5 Rabbit Fencing And Predator Protection Old Farmers Swear By

There’s no worse feeling than walking out to your rabbitry at dawn to find a scene of devastation. One determined predator can undo months of work and care in a single night. Securing your rabbits isn’t just about putting up a barrier; it’s about outsmarting the specific threats in your area with time-tested methods.

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Understanding Common Rabbit Predator Behaviors

You have to learn to think like the things that want to eat your rabbits. A fence is just a puzzle to a predator, and each one solves it differently. Your job is to make the puzzle impossible.

Coyotes, foxes, and stray dogs are diggers. They’ll patrol a fenceline, testing for a weak spot to push under. Raccoons, on the other hand, are climbers with disturbingly clever hands. They go over the top and can work simple latches with ease. Then you have the squeezers—weasels, mink, and some snakes—who can slip through an opening you might not even see.

A tall fence is useless against a fox that digs, and a buried fence does nothing for a raccoon that climbs. Aerial predators like hawks and owls add another dimension, making a secure top non-negotiable for any outdoor run or tractor. Your predator protection plan must account for all three attack vectors: digging, climbing, and squeezing.

Burying Wire Fencing to Stop Digging Pests

A fence that stops at ground level is an open invitation to any predator with paws. They see the bottom edge as a starting point, not a barrier. The only way to truly stop a digger is to extend your fence underground.

The most effective method is the "L-footer" or apron fence. You dig a trench about a foot deep and a foot wide along the outside of your enclosure. The fencing material is then laid down into the trench, creating an "L" shape that extends outward, away from the rabbits.

When a fox or coyote tries to dig at the base of the fence, its paws hit the buried wire. Their instinct is to dig right at the fenceline, not to back up a foot and start there. This simple, unseen barrier frustrates them until they give up and move on to an easier meal. It’s a lot of work upfront, but it solves the digging problem permanently.

Choosing Small-Gauge Hardware Cloth Fencing

Many people make the mistake of using chicken wire for rabbit enclosures. Chicken wire is designed to keep chickens in, not to keep predators out. A raccoon can tear through it with its bare hands, and a determined fox can chew it apart.

The proper material is 1/2-inch hardware cloth. This is a grid of steel wire that is welded at each intersection, making it incredibly strong and rigid. The half-inch spacing is critical—it’s small enough to stop a tiny weasel or snake from squeezing through. Anything larger, like one-inch mesh, leaves a dangerous gap.

Pay attention to the wire gauge, too. A lower gauge number means thicker, stronger wire. Look for 16-gauge if you can find it, though 19-gauge is more common and still offers solid protection. Yes, hardware cloth costs significantly more than flimsy poultry netting, but the security and peace of mind it provides are worth every penny.

Installing a Low Hot Wire for Ground Predators

Sometimes a physical barrier isn’t enough; you need a psychological one. A low-slung electric wire, or "hot wire," provides a memorable lesson to curious predators. It doesn’t harm them, but it delivers a sharp, unpleasant shock that teaches them to associate your rabbitry with pain.

The setup is simple. Run a single strand of electric wire on insulators about 4-6 inches off the ground, positioned 4-8 inches out from your main fence. When a raccoon, fox, or dog approaches to sniff or dig at the fence, its wet nose makes contact with the wire. That’s usually all it takes to send them running for good.

This does require a bit of extra management. You’ll need a fence charger (solar or plug-in models work well) and you must keep the grass and weeds trimmed from under the wire to prevent it from shorting out. It’s a small chore that pays huge dividends, acting as an invisible guard dog that works 24/7.

The Double-Fence System for Maximum Security

If you live in an area with heavy predator pressure, or if you’ve already suffered a major loss, it may be time to escalate your defenses. The double-fence system is the gold standard for creating a truly secure perimeter. It’s more work and more money, but it’s as close to foolproof as you can get.

The concept involves two separate fences. The inner fence is your primary enclosure, built from heavy-duty hardware cloth with a buried apron. The outer fence, positioned 3-5 feet away, is a taller but less-secure barrier, like woven wire field fencing or electric poultry netting.

This system works on multiple levels. The outer fence stops a predator’s initial approach and prevents it from getting close enough to the inner fence to reach through or cause panic. The space between the fences creates a "no-man’s-land" that makes predators feel vulnerable and exposed. It forces them to defeat two completely different obstacles, which is often more trouble than it’s worth.

Securing Latches and Tops Against Smart Pests

Never underestimate a raccoon. They have the dexterity of a small child and an endless supply of patient curiosity. If your hutch or run has a simple hook-and-eye latch, you might as well have left the door wide open.

Every single access point needs a latch that requires opposable thumbs to operate. Spring-loaded clips, carabiners, or two-step deadbolts are excellent choices. A raccoon can lift a hook or slide a simple bolt, so you need a mechanism they can’t physically manipulate. It’s wise to use two latches on larger doors—one at the top and one at the bottom—to prevent prying.

The top of any run is just as critical. A solid roof is best, but if you use wire, it must be the same 1/2-inch hardware cloth as the sides. Ensure it’s securely fastened with no gaps. Hawks, owls, and climbing predators will exploit any weakness in your overhead security.

Layering Defenses for a Fortified Rabbitry

A single line of defense is a single point of failure. True security comes from layering different types of protection, so if a predator defeats one, it immediately faces another. Each layer should be designed to thwart a different predatory behavior.

Think of it as a complete system. Your first layer might be a low hot wire to deter investigation. If a predator braves the shock, it then meets the second layer: a sturdy hardware cloth fence. If it tries to dig under that, it hits the third layer: the buried wire apron. And if it’s a climber, it’s stopped by the fourth layer: a secure top and raccoon-proof latches.

This defense-in-depth approach means a predator has to be smart, strong, and persistent enough to solve multiple problems in a row. Most aren’t. They are opportunistic hunters looking for an easy meal, and a layered system is anything but easy.

Regular Fence Maintenance for Lasting Safety

Your fence is not a one-and-done project. It’s a dynamic structure that is constantly being tested by weather, falling branches, and the very predators it’s meant to stop. Diligent maintenance is what keeps it effective.

Make it a weekly habit to walk your entire fenceline. Look for signs of digging, rust spots near the ground, or areas where the wire is sagging. Check that gates hang properly and that every latch is secure and functional. If you have a hot wire, use a tester to confirm it’s carrying a full charge and trim back any vegetation that could ground it out.

Predators are experts at finding the path of least resistance. A small hole chewed by a rodent, a section of fence pushed up by frost heave, or a latch that’s gotten loose—these are the invitations they are looking for. Consistent inspection and immediate repairs are the final, and most crucial, element of keeping your rabbits safe.

Building a predator-proof rabbitry is an investment of time and resources, but it’s one of the most important you’ll make. By understanding predator behavior and layering your defenses, you create a secure environment where your animals can thrive. A well-built, well-maintained fence lets you sleep soundly at night, knowing your rabbits are safe.