7 Best Budget Mineral Block Holders For Chickens Old Farmers Swear By

You’ve tossed a mineral block into the corner of the run, only to find it kicked into the mud and covered in droppings a day later. Providing essential minerals is one thing, but keeping them clean and accessible is the real challenge. The right holder isn’t about fancy equipment; it’s about a simple, effective tool that saves you money and keeps your flock healthy.

Disclosure: As an Amazon Associate, this site earns from qualifying purchases. Thank you!

What to Look For in a Chicken Mineral Block Holder

The first thing to consider is how your chickens behave. Are they aggressive foragers who will knock over anything that isn’t bolted down, or are they more delicate? A flimsy holder won’t last a week with a flock of determined hens. Durability means choosing a material—metal, heavy-duty plastic, or even a solid cinder block—that can withstand constant pecking and jostling.

Next, think about placement and cleanliness. A holder that keeps the block off the ground is your best defense against contamination from mud and manure. Wall-mounted or hanging options excel here, but even a simple, elevated base makes a huge difference. Consider how easy it is to clean; a holder with complex crevices will just become a breeding ground for bacteria.

Finally, match the holder to the block. A standard 4-pound salt lick needs a completely different solution than a smaller, specialized poultry mineral block. Don’t try to force a large block into a small holder or let a small one rattle around in a big one. The right fit ensures the block is stable and wears down evenly instead of breaking into wasted chunks.

Little Giant Salt Block Holder: A Classic Choice

You’ve seen these in every farm supply store for a reason. The Little Giant holder is a simple, effective metal cage designed to hold a standard salt or mineral block. It mounts easily to a wooden post or coop wall with a few screws, keeping the block securely off the ground and away from the worst of the coop floor mess.

Its open-frame design gives chickens easy access from multiple angles, preventing a single, dominant hen from hogging the resource. While incredibly sturdy, be aware that the standard galvanized steel models can eventually rust, especially in damp climates. For a few extra dollars, look for the powder-coated versions which hold up much better over time.

Miller Manufacturing Plastic Holder for Durability

If you’re tired of rust, a heavy-duty plastic holder is an excellent alternative. Miller Manufacturing makes a molded plastic holder that won’t corrode and is incredibly easy to wash. A quick scrub with a brush and some vinegar, and it looks brand new.

The solid back and lipped front contain the block well, reducing the amount of crumbling and waste. The primary trade-off is its performance in extreme weather. In deep-freeze winter climates, the plastic can become brittle and may crack if a hen hits it hard enough. However, for most conditions, it’s a durable, low-maintenance, and budget-friendly option.

The Hanging Rope Method: A Simple DIY Solution

Sometimes the simplest solutions are the best. For the cost of a drill bit and a length of sturdy rope, you can make an effective hanging holder. Just drill a hole through the center of your mineral block, thread a tough, natural-fiber rope like sisal through it, and tie a large knot at the bottom.

Hang it from a rafter in the coop or a sturdy branch in the run, ensuring it’s at a comfortable height for your flock. This method keeps the block perfectly clean and turns it into a bit of an enrichment toy. The only downside is that a swinging block can be tricky for some birds to use, and if hung too close to a wall, it can get smeared with whatever is on that surface.

Repurposed Suet Cages for Smaller Mineral Blocks

Don’t overlook the wild bird aisle at the store. Standard suet cages, designed for holding cakes of fat for songbirds, are the perfect size for smaller, gourmet-style mineral blocks or oyster shell supplements. They are inexpensive, easy to hang, and the cage structure provides an ideal surface for chickens to peck at.

This is not a solution for a standard 4-pound block, which would break the cage immediately. But for offering a secondary, specialized supplement, it’s a fantastic trick. Ensure you buy a sturdy, all-metal suet cage, as the cheaper plastic-coated ones will be destroyed by sharp beaks in no time.

A Simple Terra Cotta Saucer for Ground Foragers

Some flocks just prefer to forage at ground level. For these birds, fighting with a wall-mounted holder is unnatural. A simple, heavy terra cotta plant saucer provides a clean, dedicated spot for a mineral block right on the ground.

The weight of the saucer keeps it from being easily tipped or pushed around, and its low profile feels natural to the birds. The key to this method is placement. Put it in a covered, dry area of the run, not out in the open where it will turn into a muddy bowl after the first rain. You’ll need to clean it out daily, but it’s a cheap and effective way to cater to your flock’s natural instincts.

Behlen Country Feeder for Secure Wall Mounting

For those who want a truly bomb-proof solution, the Behlen Country Feeder is it. While often sold as a grain or supplement feeder, this heavy-gauge steel box is perfectly sized for a standard mineral block. It bolts securely to the wall and is practically indestructible.

This is the "buy it once, cry once" option. It costs more than a simple plastic holder, but it will likely outlast your coop. Its solid construction means zero waste—the block is completely contained until it’s pecked away. This is an ideal choice for larger, more rambunctious flocks or for anyone who values extreme durability and security.

The Cinder Block Nook: A Sturdy, No-Cost Base

If you have a spare cinder block lying around, you have a free mineral block holder. Simply lay the cinder block on its side, and place the mineral block inside one of the hollows. It’s the ultimate in stability—no chicken is knocking that over.

This method keeps the block off the ground, protecting it from moisture wicking up from the earth. The concrete also provides a rough surface that helps chickens keep their beaks trim as they peck. The main drawback is that concrete is porous and difficult to truly sanitize. Place it in a high-and-dry spot and be prepared to scrub it well between mineral block changes.

Ultimately, the best mineral block holder is the one your chickens will actually use and that you can easily maintain. Whether it’s a repurposed suet cage or a heavy-duty steel feeder, the goal is the same: providing clean, constant access to vital nutrients. Observe your flock, consider your coop’s layout, and choose the simple, sturdy solution that makes the most sense for you.