6 Best Chicken Coop Wires For Predator Protection That Old Farmers Swear By

There’s no worse feeling than walking out to the coop at sunrise and seeing the aftermath of a predator attack. It’s a gut punch that every chicken keeper dreads, and it almost always comes down to one weak point in your setup. The single most important decision you’ll make for your flock’s safety is choosing the right wire, because the wrong choice is just a temporary barrier waiting to fail.

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Why Chicken Wire Fails for Predator Proofing

Let’s get one thing straight: "chicken wire" is for keeping chickens in, not for keeping predators out. The name itself is the problem. That thin, hexagonal netting is easily ripped by a determined raccoon, chewed through by a weasel, or simply pushed apart by a fox.

A raccoon can reach its dexterous paws right through the one-inch holes, grabbing and maiming a chicken roosting too close to the wall. The wire is so flimsy that a predator doesn’t even need to break it; they can often just pry it away from the wood it’s stapled to. Using chicken wire for anything other than a temporary daytime run divider is an open invitation to disaster. It is a containment tool, not a security tool.

Amagabeli 1/2" Hardware Cloth: The Gold Standard

When you need absolute, no-questions-asked security, this is what you use. Amagabeli’s 1/2-inch hardware cloth is made from heavy-gauge, double-galvanized steel wire, welded into a tight grid. The 1/2-inch openings are too small for even a small snake or weasel to squeeze through, and a raccoon’s paws can’t get a grip.

This is the material for every opening on your coop proper: windows, vents, and even the entire structure if you’re building a small tractor. The welded intersections are incredibly strong and won’t unravel like twisted chicken wire. While it is the most expensive option per foot, think of it as a one-time investment in your flock’s life insurance. You buy it once, install it right, and you sleep soundly.

YARDGARD 19-Gauge Galvanized Hardware Cloth

YARDGARD is the workhorse you’ll find at nearly every big box and farm supply store, and for good reason. Their 19-gauge, 1/2-inch hardware cloth is a reliable and accessible choice that provides excellent protection. It hits the sweet spot between cost, strength, and availability, making it a go-to for thousands of backyard coops.

The 19-gauge wire is tough enough to stop the teeth and claws of common predators like raccoons, opossums, and hawks. Like the Amagabeli, the galvanized coating prevents rust, ensuring it lasts for years against the elements. If you’re building your first secure coop and need a dependable material you can pick up this weekend, YARDGARD is a fantastic and proven option.

Everbilt Welded Wire for Secure Chicken Runs

Once you move from the coop to the attached run, you can adjust your strategy. The run’s main job is to stop larger predators during the day, so you can often use a wire with a larger mesh. Everbilt’s 2-inch by 4-inch welded wire is a solid choice for run walls because it’s strong enough to stop a dog or coyote from crashing through.

The key here is the "welded" part. Each intersection is physically bonded, creating a rigid panel that holds its shape under pressure. This is far superior to woven field fencing for a run, which can be stretched and distorted. Just remember, this wire is only for the run walls. The top of your run must be covered, and the base must be secured against diggers.

Red Brand Woven Wire for High-Pressure Areas

Sometimes the threat isn’t a clever raccoon, but a big, dumb force like a deer trying to jump a fence or livestock leaning against it. For large perimeters or pasture fencing where you need strength and a bit of flex, Red Brand’s woven wire field fence is the answer. The woven "knots" allow the fence to absorb impact without breaking.

This isn’t for your coop or primary run, but for the outer layer of defense on a larger property. It defines a safe zone and keeps bigger animals from ever getting close enough to test your coop’s main security. Combining a woven wire perimeter with a hardware cloth coop creates a layered defense system that addresses different types of predator pressure.

Fencer Wire PVC Coated for Skirts and Aprons

Predators don’t just climb and pry; they dig. A fox or coyote can excavate its way under a coop wall in minutes. The solution is a protective "apron" or "skirt" of hardware cloth laid flat on the ground around the coop’s perimeter or buried a foot deep.

For this specific job, a PVC-coated wire is your best bet. The vinyl coating provides an extra layer of protection against rust and corrosion from being in constant contact with damp soil. This dramatically extends the life of your underground barrier. Using a 1/2-inch hardware cloth for the apron ensures that even rats and weasels are stopped before they can start tunneling.

TWP 16-Gauge Welded Wire: A Heavy-Duty Option

If you live in an area with serious predator pressure—think bears, large dog packs, or exceptionally persistent coyotes—you may need to upgrade. Wire gauge is a counterintuitive measurement: the lower the number, the thicker and stronger the wire. Moving from standard 19-gauge to a heavy-duty 16-gauge wire is a significant step up in strength.

This thicker wire is much harder to cut, bend, or break. It’s often used for kennel building and is what you should consider for a run if you’ve had predators successfully damage lighter-gauge fencing. It’s more expensive and harder to work with, but for those in high-risk zones, the extra security is non-negotiable. It’s overkill for some, but essential for others.

Proper Installation: Securing Your Coop’s Wire

The world’s best wire is useless if it’s installed poorly. Predators are experts at finding the weak point, and that is almost always the edge where the wire meets the wood frame.

Never use flimsy staples. They can be pried out by a raccoon in seconds. Instead, use screws with 1/4-inch washers to secure the hardware cloth to the frame every few inches. The washer distributes the pressure and makes it nearly impossible for a predator to pull the wire loose. Overlap any seams by at least two inches and secure them tightly. Check every single edge and corner, because a predator will.

Ultimately, choosing the right wire is about matching the material to the threat and the specific part of the coop you’re protecting. It’s an investment not just in steel, but in the safety of your flock and your own peace of mind. Build it right the first time, and you won’t have to rebuild it after a tragedy.