7 Best Transfer Pumps For Moving Manure Slurry Old Farmers Swear By

Choosing a pump isn’t about finding the most powerful or most expensive model; it’s about matching the tool to your specific type of slurry, the volume you need to move, and how often you’ll be doing it. A pump that works wonders for thin hog slurry might choke on horse manure packed with straw. Getting this decision right saves you from clogged hoses, broken impellers, and hours of frustration.

Let’s break down some of the most reliable and trusted pumps out there. These are the models you see on small farms for a reason: they work, they last, and they handle the tough stuff. We’ll look at gas-powered workhorses, specialized sludge movers, and budget-friendly options that get the job done.

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Honda WT30X: The Reliable Gas-Powered Workhorse

When you need a portable, powerful, and ridiculously reliable pump, the Honda name comes up for a reason. The WT30X is a 3-inch trash pump that has become a staple on small farms. Its gas engine means you aren’t tethered to an outlet, letting you set up anywhere from the barn to the back pasture.

This pump is a true "trash" pump, meaning it’s designed to pass solids. The impeller and volute (the snail-shaped pump casing) are built from cast iron to withstand the grit and abrasion that comes with manure. It moves a high volume of liquid quickly, making short work of transferring slurry to a spreader or an irrigation line. It’s the perfect all-rounder if you need a pump for more than just manure, like dewatering a flooded field or filling water tanks.

The main trade-off is what you’d expect from any gas engine: noise, fumes, and the need to keep fuel on hand. It’s also not a "set it and forget it" tool like a submersible pump might be. But for pure, untethered power and the confidence that it will start every single time, the Honda WT30X is the gold standard for many farmers.

Gorman-Rupp 80 Series for High-Volume Slurry

If your operation is a bit larger or your slurry pit is a serious affair, you might need to step up to a Gorman-Rupp. The 80 Series pumps are self-priming centrifugal pumps that are absolute beasts. They are designed for continuous operation and are what you invest in when you want a pump for the next 30 years, not just the next few seasons.

These pumps are known for their easy maintenance. Many models feature a removable cover plate that gives you quick access to the impeller without having to disconnect the hoses. Anyone who has spent an afternoon trying to clear a clog from a cheap pump knows what a game-changer this is. They handle a significant amount of solids and are built for the kind of abrasive, demanding work that wears other pumps out.

This is not an entry-level pump. It represents a significant investment and is heavier and less portable than a small gas-powered model. But if you’re moving thousands of gallons regularly and depend on that pump to manage your nutrient cycle, the Gorman-Rupp’s reliability and serviceability are worth every penny. It’s a piece of infrastructure, not just a tool.

Tsurumi TD5-400: The Ultimate Diaphragm Pump

Sometimes, speed isn’t the most important thing. When you’re dealing with incredibly thick, sludgy material with high solids content, a standard centrifugal pump will struggle or clog. This is where a diaphragm pump, like the Tsurumi TD5-400, shines.

Instead of spinning an impeller, a diaphragm pump works more like a heart, using a flexible diaphragm to pulse and pull material through the pump body. This mechanism is fantastic for thick liquids and can even handle a surprising amount of mud, sand, and debris. A huge advantage is its ability to run dry for extended periods without damaging the pump, which would destroy a centrifugal pump. This makes it perfect for cleaning out the very bottom of a pit.

The trade-off is volume. Diaphragm pumps are slow. They chug along steadily but won’t move liquid with the speed of a trash pump. Think of it as a low-gear, high-torque tool. For thick, almost-solid material that needs to be moved, a diaphragm pump is often the only tool that will work.

Wacker Neuson PDI 3A for Abrasive Materials

Similar to the Tsurumi, the Wacker Neuson PDI 3A is another top-tier diaphragm pump, but it’s particularly well-regarded for handling abrasives. If you use sand or sawdust for bedding, you know that material ends up in your slurry. That grit acts like sandpaper inside a pump, quickly wearing down seals and impellers.

The slow, methodical action of a diaphragm pump is inherently better at handling this kind of material than a fast-spinning centrifugal pump. The Wacker Neuson is built tough, designed for construction sites and dewatering jobs, so the realities of a farm slurry pit are well within its capabilities. It can handle the muck, the grit, and the occasional forgotten stone without skipping a beat.

