6 Feeding Bees During Dearth Periods for a Resilient Hive

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Identifying Dearth and Why Supplemental Feeding Matters

A dearth is simply a period when there’s a lack of natural nectar or pollen. Most new beekeepers think of this as a winter-only problem, but a summer dearth is often more dangerous. It can strike in the middle of July or August when populations are at their peak and the colony’s food consumption is highest.

Look for the signs. Foraging traffic at the entrance will drop dramatically, and you’ll see less pollen coming in. The bees’ temperament can shift from docile to defensive in a matter of days. You might also witness robbing, where bees from stronger hives attack weaker ones to steal their stores. This is a clear signal that resources are scarce.

Ignoring a dearth, especially in late summer, can be catastrophic. A queen will stop laying to conserve resources, leading to a dwindling population of young bees just when the hive needs to build its winter cluster. Supplemental feeding isn’t about creating lazy bees; it’s a strategic intervention to bridge a nutritional gap, ensuring the colony has the strength and numbers to survive the coming winter.

Using 1:1 Sugar Syrup for Nectar Stimulation

When you want to encourage a queen to lay, 1:1 sugar syrup is your tool. This mixture, made of one part sugar to one part water by weight or volume, closely mimics the consistency of natural nectar. It’s a powerful stimulant, not a long-term food source.

The purpose here is to trick the colony into thinking a nectar flow has started. The influx of "nectar" signals to the queen that resources are abundant, prompting her to increase her egg-laying rate. This is incredibly useful in early spring to build up the workforce ahead of the main honey flow or after a summer dearth to raise the crucial "winter bees."

However, timing is everything. Feeding 1:1 syrup when your honey supers are on is a mistake, as the bees will store it, contaminating your honey harvest. Think of it as a short-term boost for brood production. Its primary role is population building, not creating winter stores.

Applying 2:1 Sugar Syrup for Winter Stores

When autumn arrives and the nectar flow ends for good, the hive’s needs change. The goal is no longer stimulation; it’s about packing on weight for the long winter ahead. This is where a heavy 2:1 sugar syrup—two parts sugar to one part water—comes into play.

This thick syrup is less work for the bees to process and store. They don’t have to expend as much energy fanning their wings to dehydrate it into "honey" for their winter pantry. The objective is simple: fill the empty cells in the brood boxes with enough food to last until spring. A well-prepared hive should feel heavy when you try to tip it from the back.

Be careful not to start feeding 2:1 syrup too early in the fall. If the queen is still actively laying, the bees may backfill the brood nest with syrup, leaving her no room to lay eggs. This can severely limit the number of young winter bees. Start feeding heavy syrup after the first frost or when you see the natural pollen and nectar sources have truly dried up.

Providing Pollen Patties for Brood Rearing

Sugar syrup provides carbohydrates for energy, but bees need protein to raise their young. That protein comes from pollen. A pollen dearth can be just as devastating as a nectar dearth, as it brings brood rearing to a grinding halt.

Pollen patties are a substitute that provides the protein and amino acids necessary for larval development. They are essential for kickstarting a colony in late winter or early spring, about four to six weeks before the first natural pollen appears. This gives the queen a head start, ensuring a strong population is ready for the first nectar flow. They are also a lifesaver during a dry summer when pollen-producing plants wither.

There is a tradeoff, however. Pollen patties can attract pests, particularly small hive beetles. Place the patty directly on the top bars over the brood cluster, and only provide an amount the bees can consume in a week or two. Never leave old, dried-out patties in the hive, as they become a breeding ground for pests.

The Mountain Camp Method Using Dry Granulated Sugar

Feeding liquid syrup in the dead of winter is a bad idea. It introduces excess moisture into the hive at a time when condensation can be a death sentence for the cluster. The Mountain Camp method is a simple, effective way to provide emergency winter food without this risk.

This technique involves placing a sheet of newspaper over the top bars of the uppermost box, directly above the bee cluster. You then pour a mound of plain, dry granulated sugar onto the newspaper. The bees’ own respiration and body heat will create just enough moisture to allow them to consume the sugar as needed.

This method is an insurance policy. The bees will continue to eat their stored honey first and will only move up to the sugar if their primary stores run out. It’s a set-it-and-forget-it approach that can save a colony from starvation during a long, cold winter. It’s far better to have the sugar there and not need it than to lose a hive in February.

Internal Frame Feeders to Prevent Robbing Behavior

How you feed is just as important as what you feed. External feeders, especially entrance feeders, can trigger a "robbing frenzy." They broadcast the scent of sugar water to every bee, wasp, and hornet in the area, putting your hive at extreme risk.

Internal feeders are a much safer alternative. These feeders fit inside the hive, replacing one or two frames in the brood box.

• Frame feeders hold a large volume of syrup and keep it contained within the hive walls.
• Top hive feeders sit on top of the uppermost box, under the outer cover, also keeping the food source protected.

By keeping the syrup inside, you dramatically reduce the scent that attracts robbers. This is especially crucial during a dearth when resources are scarce and colonies are desperate. Always reduce your hive entrance to the smallest opening when feeding to help your guard bees defend their home against intruders.

Avoiding Store-Bought Honey to Prevent Disease Spread

It might seem logical to feed bees honey, but feeding them store-bought honey is one of the most dangerous things a beekeeper can do. Commercial honey, even if labeled "pure" or "raw," can contain the microscopic spores of American Foulbrood (AFB).

AFB is an incurable and highly contagious bacterial disease that kills honey bee larvae. While the spores are harmless to humans, they can remain dormant for decades in honey. When fed to a hive, these spores activate and can quickly wipe out the entire colony, and potentially spread to other hives in your area.

There is no way to know if a jar of honey from the grocery store is free of these spores. The only safe honey to feed back to your bees is honey you harvested yourself from your own known, disease-free hives. When in doubt, always use sugar syrup or dry sugar for feeding. It’s a simple precaution that protects your bees from a devastating outcome.

Tapering Off Feeding as Natural Nectar Returns

Supplemental feeding is a bridge, not a destination. The goal is to support the colony until it can support itself again. As soon as you see signs of a natural nectar flow, it’s time to stop feeding.

Watch your bees and the environment. Are the bees returning to the hive with full pollen baskets of varying colors? Can you see fresh, white wax being drawn out on the frames? A gentle lift of the hive will tell you if it’s gaining weight from natural sources. These are all signs that the dearth is over.

Continuing to feed after the flow begins can lead to two problems. First, the bees may store the sugar syrup in the honey supers, which adulterates your honey crop. Second, it can create a dependency and may even intensify robbing pressure in the apiary. A resilient hive is one that forages for itself, and a good beekeeper knows when to step back and let them do their work.

Responsible feeding is about observation and precise timing. It’s not a sign of failure but a mark of a diligent beekeeper who understands the seasonal rhythms of the landscape. By providing the right food at the right time, you give your bees the support they need to become a strong, self-sufficient, and truly resilient colony.