6 Best Arborist Pruning Saws For Thick Branches That Prevent Bad Cuts
Tackle thick branches with precision. Our guide to the 6 best arborist saws highlights tools designed for clean, healthy cuts that prevent tree damage.
You’re standing in front of an old apple tree, looking up at a thick, dead branch that needs to go. Your little hand pruners won’t touch it, and a cheap hardware store saw will just chew up the bark, inviting disease. This is where a proper arborist saw proves its worth, turning a risky chore into a clean, healing cut. The right tool isn’t just about making the job easier; it’s about protecting the long-term health of your trees.
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Silky Zubat 330: Professional Grade for Clean Cuts
If you see a professional arborist, chances are they have a Silky Zubat on their hip. There’s a good reason for that. Its curved, razor-sharp blade is designed to cut on the pull stroke, using your body’s natural strength to slice through wood with surprising ease.
The real magic is in the teeth. They are impulse-hardened, meaning they stay sharp for an incredibly long time—often three times longer than conventional saws. This results in exceptionally smooth cuts that look like they were sanded. A clean cut surface allows the tree to compartmentalize the wound and heal much faster, reducing the risk of rot or insect infestation.
Is it more expensive? Yes. But consider it an investment. A Zubat will last for years and the health of your mature trees is worth far more than the cost of a good tool. This is the saw you buy when you’re done messing around with saws that bend, bind, and butcher your branches.
Corona RazorTOOTH RS 7265D: Aggressive, Fast Cuts
Sometimes, you just need to get a lot of wood removed quickly. The Corona RazorTOOTH is built for exactly that. Its aggressive, 3-sided tooth design acts like a series of tiny knives, tearing through green or dead wood with impressive speed.
This saw is a workhorse for clearing overgrown areas or removing large, non-critical limbs. The blade is chrome-plated for rust resistance and reduced friction, which helps it glide through cuts without binding up. It’s a powerful tool that feels solid in your hand and gets the job done efficiently.
The tradeoff for all that speed is a slightly rougher cut surface compared to a premium Japanese saw like the Silky. It’s still a clean cut, but not as polished. For rough clearing or firewood prep, this is a non-issue. For final pruning cuts on a prized fruit tree, you might want something with a finer finish.
Fiskars PowerTooth Saw: D-Handle for Control
The most noticeable feature of the Fiskars PowerTooth is its oversized D-handle. This isn’t just for looks; it provides excellent grip and control, especially when you’re wearing gloves or reaching for a branch at an awkward angle. It allows you to use two hands for extra power and stability on thick limbs.
The saw features a triple-ground PowerTooth blade that cuts on both the push and pull strokes, though it excels on the pull. This design helps clear sawdust from the kerf, preventing the blade from getting stuck midway through a cut. It’s a great balance of speed and control.
Fiskars offers a fantastic value proposition. It delivers performance that punches well above its price point, making it an excellent choice for a hobby farmer who needs a reliable, powerful saw without the professional-grade price tag. It’s a smart, practical tool for the majority of farmstead pruning tasks.
Felco 621 Pull-Stroke Saw: Precision on Hard Wood
Felco is legendary for its hand pruners, and that same Swiss precision carries over to their saws. The Felco 621 is a pull-stroke saw with a straight, tapered blade. This design is fantastic for getting into tight spots where a curved blade might be clumsy.
Where this saw truly shines is on old, dense hardwood. Think of a gnarled, 50-year-old pear tree or a tough oak limb. The high-quality steel and fine tooth pattern provide unmatched control, allowing you to make surgically precise cuts without chatter or vibration. It’s slower than an aggressive saw but the quality of the finish is second to none.
This isn’t your go-to for ripping through a pile of fallen branches. This is the tool you reach for when the health of the tree depends on a perfect final cut right at the branch collar. It’s about craftsmanship over brute force.
