6 Best Refurbished Hay Elevators For Small Barns

The sun sets quickly on a haying day, and the difference between a successful harvest and a ruined crop often comes down to how fast those bales reach the loft. A reliable refurbished elevator turns a grueling, multi-person bucket brigade into a streamlined operation that saves both time and backs. For the hobby farmer, these vintage workhorses offer a cost-effective way to modernize a small barn without the staggering price tag of new implements.

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Little Giant 16-Foot Utility Elevator: Best Overall

This galvanized steel classic is the gold standard for small-scale operations due to its incredible power-to-weight ratio. While many industrial elevators are too heavy to move without a tractor, the Little Giant can be positioned by two people on level ground. Its simple chain-and-flight design is famously forgiving, handling slightly damp bales or unevenly tied squares without skipping a beat.

You should seek this model out if your barn layout requires frequent repositioning or if storage space is at a premium during the winter months. The 16-foot length is the “Goldilocks” size for most single-story lofts, providing enough reach to clear a standard door while remaining easy to tuck into a corner. Because these were produced in such high volume, finding replacement sprockets or links at a local farm supply store is rarely an issue.

The Little Giant is the right choice for the farmer who wants a “set it and forget it” machine that will likely outlast their own tenure on the land. It lacks the bells and whistles of modern hydraulic units, but its mechanical simplicity is its greatest strength. If you need a dependable, all-purpose lift for standard square bales, this is the machine to buy.

New Holland Model 155 Elevator: Top Multi-Crop Choice

New Holland has long been a leader in hay tool technology, and the Model 155 reflects that heritage through its superior trough design. Unlike flat-bed elevators, the 155 features high flared sides that keep bales centered even when the wind is kicking up or the elevator is at a steep incline. This design also makes it a viable candidate for moving ear corn or small firewood bundles, adding utility beyond the hay season.

The refurbished market often yields 155s that have been converted from PTO to electric drive, which is a major win for small barns with limited tractor access. The drive system is notably quiet, a feature you will appreciate during long hours in the confined space of a haymow. Its heavy-duty construction handles the weight of dense alfalfa bales that might cause lighter-duty frames to flex or groan.

Choose the New Holland 155 if your farm produces more than just hay or if you prioritize stability over portability. The flared trough makes it nearly impossible for a bale to tumble off the side, which is a critical safety factor when working near buildings. It is the definitive choice for the professional-minded hobbyist who demands multi-season versatility.

Smoker 24-Foot Bale Elevator: Best for High Lofts

When a barn features a high peak or a second-story mow, a standard utility elevator simply won’t reach the window. The Smoker 24-foot model is a legendary Pennsylvania-built machine designed specifically for the tall, bank-style barns common in traditional agriculture. Its elongated frame is reinforced with truss-style bracing to prevent the “bowing” effect that plagues many longer, low-quality elevators.

Operating a 24-foot machine requires more attention to physics, as the center of gravity is significantly higher than shorter models. Refurbished Smokers often come with an adjustable undercarriage that allows you to change the angle of approach based on your wagon’s height. This flexibility is essential for avoiding the steep angles that cause bales to slide backward down the chain.

If your hay storage is tucked high into the rafters, the Smoker 24 is the only tool for the job. Attempting to “bridge” two shorter elevators is a recipe for disaster and equipment damage. This machine is for the farmer with vertical ambitions who needs a stable, long-reach solution that won’t buckle under pressure.

John Deere Model 200 Elevator: Most Durable Option

The John Deere Model 200 is built with a level of “over-engineering” that is rare in modern equipment. The gauge of the steel used in the bed and the thickness of the drive chains are noticeably heavier than its competitors. This extra weight translates to a machine that stays firmly planted on the ground, resisting the vibrations that can cause lighter elevators to “walk” away from the barn wall.

Maintenance on a refurbished Model 200 is straightforward because the grease points are easily accessible and the chain tensioning system is intuitive. It’s a machine built for high-volume throughput, meaning it can handle the pace of a fast-moving crew without overheating the motor. The iconic green paint isn’t just for show; it coats a frame designed to withstand decades of exposure to dust and humidity.

You should opt for the John Deere 200 if you plan on putting up several thousand bales a year and cannot afford any downtime. While it may be heavier to move than the Little Giant, its sheer durability makes it the most reliable asset in a busy harvest window. It is the right choice for the farmer who views equipment as a multi-generational investment.

Owatonna Model 20 Elevator: Best for Tight Spaces

Small barns often come with narrow driveways and cramped entryways where a long-tongue elevator simply won’t fit. The Owatonna Model 20 is prized for its compact footprint and short turning radius, making it the king of maneuverability. The undercarriage is designed to tuck tightly under the frame, allowing you to back it into position in sheds where other machines would be stuck.

Despite its smaller stature, the Owatonna doesn’t sacrifice build quality, utilizing a robust chain drive that handles heavy grass hay with ease. The motor mount is typically positioned in a way that protects it from falling debris, a common cause of motor failure in older refurbished units. It is a “smart” design that prioritizes ergonomics and spatial efficiency.

If your farm layout feels like a puzzle, the Owatonna Model 20 is the piece that fits. It’s perfect for the part-time farmer working out of converted outbuildings or small, historic barns. If you value the ability to tuck your equipment away in a small shed at the end of the day, this is your best option.

