FARM Infrastructure

6 Permanent Sheep Goat Fencing Setups That Prevent Common Issues

Secure your flock for good. Our guide details 6 permanent sheep and goat fence setups designed to prevent escapes, stop predators, and reduce maintenance.

There’s a special kind of dread that sets in when you look out at a pasture and see only half the animals you’re supposed to. A good fence isn’t just about keeping your sheep or goats in; it’s about keeping predators out and giving you peace of mind. Choosing the right permanent fencing is one of the most important infrastructure decisions you’ll make, saving you countless hours of chasing escapees and preventing tragic losses.

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Planning Your Fence to Stop Escape Artists

The first rule of fencing is that you build it for the animal you have, not the one you wish you had. Goats are climbers, pushers, and exploiters of any perceived weakness. Sheep are masters of finding low spots, crawling under wires, and using their weight to test every inch of the line. Your fence design must anticipate this behavior from day one.

The lay of the land is just as important as the materials you choose. A fence that’s perfectly tight on flat ground can have huge gaps when it crosses a ditch or gully. You must plan for robust bracing at every corner, end, and significant change in elevation. These anchor points are the skeleton of your entire system; if they fail, the whole fence fails.

Finally, consider the pressure on the fence line. A perimeter fence bordering a forest with coyote pressure needs to be more robust than an internal cross-fence separating two calm groups. High-traffic areas, like a lane leading to the barn or a small holding pen, will see constant rubbing and testing. Tailoring the fence type to the pressure it will face is the key to a long-lasting, effective system.

Woven Wire: The Classic Physical Barrier

Woven wire, often called field fence or sheep and goat fence, is the traditional workhorse for a reason. It provides a formidable physical barrier that animals can see and respect. Its construction of vertical "stay" wires and horizontal line wires creates a grid that is difficult for livestock to push through.

The details are what make woven wire work. For goats and sheep, especially those with horns, you need a mesh with 4-inch by 4-inch openings. The wider rectangular mesh common in cattle fencing is a major hazard, creating a perfect trap for a goat or sheep to stick its head through and get stuck. For height, 48 inches is a practical minimum; anything shorter is an invitation for an athletic goat to clear.

While highly effective, woven wire is not invincible. A determined goat can learn to climb it, and repeated pushing from a flock of sheep can cause it to sag over time. Its effectiveness is entirely dependent on it being stretched drum-tight during installation, which requires good corner bracing and often specialized tools. It’s a significant investment in both labor and materials, but one that pays dividends for decades when done right.

High-Tensile Wire for Predator Deterrence

High-tensile electric fencing is a completely different approach. Instead of a physical wall, it creates a powerful psychological barrier. This isn’t the flimsy polywire used for temporary grazing; it’s a permanent system using heavy-gauge, highly tensioned steel wire that delivers a sharp, memorable shock.

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This type of fence is arguably the best for deterring predators like coyotes while containing your stock. A typical setup for sheep and goats uses five to seven strands, with specific spacing to prevent animals from going over, under, or through. The bottom wire must be low enough to zap a curious nose, while the top wire should be at a height that discourages jumpers.

The major tradeoff with high-tensile is its reliance on a high-quality, properly grounded energizer. If the power is off, you have no fence. It also requires diligent vegetation management, as tall weeds or grass touching the wires will ground them out and reduce the shock’s effectiveness. It’s a fantastic system for large pastures, but it demands consistent monitoring.

Welded Wire Panels for High-Pressure Areas

For small areas under intense pressure, nothing beats the brute strength of rigid wire panels. Often sold as cattle or hog panels, these 16-foot-long sections of heavy-gauge welded wire are incredibly durable. They don’t stretch, sag, or bend, making them ideal for containing animals in confined spaces.

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Think of these panels as a targeted solution, not a perimeter fence. They are perfect for:

  • Building indestructible kidding and lambing jugs.
  • Creating small, secure buck or ram pens.
  • Lining a high-traffic alleyway or corral system.
  • Securing the area around a barn where animals congregate.

