FARM Infrastructure

6 Best Welded Wire Fences For Rabbits That Stop Digging

Prevent rabbits from digging under your fence. We review the 6 best welded wire options, focusing on the right gauge and mesh size for a secure barrier.

You’ve spent weeks nurturing your seedlings, and one morning you walk out to find your entire row of young bean plants snipped clean to the ground. The culprit isn’t a mystery; it’s the relentless, twitch-nosed rabbit. For the hobby farmer, this isn’t just a minor annoyance—it’s the difference between a full pantry and a frustrating season. Choosing the right fence isn’t just about putting up a barrier; it’s about outsmarting an animal that is biologically programmed to get to your crops.

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Choosing Welded Wire to Stop Rabbit Digging

The first mistake many people make is reaching for standard chicken wire. Don’t do it. Rabbits, especially determined ones like jackrabbits, can chew through the thin, twisted wires or use their weight to tear openings. Welded wire is the answer because each intersection is physically welded, creating a much stronger, more rigid grid.

When you’re looking at rolls of welded wire, pay attention to three things: gauge, mesh size, and coating. The gauge refers to the wire’s thickness—a lower number means thicker, stronger wire. For rabbits, a 16-gauge wire is a great all-around choice, while a 14-gauge is even tougher and will stand up to anything a rabbit can throw at it.

The mesh size is critical. A 1-inch by 2-inch mesh is a common and effective size, but a 1-inch by 1/2-inch mesh is even better. It will stop not only adult rabbits but also their tiny, persistent offspring who can squeeze through surprisingly small gaps. Finally, look for a galvanized or vinyl-coated finish. This isn’t just for looks; it prevents rust and dramatically extends the life of your fence, saving you from doing this whole job again in a few years.

Red Brand Yard, Garden & Kennel Welded Wire

If you want a fence that will likely outlast your garden shed, Red Brand is the name you look for. This is classic, heavy-duty farm fencing. It’s typically made from a thick 12.5 or 14-gauge wire, making it incredibly rigid and resistant to damage from both animals and equipment, like a careless string trimmer.

The main advantage here is sheer durability. The heavy galvanization means it stands up to wet weather for decades without rusting through. You install it once, and you’re done. This is the fence you choose for a permanent garden perimeter that you never want to worry about again.

The tradeoff is that it’s tough to work with. The stiffness that makes it so durable also makes it difficult to unroll, cut, and bend. It’s also one of the more expensive options per foot. But if your rabbit pressure is high and you believe in buying something once and having it last, the extra cost and effort are well worth it.

Yardgard Galvanized Hardware Cloth Fence

Don’t let the word "cloth" fool you; this is a type of welded wire mesh. Hardware cloth is defined by its very small mesh size, typically 1/2-inch or even 1/4-inch squares. This fine grid is its biggest selling point. Absolutely nothing is getting through this stuff—not baby rabbits, not voles, not even large insects.

This material is perfect for protecting specific, high-value areas. Think of it as surgical protection for your prize-winning tomatoes or the tender lettuce in a raised bed. Because the wire gauge is usually lighter (often 19-gauge), it’s not meant to be a physically imposing barrier on its own. It relies on being securely fastened to posts or the sides of a raised bed for its structure.

The downside is cost and visibility. All those extra welds and wire make hardware cloth more expensive than larger-mesh options. The dense pattern also blocks a bit more light and airflow, which is something to consider. It’s not the right choice for fencing a half-acre plot, but for fortifying key zones, it’s unbeatable.

Fencer Wire 16 Gauge Black Vinyl Coated Mesh

This option strikes a fantastic balance between strength, usability, and aesthetics. A 16-gauge wire is more than strong enough to stop rabbits from chewing or pushing through, but it’s significantly more flexible and easier to work with than a heavy 14-gauge roll. This makes installation, especially bending the L-footer apron, much easier on your hands and back.

The real standout feature is the black vinyl coating. Functionally, it adds a second layer of protection over the galvanization, making it extremely corrosion-resistant. This is a huge plus in damp climates or areas where the fence will be in constant contact with wet soil.

Aesthetically, the black coating is a game-changer. Unlike shiny galvanized wire that stands out, a black fence tends to visually disappear into the background. It gives your garden a clean, professional look without creating a "cage-like" feel. For a garden that’s part of your yard’s landscape, this is often the best choice.

