6 Best Goat Skirtings for Predator Protection

You’ve spent all that time and money building the perfect goat fence, only to wake up and find dirt clawed away from the base. That sinking feeling in your stomach is a homesteader’s worst nightmare. The truth is, a tall fence only stops the jumpers; the real threat often comes from predators that dig.

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Securing Your Fence Line From Digging Predators

A fence skirting, sometimes called an apron or footer, is a barrier that extends either below ground or along the ground at the base of your fence. Its sole purpose is to stop a predator from digging its way into your pasture. Coyotes, foxes, and even determined neighborhood dogs are masters of exploiting this weakness. They’ll test a fence line until they find a spot they can breach.

Think of it this way: your main fence is for containment and visual deterrence, but the skirting is the unseen security system. It doesn’t have to be pretty, and it doesn’t have to be expensive. It just has to be tougher than the animal trying to get through it.

We’re not talking about building Fort Knox. We’re talking about making it just difficult enough that a predator decides your goats aren’t worth the effort and moves on to an easier meal. That’s the core principle of predator management on a small homestead.

1/2-Inch Hardware Cloth: A Proven Coyote Stopper

Hardware cloth is the gold standard for a reason. This rigid, galvanized steel mesh with its tiny 1/2-inch openings is nearly impossible for a predator to chew through or force a paw through. A coyote can dig at it for hours and get nothing but frustrated.

You don’t need to bury it deep. The most effective method is creating an "L-shaped" apron. Lay a 24-inch wide roll of hardware cloth flat on the ground, with one edge attached securely to the bottom of your fence and the rest extending outward into the pasture. Secure it to the ground with landscape staples. When a predator tries to dig at the fence line, it hits the mesh and its own digging instinct works against it.

The main drawback is cost. Hardware cloth isn’t cheap, but you’re paying for peace of mind. For a smaller, high-value area like a kidding pen or a night paddock, it’s an investment that pays for itself the first time it works.

Red Brand Welded Wire: A Cost-Effective Apron

If you have a long fence line to protect and the cost of hardware cloth is prohibitive, consider a roll of 2"x4" welded wire fencing. Brands like Red Brand offer a good balance of strength and affordability. While the openings are larger than hardware cloth, they are still small enough to deter most digging canids.

This material is perfect for the L-shaped apron method. Because it’s more flexible than hardware cloth, it conforms well to uneven ground. Roll it out, attach it to your fence posts or the bottom of the wire with hog rings, and stake it down firmly. The grass will grow up through it in a season, making it nearly invisible and even more secure.

This is a classic tradeoff. You’re sacrificing the near-impenetrable nature of hardware cloth for a much lower cost per foot. For general pasture protection against coyotes and stray dogs, it’s an excellent and widely used solution.

Tarter Hog Panels: A Heavy-Duty Ground Barrier

Sometimes you need overwhelming force. Hog panels are incredibly rigid, heavy-gauge wire panels that will stop anything short of a bulldozer. No coyote or dog is chewing through or bending this material.

Because of their rigidity and cost, they aren’t practical for skirting an entire multi-acre pasture. Instead, use them strategically. They are perfect for reinforcing gates, corners, or any known "hot spot" where predators have tested your fence before. You can attach a panel directly to the bottom two feet of your existing fence or even lay it flat on the ground as a super-duty apron.

Think of hog panels as targeted armor. They come in 16-foot lengths, so they are easy to transport and install in sections. For a small, critical area like the buck pen or the fence line bordering a dense wood, a few hog panels provide unmatched security.

Buried Chain Link Fabric for Lasting Security

If you value permanence and are willing to put in some serious sweat equity, burying a barrier is the ultimate solution. Old chain link fence is a fantastic material for this. It’s often available for cheap or even free on local marketplace sites from people tearing out old fences.

The process is simple but laborious: dig a trench about 12 inches deep right along your fence line. Place the chain link fabric into the trench, ensuring it sticks up a few inches above ground. Secure the top edge to your main fence and then backfill the trench.

This creates a permanent underground wall that will last for decades. A predator that starts to dig will hit an impassable metal barrier and give up. The upfront work is significant, but you’ll likely never have to think about digging predators on that fence line again.

Reclaimed Metal Roofing: The Ultimate Upcycle

Here’s the most budget-friendly option of all, provided you can source the material. Old, corrugated metal roofing is an outstanding digging barrier. It’s solid, it’s tough, and predators hate the feel of it.

Just like with chain link, the job is to bury it. Dig a trench 12 to 18 inches deep and place the sheets vertically, overlapping them slightly. Backfill the trench, packing the dirt tightly around the metal. The sharp edges and solid surface are a massive deterrent.

The biggest challenge is finding it. Keep an eye out for old barns being torn down or ask around at local farms. Be careful during installation, as the edges can be very sharp. It won’t win any beauty contests, but for pure, functional, and potentially free security, it’s hard to beat.

A Low Zareba Hot Wire to Train Predators Away

Physical barriers are great, but psychological barriers can be even better. A single, low strand of electric fencing is a powerful tool for training predators to give your fence a wide berth. It’s not about stopping them with force; it’s about teaching them with a nasty surprise.

Using offset insulators, run a single strand of polywire or steel wire about 6 inches off the ground and 6 inches out from your main fence. When a coyote or fox comes to sniff and investigate the fence line, its wet nose will touch the hot wire. That sharp, unpleasant zap from a good fence charger (like a Zareba) is something it will never forget.

This method is incredibly cost-effective for long distances and works as a fantastic first line of defense. For maximum security, combine a low hot wire with a physical skirting. The skirting provides the brute force protection if a predator is desperate enough to push through the shock.

Installing Your Skirting for Maximum Effect

How you install your skirting is just as important as what you use. There are two primary methods, and the one you choose depends on your material, soil, and time.

• The L-Footer/Apron: This involves laying your material (like hardware cloth or welded wire) flat on the ground, extending 18-24 inches out from the fence. It’s less labor-intensive than digging and uses a predator’s instinct against them. As they dig at the base of the fence, they are standing on the very thing that’s blocking them.
• The Buried Barrier: This requires digging a trench 12-18 inches deep and placing your material (like chain link or metal roofing) vertically. It’s a huge amount of work but creates a more permanent, invisible barrier.

No matter which method you choose, the most critical step is to securely attach the skirting to the bottom of your main fence. Use heavy-duty zip ties, hog rings, or lengths of wire every 12 inches. Any gap between your fence and your skirting is a vulnerability a predator will find and exploit.

Protecting your goats isn’t about one perfect solution; it’s about creating layers of deterrence. By securing the ground level of your fence, you’re closing the most common entry point for predators. Choose the method that fits your land, your budget, and your predator pressure, and you’ll sleep a lot better at night.