Again, you’re trading speed for durability and the ability to handle what other pumps can’t. It’s a specialized tool for a specific problem. If your slurry is thin and mostly liquid, this is overkill. But if you have sand-laden dairy manure or thick sludge at the bottom of a tank, this pump will save you a fortune in repairs and replacements on other equipment.

Liberty Pumps PRG101A Grinder for Tough Solids

What if your problem isn’t just liquid and grit, but also fibrous material like long hay, straw, or bedding? This is where a grinder pump is your best friend. The Liberty Pumps PRG101A features a powerful cutting system at the intake that macerates solids before they enter the pump itself.

Think of it like a garbage disposal for your manure pit. It shreds and grinds tough material into a fine slurry that can then be pumped easily, even through smaller diameter hoses and over longer distances. This prevents the clogs that plague standard pumps when dealing with fibrous waste. It’s an excellent solution for horse manure or deep-bedded pack systems.

The PRG series are submersible electric pumps, so you’ll need a power source at your pit. They are designed to be installed in a basin or tank. This isn’t a portable, pull-start-and-go solution, but for a permanent or semi-permanent setup dealing with challenging solids, a grinder pump is an elegant and highly effective solution.

Zoeller M267 Waste-Mate: A Submersible Option

For a simpler, more automated setup, a submersible effluent pump like the Zoeller M267 Waste-Mate is a fantastic choice. You simply lower the pump directly into the liquid, and it does its work quietly and efficiently. These are ideal for collection sumps or holding tanks that fill up regularly.

The M267 is a workhorse designed to handle solids up to 2 inches in diameter, making it suitable for many types of animal waste. Because it’s electric and operates below the surface, it’s much quieter than a gas engine. Many models come with an automatic float switch, so the pump will turn on by itself when the liquid reaches a certain level and shut off when it’s empty.

The main considerations are the need for electricity and the limitations on solids. While it can handle a lot, it’s not a grinder and can still be overwhelmed by heavy, fibrous material. But for a "set it and forget it" system for moving greywater or thinner slurry from a collection point, the convenience of a quality submersible pump is hard to beat.

Champion Trash Pump: Powerful and Budget-Friendly

Let’s be realistic: not everyone can justify a premium-priced pump for a job they do a few times a year. This is where a brand like Champion comes in. Their trash pumps offer impressive power and solid-handling capabilities at a fraction of the cost of a Honda or Gorman-Rupp.

You get a reliable gas engine, a durable cast-iron impeller, and the ability to move a lot of slurry, fast. For the hobby farmer who needs a capable pump but can’t stomach a four-figure price tag, a Champion pump is a smart compromise. It will handle the manure, drain a ditch, and be ready when you need it.

So what’s the catch? Longevity and refinement. It might not have the 20-year lifespan of a top-tier brand, and it may be a bit louder or vibrate more. But for the price, the performance is undeniable. If you’re on a budget but still need a serious pump, this is the category to look at. Just be diligent with maintenance to get the most life out of it.

Maintaining Your Pump for a Long, Mess-Free Life

Buying a good pump is only half the battle. A little bit of care will keep it running for years and prevent a messy failure when you need it most. The single most important thing you can do is flush it after every use.

Once you’re done pumping slurry, stick the intake hose in a trough or bucket of clean water and run the pump for a few minutes. This clears out the corrosive manure and abrasive grit from the casing, impeller, and seals. It’s a simple step that prevents a world of problems.

Beyond that, follow basic maintenance discipline.

• Check the engine oil on gas-powered models before every start.
• Periodically inspect the intake screen for damage that could let in large, destructive objects.
• Store it properly. Don’t leave it sitting out in the rain all winter. If you’re in a cold climate, make sure it’s fully drained to prevent ice from cracking the pump housing.

A pump is a simple machine, but it works in a harsh environment. Five minutes of cleanup will give you years of reliable service and save you from having to fix a manure-caked pump on a cold morning.

Ultimately, the best pump is the one that fits your farm’s scale, your manure’s consistency, and your budget. Don’t overbuy, but don’t try to make a cheap water pump do a trash pump’s job. Investing in the right tool turns a dreaded chore into a productive part of your farm’s nutrient cycle, getting that black gold out of the pit and back onto the land where it belongs.