Bahco Laplander Folding Saw: Versatile Field Use
Cut wood, plastic, or bone with ease using the Bahco Laplander Folding Saw. Its rust-protected blade and comfortable two-component handle provide a secure grip for any outdoor task.
Not every pruning job is a planned event. The Bahco Laplander is the saw you can throw in your pocket or truck toolbox and forget about until you need it. Its folding design makes it safe and compact, ready for any task that pops up around the farm.
While it can handle pruning, its true strength is its versatility. Need to cut a new fence post? Clear a fallen branch from a path? Trim a root during transplanting? The Laplander does it all. Its specially coated blade resists rust and its tooth pattern is designed to work well on green wood, dry wood, and even bone or plastic.
The Laplander is not a dedicated arborist saw for shaping an entire orchard. Its shorter blade limits the diameter of branches you can tackle efficiently. But for its portability and all-around utility, it’s one of the most useful cutting tools you can own on a small farm.
Samurai Ichiban GC-330-LH: Curved for Large Limbs
The Samurai Ichiban is a powerhouse designed specifically for large-diameter branches. Its deeply curved blade is its defining feature. This aggressive curve helps the saw "bite" into the wood and keeps the teeth engaged throughout the entire pull stroke, maximizing cutting power with every movement.
This saw feels like an extension of your arm, using leverage to its advantage. When you’re high on a ladder or reaching out to a limb, the curved blade does the work of holding the saw in the cut, so you can focus on a smooth, powerful stroke. The impulse-hardened teeth are exceptionally sharp and durable, similar to other premium Japanese saws.
The Ichiban is a specialized tool. Its aggressive nature is best suited for limbs 3 inches in diameter or larger. For smaller, more delicate work, it can be overkill. But when you face a substantial branch that needs to come down, this is the saw that brings the necessary force and efficiency.
Blade Shape and TPI: Keys to a Quality Pruning Saw
Understanding two key features will help you choose the right saw for any job: blade shape and TPI. These aren’t just technical specs; they directly impact how the saw performs in the real world.
Blade shape is the most obvious difference.
- Curved blades are excellent for general-purpose pruning, especially on overhead branches. The curve helps the blade stay in the cut, using gravity and leverage to your advantage for fast, powerful strokes.
- Straight blades offer more precision and are ideal for working in tight quarters or below your shoulders. They give you pinpoint control for starting a cut exactly where you want it.
TPI stands for Teeth Per Inch. This number tells you how aggressive the saw is. A lower TPI (e.g., 6-8) means fewer, larger teeth. These saws cut very fast and aggressively but can leave a rougher finish. A higher TPI (e.g., 10-14) means more, smaller teeth, resulting in a slower, smoother, and more controlled cut. For delicate pruning on fruit trees, a higher TPI is often better. For clearing deadwood, a lower TPI gets the job done fast.
The Three-Cut Method for Safe Branch Removal
Using a great saw is only half the battle; using it correctly is what protects your tree. For any branch thicker than your wrist, the three-cut method is non-negotiable. It prevents the branch’s weight from tearing a long strip of bark off the trunk as it falls—a devastating injury for a tree.
First, make the undercut. About a foot out from the trunk, saw upward from the bottom of the branch, going about one-third of the way through. This stops a tear from running down the trunk.
Second, make the relief cut. Move an inch or two further out from your first cut and saw down from the top. Cut all the way through the branch. The branch will snap off cleanly between the two cuts, its weight now safely on the ground.
Finally, make the final cut. You’re now left with a short, lightweight stub. Make your final cut just outside the branch collar—the slightly swollen ridge where the branch meets the trunk. This angle allows the tree’s natural healing mechanisms to close over the wound properly. Never cut flush with the trunk.
Choosing the right pruning saw isn’t just about buying a tool; it’s about making a commitment to the health and structure of your trees. A sharp, well-designed saw makes clean cuts that heal quickly, preventing disease and ensuring your orchard or woodlot thrives for years to come. Invest in a good blade, learn the proper technique, and your trees will thank you for it season after season.
