6 Chicken Wire Poultry Netting Setup Guides That Prevent Common Issues

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Understanding Common Poultry Netting Failures

The first thing to accept is that standard hexagonal chicken wire is a barrier, not a fortress. It’s designed to keep chickens in, not necessarily to keep determined predators out. Its thin gauge can be torn by a strong raccoon, and the wide hexagonal openings are large enough for a weasel or mink to squeeze right through. Understanding its inherent weaknesses is the first step toward building a system that compensates for them.

Most fence breaches happen in one of three ways: predators dig under, they go through, or they go over. Foxes, coyotes, and even neighborhood dogs are diggers, exploiting the soft earth right at the fence line. Raccoons are clever manipulators and climbers; they will test every inch of the wire for a weak spot to tear or a loose section to push through. Finally, hawks and owls are aerial threats, while agile climbers can easily scale a short, unsecured fence.

A successful poultry fence isn’t just a single line of defense; it’s a layered system. Each component, from the buried base to the tensioned top line, must work together. A failure in one area, like an unsecured gate or a sagging corner, compromises the entire structure. The goal is to create a perimeter with no obvious weak points for a predator to exploit.

The L-Footer Method to Stop Digging Predators

Digging is a predator’s most basic and effective strategy. The L-footer, also called an apron, is the single best defense against it. This simple technique involves extending the bottom of the fence outward along the ground, creating a horizontal barrier that stops a predator in its tracks. When an animal tries to dig at the fence line, it hits this buried or pinned-down mesh and gives up.

There are two primary ways to install an L-footer. The most permanent method is to dig a shallow trench, about 6-8 inches deep, along the outside of your fence line. You then bend the bottom 12 to 18 inches of your poultry netting outward at a 90-degree angle, lay it in the trench, and backfill it with the soil. This creates an invisible and highly effective barrier.

For rocky soil or a less labor-intensive approach, you can lay the apron directly on the ground’s surface. Bend the wire out flat and use landscape staples, stakes, or heavy rocks every couple of feet to pin it down securely. Over time, grass and soil will grow over it, anchoring it even more firmly. While faster to install, this method may require occasional maintenance to ensure the staples remain secure and the wire stays flat against the ground.

Using Hardware Cloth to Reinforce the Base

Chicken wire alone is no match for the powerful paws and sharp teeth of a determined raccoon. They can grab the thin wire, worry it back and forth until it snaps, and create a hole in minutes. The bottom two to three feet of your fence is the most vulnerable zone, and this is where hardware cloth is essential.

Hardware cloth is a heavy-gauge, welded wire mesh with small, square openings (1/2-inch is ideal). To reinforce your run, you’ll want to attach a 24- or 36-inch tall strip of it to the outside of your fence posts, covering the weaker chicken wire. Overlap the two materials and use steel wire ties or J-clips every six inches to fasten them together tightly. This creates a tough, chew-proof, and tear-proof barrier at the height where predators are most likely to apply pressure.

The ultimate ground-level defense combines a hardware cloth base with an L-footer. After attaching the vertical hardware cloth, you can create your L-footer using either the leftover chicken wire or, for maximum security, a separate strip of hardware cloth. This two-part system effectively stops both diggers and animals that try to tear their way through the base of the fence. It’s more work upfront, but it addresses the two most common points of entry.

Proper T-Post and Corner Brace Installation

The structural integrity of your fence depends entirely on its posts. Flimsy, shallowly set posts will lean under tension, causing the netting to sag and creating an easy entry point for predators. Metal T-posts are a popular, cost-effective choice, but their installation is what makes them work.

For a standard 6-foot T-post, you should aim to drive at least two feet of it into the ground. A post pounder is the right tool for this job; it’s safer and more effective than a sledgehammer. Space your posts no more than 8 to 10 feet apart. In areas with loose soil or high winds, placing them closer together (6 to 8 feet) will add significant strength. Always install T-posts with the studded side facing outward, away from the coop, so the wire is supported by the nubs when it’s pulled tight.

Corners are where a fence is most likely to fail. The tension from two directions pulls corner posts inward, leading to sag. For long or large fences, a wooden H-brace is the professional standard. For a simpler T-post fence, you can create a brace by driving a second T-post into the ground at an angle, with its top braced against the main corner post about two-thirds of the way up. This counteracts the inward pull and keeps your corners standing straight and strong for years.

Tensioning Techniques to Prevent Netting Sag

A loose, sagging fence is an open invitation. It allows predators to easily push under the netting or get a foothold to climb over. Proper tensioning transforms flimsy chicken wire into a surprisingly resilient barrier. The key is to apply firm, even pressure as you install it, removing all the slack without stretching and distorting the hexagonal mesh.