Everbilt Green PVC Coated Welded Wire Fence

You’ll find this brand in the aisles of most big box hardware stores, which makes it one of the most accessible options out there. Like the Fencer Wire, it features a PVC coating for enhanced durability and rust prevention, but in this case, it’s green. The idea is for the fence to blend in with garden foliage.

Pay close attention to the product specifications when you buy this one. It’s sold in a wide variety of mesh sizes and gauges. Avoid the very large 2-inch by 4-inch mesh, as tiny rabbits can sometimes squeeze through. Look for their smaller mesh options, like 1-inch by 2-inch, to ensure you’re getting real protection.

This is often a more budget-friendly choice, which is a major consideration for fencing a large area. It provides good, reliable protection and the PVC coating helps it last. Just be a diligent shopper and make sure you’re getting a gauge and mesh size that are truly suited for stopping rabbits, not just for general-purpose fencing.

Amagabeli 1/2 Inch Hardware Cloth Fence

This brand has become a go-to for many gardeners who shop online. They offer a wide range of hardware cloth options, but their 1/2-inch mesh is particularly useful for total pest exclusion. It’s a solid choice for building enclosed garden beds or creating a completely secure perimeter at the base of a taller fence.

Like other hardware cloths, this product excels at stopping the smallest of intruders. If you have issues with voles tunneling into your root crops or chipmunks stealing berries, this fine mesh is the solution. It’s typically a 19-gauge wire, so it’s flexible and easy to cut with standard wire snips, making it great for custom projects.

The key is to understand its role. This isn’t a standalone fence for a large area. It’s a specialized material for creating an impenetrable barrier where it matters most. Use it to line the bottom two feet of a taller fence or to build secure frames over your most vulnerable crops.

Tenax 2A140078 Cintoflex M Deer Fence

This one is different—it’s not welded wire. It’s a heavy-duty, flexible polypropylene plastic mesh. So why is it on a list for stopping digging rabbits? Because hobby farmers rarely have just one pest problem. Often, if you have rabbits, you also have deer. This fence offers a brilliant two-in-one solution when used correctly.

Here’s the strategy: install a 2-foot or 3-foot high welded wire fence with a proper L-footer apron to stop the rabbits. Then, run this lightweight Tenax fencing above it, attached to the same posts, to bring the total fence height to 7 or 8 feet. This creates a barrier that stops digging rabbits at the bottom and jumping deer at the top.

This material will not stop rabbits on its own. They will chew right through it if it’s at ground level. But using it for the upper portion of a fence saves a tremendous amount of money, weight, and installation hassle compared to building an 8-foot-tall all-metal fence. It’s a practical, hybrid approach for dealing with multiple types of animal pressure at once.

Installing Your Fence with an L-Footer Apron

The best fence material in the world will fail if a rabbit can simply dig underneath it. This is where the L-footer, or apron, becomes the most important part of your entire fencing project. This simple installation technique is what truly stops a digging animal in its tracks.

The concept is simple. Instead of just burying the fence vertically, you bend the bottom 12 inches of the welded wire outward at a 90-degree angle, away from your garden. This horizontal flap of wire lies flat in a shallow trench you dig along the fenceline. When a rabbit comes to the fence and tries to dig down, its paws hit the buried wire mesh.

To install it, first dig a trench about 3-4 inches deep and 12-15 inches wide along your planned fence line. Roll out your wire and, at the bottom, make a crisp 90-degree bend to create the "L" shape. Place the fence in the trench with the vertical part up and the horizontal apron facing out from the garden. Secure the apron to the ground with landscape staples, then backfill the trench with the soil you removed.

This works because a rabbit’s instinct is to dig directly at the base of an obstacle. It doesn’t have the logic to back up 12 inches and start digging there. The L-footer uses the rabbit’s own predictable behavior against it, creating a simple but incredibly effective barrier that requires no electricity or maintenance.

Ultimately, winning the battle against garden rabbits comes down to a two-part strategy: choosing a material they can’t chew through and installing it in a way they can’t dig under. By pairing a durable welded wire with a properly installed L-footer apron, you create a permanent solution. It’s an investment of time and effort upfront that pays off all season long with the simple pleasure of harvesting what you planted.

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