My-D Han-D 20-Foot Elevator: Easiest to Transport

The My-D Han-D lives up to its name by offering a lightweight, aluminum-heavy construction that makes it the most portable 20-foot elevator on the market. While steel elevators can be a chore to tow, this model can be moved behind a small utility vehicle or even a heavy-duty garden tractor. This mobility is a game-changer for farmers who store hay in multiple locations across the property.

Refurbished units often feature updated wheels and axles, which is important since this machine is meant to be on the move. The aluminum bed is naturally resistant to rust, a major advantage if the elevator must be stored under a lean-to rather than in a fully enclosed shop. It provides a 20-foot reach without the 20-foot weight penalty typical of all-steel construction.

Choose the My-D Han-D if your haying operation is spread out or if you often help neighbors with their harvests. The ease of transport saves significant time and frustration during the frantic hours of a weather-dependent hay window. It is the ideal machine for the “mobile” hobby farmer who needs reach and reliability without the bulk.

Sizing Your Hay Elevator to Fit Small Barn Lofts

Choosing the right length is a matter of geometry, not just preference, as an elevator that is too short will never reach the window, and one that is too long becomes a tipping hazard. Most experts suggest the “45-degree rule,” where the elevator should never be at an angle steeper than 45 degrees to ensure bales don’t tumble backward. To find your ideal length, measure the height of your loft door and multiply it by 1.4; this gives you the minimum length needed for a safe, manageable incline.

You must also consider the “swing” area required to position the machine. A 24-foot elevator needs significant clearance to back into place, which may be impossible if your barn is situated close to a fence or another building. In tight quarters, a shorter 16-foot elevator paired with a small interior “mow conveyor” is often a more effective solution than one giant exterior unit.

Don’t forget to account for the height of your hay wagon when calculating your needs. If your elevator starts its lift from a three-foot-high wagon bed rather than the ground, you effectively gain three feet of reach. This distinction allows many small barn owners to get away with a more manageable 16-foot utility model rather than a cumbersome 20-foot version.

What to Inspect When Buying a Used Hay Elevator

When evaluating a refurbished elevator, the chain is the most critical component to inspect for wear and “stretch.” Grab a section of the chain and pull it away from the bed; if there is more than an inch of play, the links may be dangerously thin or the sprockets may be rounded off. Look closely at the “flights”—the metal bars that catch the bales—to ensure they aren’t bent, as a single crooked flight can cause the chain to jump the track under load.

The condition of the bed, or the “pan,” reveals how the machine was stored over the last few decades. Pitting and heavy rust on the bed increase friction, which forces the motor to work harder and can actually tear the twine on your bales. A smooth, galvanized surface is ideal, but a well-painted refurbished bed is also acceptable if the surface is slick to the touch.

Check the motor and the drive belt system for signs of “backyard engineering.” Ensure the motor is properly shielded from hay chaff, which is highly flammable and a common cause of farm fires. If the machine is PTO-driven, inspect the universal joints for play and ensure the safety shields are intact; a naked spinning PTO shaft is a life-threatening hazard that should never be tolerated.

Essential Maintenance for Older Hay Elevator Chains

Proper lubrication is the secret to making an old elevator last another thirty years, but using the wrong oil can do more harm than good. Avoid heavy greases that attract dust and grit, creating an abrasive paste that eats away at the metal. Instead, use a “dry” chain lube or a light coating of vegetable oil if you are concerned about contaminating the hay, applying it while the chain is moving slowly.

Tensioning the chain is a seasonal task that must be performed before the first bale of the summer hits the bed. Most elevators have adjustment bolts at the top or bottom of the frame that allow you to pull the slack out of the loop. A chain that is too tight will snap under the weight of a bale, while a loose chain will eventually “climb” the sprocket and jam the entire machine.

Off-season storage is where most elevators meet their end, as water trapped in the links leads to “frozen” joints that snap upon spring startup. If possible, store the elevator vertically or under a heavy tarp, and always run the chain for five minutes after the last load of the year to shake off any moisture-retaining debris. A quick spray of rust inhibitor on the sprocket teeth before winter can save hours of frustration the following June.

Safe Operating Practices for Small Farm Hay Crews

Safety on a hay elevator begins with proper grounding and electrical management, especially when using electric motors in a barn full of dry tinder. Always use a heavy-gauge, outdoor-rated extension cord to prevent voltage drops that can overheat the motor and start a fire. Ensure the motor is plugged into a GFCI-protected outlet to guard against shocks, particularly if the ground is damp from a passing summer shower.

Clear communication between the person on the wagon and the person in the loft is the only way to prevent “bale jams” at the top of the lift. If the person in the loft falls behind, the person on the wagon must stop loading immediately to prevent a pile-up that could tip the elevator or burn out the drive belt. Hand signals or a simple “stop” whistle are effective tools for cutting through the noise of the motor and the rustle of the hay.

Finally, never attempt to clear a jam or adjust a chain while the motor is running or the PTO is engaged. It only takes a split second for a glove or a loose shirt sleeve to be pulled into a sprocket, leading to catastrophic injury. Establish a “lockout” rule where the power cord is physically unplugged before anyone puts their hands near the moving parts of the machine.

Properly selected and maintained, a refurbished hay elevator is the most valuable “employee” on a small farm. By matching the machine’s reach to your barn’s geometry and committing to basic chain maintenance, you can ensure your harvest is secured safely and efficiently for years to come.