will be exploring the cooler areas. You’ll hear quiet, contented peeps. This is the picture of success.

Look for these clear warning signs and adjust accordingly:

• Too Cold: Chicks are huddled tightly in a ball directly under the heat lamp. They will be chirping loudly and with a distressed tone. If you see this, lower the lamp immediately.
• Too Hot: Chicks are as far away from the heat source as possible, pressed against the brooder walls. They may be panting with their beaks open or holding their wings out from their bodies. If you see this, raise the lamp.

Ultimately, the numbers are a starting point. A drafty barn might require more heat, while a calm, insulated garage might require less. Trust what the chicks are telling you with their behavior over any rigid schedule. Adjusting your heat lamp up or down a few inches based on their actions is the true art of successful brooding.

Mastering brooder temperatures isn’t about hitting an exact number; it’s about providing a gradient of choice and responding to your birds’ needs. By following this weekly guide as a baseline and fine-tuning it with careful observation, you can prevent the most common brooding problems. You’ll raise pheasant chicks that are not just surviving, but thriving, ready for a healthy and robust life outside the brooder.