The downside is cost and installation on uneven ground. Panels are significantly more expensive per foot than wire rolls, making them impractical for large acreages. Because they are rigid, installing them on rolling terrain can be a challenge, often requiring custom cutting or leaving gaps that must be filled. Use them where you need absolute, foolproof containment.

Hybrid Fencing: Woven Wire with Electric

Combining a physical barrier with a psychological one offers the best of both worlds. A hybrid fence typically consists of a standard woven wire fence with one or two offset electric wires added. This simple addition dramatically increases the fence’s effectiveness and lifespan.

An electric wire run on an offset insulator on the inside of the fence, set at animal nose-height, is transformative. It completely stops animals from leaning, rubbing, or trying to climb the woven wire, which is the primary cause of sagging and damage. This single hot wire protects your larger investment in the woven wire itself.

For even greater security, a second hot wire can be run on the outside of the fence, positioned low to the ground. This is an excellent predator deterrent, stopping coyotes or stray dogs from digging or pushing their way under the fence. While more complex and expensive to install initially, this hybrid system addresses the weaknesses of both individual fence types, creating a nearly foolproof enclosure.

Chain Link for Secure Kidding & Lambing Pens

While you’d never fence a pasture with it, chain link has a valuable, specialized role on a small farm. Its strength and small mesh size make it the ultimate material for high-security, high-welfare enclosures like nursery pens. There is virtually no risk of a newborn lamb or kid getting a leg or head stuck.

Chain link is the ideal choice for a permanent buck or ram pen, especially for containing aggressive males during the rut. It’s also perfect for a small "sick bay" or quarantine pen, where you need absolute certainty that an animal will stay put and remain safe. The smooth, galvanized surface is also easy to clean and disinfect.

The prohibitive cost and industrial appearance mean it’s not a general-purpose solution. But for a small, critical area of 100 or 200 square feet, the peace of mind it provides during lambing season or when housing a valuable herdsire is well worth the investment. It’s a case of using the right, heavy-duty tool for a very specific and important job.

Wood Rail with Mesh for Strength and Style

For areas where appearance is as important as function, like along a driveway or around the house, a wood rail fence combined with wire mesh is a fantastic option. This setup pairs the classic aesthetic of a board fence with the containment security of modern wire. The wood structure provides immense rigidity, while the mesh does the actual work of holding the animals.

The key to this design is placing the wire mesh on the inside (animal side) of the posts. This prevents sheep from pushing boards off the rails or goats from standing on the lower rail to reach over. A 2×4 welded wire mesh is a common choice, as it’s strong and less visible than heavier woven wire.

Be prepared for the cost and labor. This is by far the most expensive and time-consuming fence to build correctly. It requires straight lines, perfectly set posts, and careful craftsmanship. However, the result is an incredibly strong, long-lasting, and beautiful fence that adds value to your property while keeping your animals completely secure.

Secure Gates: The Most Common Failure Point

You can build the best fence in the world, but it’s worthless if you have a cheap gate. The gate is the single most-used and most-stressed part of any fence line, and it’s where the vast majority of escapes occur. A flimsy gate is an open invitation for a determined animal.

Common gate failures are almost always predictable. Goats learn to operate simple latches with their noses, while a herd of sheep can easily push the bottom of a gate outward if it isn’t secured. Sagging hinges create gaps that small animals can squeeze through. Never underestimate an animal’s ability to find the weak point in your system.

Invest in heavy-duty hardware and smart design. Use a gate that is as tall as your fence and made of comparable material. A simple chain and snap clip is often more secure than a fancy latch. For high-pressure areas, ensure the gate can be secured at both the top and the bottom with a drop pin or a second latch. Treat your gate with the same seriousness as the rest of your fence, because your livestock certainly will.

Ultimately, the best fence is a system that is thoughtfully planned and properly installed. By understanding your animals’ behavior and the unique pressures of your property, you can invest in a solution that provides security and peace of mind for years to come. A solid fence is freedom—freedom from worry, freedom from chasing livestock, and the freedom to enjoy your farm.

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