5 Wireless Poultry Netting Installations That Prevent Common Issues

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Proper Setup: The Key to Effective Netting

The single most important factor for a successful poultry netting system is tension. A tight fence stands tall, presents a clear psychological and physical barrier to predators, and keeps its electric charge effectively. A loose fence invites problems, from chickens pushing underneath to predators testing its weak points. Tension is everything.

Think of the netting like a sail on a boat. It needs to be pulled taut from strong anchor points to function correctly. Every post in between the corners is just a spacer, holding the net upright. If your corners are weak, the entire system will fail, no matter how many posts you use in the middle. Proper setup starts and ends with creating and maintaining tension.

The Double-Post Corner for Maximum Tension

A single step-in post at a 90-degree corner is the number one point of failure. The constant pull of the netting inevitably causes the post to lean, creating a droop that cascades down the entire fence line. The solution is to build a stronger anchor using a double-post corner, which functions like a small H-brace.

To do this, place a standard step-in post at the actual corner. Then, place a second, more robust post (like a T-post or a screw-in corner post) about three to four feet away, both inside and outside the corner along the fence line. Use non-conductive twine or rope to tie the top of the corner post back to the bottom of these anchor posts. This triangulation creates an incredibly strong anchor that resists the inward pull, allowing you to achieve drum-tight tension across the entire paddock.

This method requires a couple of extra posts and a few minutes of work, but the payoff is immense. Your corners will hold firm through wind, rain, and the occasional bump from livestock. It completely transforms the stability and longevity of your setup, turning a flimsy barrier into a reliable fortress.

A Skirted Base to Deter Digging Predators

An electric fence is a great deterrent for climbing or jumping predators, but it does little to stop a determined digger like a fox or a raccoon. If you have high predator pressure, a simple strand of hot wire at the bottom isn’t always enough. Creating a "skirt" at the base of the netting is a far more effective physical barrier.

The concept is simple: prevent animals from getting a foothold at the fenceline. You can achieve this in two ways. The easiest method is to let the bottom 6-12 inches of the netting lie flat on the ground, pointing outward from the paddock, and secure it with landscape staples. A predator trying to dig will start on top of the mesh, and their efforts will be fruitless.

For a more permanent or robust solution, you can lay down a separate 2-foot wide roll of chicken wire or hardware cloth on the ground and set your electric netting on top of it, with most of the wire extending outward. The tradeoff here is mobility. A skirted fence is not easy to move, so this technique is best for semi-permanent paddocks where your flock will stay for several weeks or months. It’s a commitment, but for high-risk areas, it provides peace of mind.

Using a Ridgeline to Eliminate Mid-Span Sag

Even with tight corners, long stretches of netting will inevitably sag between posts, especially on uneven ground. This creates an opportunity for chickens to hop over or for predators to push through. The fix is a ridgeline—a non-conductive line that runs along the top of the fence, providing a "backbone" of support.

Use a simple, strong, and UV-resistant material like baling twine or a synthetic rope. Tie it off securely at one corner post, then run it through the tops of the step-in posts, pulling it taut as you go. You can thread it through the post insulators or simply wrap it around the top of each post. The ridgeline physically holds the netting up, preventing the dreaded mid-span droop.

This technique adds almost no weight and costs next to nothing, yet it dramatically improves the fence’s profile and integrity. It keeps the top hot wire at a consistent height, ensuring it remains an effective psychological barrier. For paddocks over 50 feet long, a ridgeline is one of the best time-for-value improvements you can make.

The Mowed Path Method to Prevent Grounding Out

Your energizer’s power is finite. Every blade of tall, wet grass that touches a hot wire acts as a tiny leak, draining electricity into the ground and weakening the shock along the entire fence. This is called "grounding out," and it’s the primary reason an electric fence fails to deter animals.

The solution is simple preventative maintenance. A mowed path is non-negotiable for effective electric netting. Before you even unroll the fence, mow a two to three-foot-wide strip along your intended fence line. This creates a clear buffer zone, ensuring the bottom hot wire remains free from contact with power-sapping vegetation.

This step seems tedious, but it saves you countless hours of troubleshooting later. A properly cleared fenceline allows your energizer to deliver its full power, creating a potent shock that teaches respect. Trying to weed-whack under an already-installed, live fence is a miserable, frustrating task. Do it first, and your fence will work reliably from day one.

Creating a Simple Overlap Gate for Daily Use

The built-in "gates" on most poultry netting kits are often clumsy and impractical for daily use. They create a loose spot in the fence and can be a pain to open and close. A far better system is a simple, user-made overlap gate that requires no special parts.

To build one, end your fence run with a post. Then, start the next section of fence with another post placed just a foot or two away from the first one. When you close the "gate," you simply pull the end of one fence section past the beginning of the other, creating a 2-foot overlap. The tension from the rest of the fence holds it securely in place. You can use a simple carabiner or a piece of twine to clip the two sections together for added security.

This gate system is incredibly secure because an animal pushing on it only tightens the overlap. It’s also fast. You can open and close it with one hand, without fumbling with clips or disconnecting wires. It maintains fence tension and integrity far better than any floppy "gate post" system included in a kit.

A Step-by-Step Guide for Moving Your Fence

The beauty of poultry netting is its mobility, allowing you to rotate your flock onto fresh pasture. But moving it can quickly become a tangled nightmare if you don’t have a system. A methodical approach makes the process quick and painless.

Follow these steps for an efficient move:

1. Disconnect Power: Always turn off and disconnect the energizer first.
2. Clear the New Path: Mow the perimeter for your new paddock before you start taking the old one down.
3. Remove Corner Anchors: Untie your double-post corners and remove any extra anchor posts.
4. Walk the Line: Starting at one end, pull up each step-in post and lay it on the ground with the spike pointing in the direction of travel. This prevents tangles.
5. Gather and Carry: Once all posts are down, go back to the start and gather the posts into a bundle. The netting will fold neatly as you go. Carry the bundle to the new site.
6. Set Corners First: Lay out the netting along the mowed path. Install your strong corner posts first to define the new paddock’s shape.
7. Walk and Plant: Starting from a corner, walk the line and step in the posts one by one, pulling the netting taut as you go.
8. Tension and Connect: Re-tie your double-post corner anchors to create tension, then reconnect the energizer.

This systematic process prevents the dreaded "netting ball" and turns a potentially frustrating chore into a smooth, 15-minute job. The key is to handle the posts in an orderly fashion and never let the netting pile up on itself.

Combining Techniques for a Secure Paddock

These techniques are not standalone solutions; they are building blocks for a comprehensive system. The best poultry netting setups combine several methods tailored to the specific challenges of your property. You don’t have to use every trick on every setup, but knowing them allows you to adapt.

For a highly secure but less mobile paddock on uneven ground, you might use double-post corners, a skirted base, and a ridgeline. For a quick, temporary paddock moved every few days on flat pasture, focusing on a mowed path and an overlap gate might be all you need. The goal is to assess your needs—predator pressure, terrain, and frequency of moves—and apply the right tools for the job.

Think of your fence not as a single product, but as a dynamic system. By mastering these simple installation and maintenance techniques, you move from fighting with your fence to making it a powerful and reliable tool. A well-managed fence provides security for your flock, peace of mind for you, and a foundation for regenerative grazing.

Ultimately, a roll of poultry netting is just a tool. Its effectiveness depends entirely on the skill of the person deploying it. By moving beyond the basic instructions on the box and implementing these field-tested techniques, you can transform a frustrating liability into one of the most valuable assets on your farm.