Start by securely fastening one end of the netting to a corner post. Unroll the wire to the next post, pull it taut by hand, and attach it. Don’t try to tension a 50-foot section all at once. Work post-to-post, ensuring the wire is snug at the top, middle, and bottom before moving on. Use the built-in clips on T-posts or heavy-duty UV-resistant zip ties for wood posts.

For a truly sag-proof fence, install a top and bottom tension wire. This is a strand of high-tensile steel or galvanized wire run between your posts before the netting goes on. You attach this guide wire to the posts and pull it very tight using turnbuckles or tensioners. Then, you attach the chicken wire to this rigid wire frame instead of just the posts. This technique transfers the load to the strong tension wire, virtually eliminating sag and creating a structure that can withstand impacts from animals or falling branches.

Securing the Top Edge Against Aerial Predators

Your flock isn’t just vulnerable from the ground. Hawks and owls are incredibly efficient hunters, and a four-foot fence is little more than a perch for them. For smaller runs and tractors, the most foolproof solution is a full roof. Stretching bird netting or another layer of chicken wire across the top creates a completely enclosed, safe space.

For larger paddocks where a full roof is impractical, you need to deter climbers and flyers. One effective method is to create an angled overhang. You can buy T-post extensions or simply bolt a piece of wood to the top of your posts that angles outward and upward at 45 degrees. Run several strands of wire or electric polywire along these extensions. A climbing raccoon or fox will be stopped by the overhang, and a perching hawk will be unable to find a stable spot to launch an attack.

Another option is to simply build a taller fence. A fence that is 6 feet tall is significantly more difficult for most land-based predators to climb. While it won’t stop a determined hawk, it will deter casual climbers and prevent chickens from flying out. Combining a tall fence with a tension wire at the very top can create a wobbly, unstable surface that further discourages anything from trying to go over.

Fortifying Gates to Eliminate Weak Points

A predator will walk the entire perimeter of your fence, and it will find the gate. Gates are, by nature, the weakest point in any enclosure, full of gaps, moving parts, and simple latches that are easily defeated. A poorly constructed gate renders even the most robust fence useless.

Your gate should be built with the same diligence as your fence. Use a solid wood or metal frame to prevent warping, and cover it with 1/2-inch hardware cloth, not chicken wire. The most critical detail is the gap: ensure there is no more than a half-inch of space between the gate and the post on all sides when it’s closed. This prevents small predators from squeezing through. A simple hook-and-eye latch is not secure; use a carabiner clip or a two-step locking latch that a raccoon cannot manipulate with its paws.

Don’t forget the gap at the bottom of the gate. To allow the gate to swing freely, many people leave a large opening that becomes a primary entry point for predators. The solution is to bury a flat paver stone or a pressure-treated 2×6 board in the ground directly under the gate. This creates a solid threshold that the gate can swing over and close against, completely eliminating that vulnerable gap.

Seasonal Checks for Long-Term Fence Integrity

A fence is a dynamic structure, not a static one. Ground freezes and thaws, trees drop limbs, and vegetation grows relentlessly. A "set it and forget it" mindset will lead to failure. Building regular fence checks into your seasonal routine is the key to long-term security and peace of mind.

Develop a simple inspection habit. Each season presents different challenges, so tailor your walkthrough accordingly.

• Spring: Check for posts that have been pushed up by frost heave. Inspect for damage from winter snow load or fallen branches. This is the best time to re-tension wires before summer growth begins.
• Summer: Keep grass and weeds trimmed along the fence line. Heavy vegetation provides cover for predators and can put pressure on the netting, causing it to sag or rust.
• Fall: Clear away fallen leaves from the base of the fence, as the trapped moisture accelerates rust. Check for any new digging attempts before the ground freezes solid.
• Winter: After a heavy snow or ice storm, walk the line to check for sagging or broken wires from the weight.

The best defense is proactive maintenance. Keep a small supply of zip ties, wire, and a pair of pliers handy. When you spot a small tear, a loose post, or a broken tie, fix it immediately. A five-minute repair today prevents you from discovering a devastating predator attack tomorrow. Your fence is your flock’s first and most important line of defense; treat it that way.

Ultimately, a secure poultry fence is a system of overlapping solutions, not just a roll of wire. By addressing the common failure points from the ground up—stopping diggers, reinforcing the base, and securing the top—you create a formidable barrier. This thoughtful construction, combined with regular maintenance, is what provides true security and allows you to enjoy your flock without constant worry.