8 Supplies for Building a Nesting Box Bank for Layers

You reach into the corner of the coop, past a roosting bar and under a dusty ledge, to retrieve a half-broken egg. Another one is tucked behind the waterer, covered in shavings and droppings. Building a dedicated nesting box bank isn’t just about convenience; it’s about creating a clean, safe, and predictable place for your hens to lay, which translates directly to cleaner eggs and healthier birds.

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Planning Your Nesting Box Bank Layout

Before you make a single cut, sketch out your design. The standard rule of thumb is one nesting box for every four to five hens. A common and effective size for each individual box is a 12x12x12 inch cube, which is comfortable for most standard breeds like Leghorns, Wyandottes, and Orpingtons. Bantam breeds can get by with slightly smaller boxes, while larger birds like Jersey Giants may appreciate a 14-inch cube.

Consider how the boxes will be arranged. A horizontal bank is simple to build, but a stacked, two-high unit can save valuable floor space in a smaller coop. If you stack them, be sure to offset the entrances so droppings from the top row don’t fall into the bottom one. Also, plan for a small lip or perch—about 4 inches deep—across the front of the boxes. This gives hens a place to land before entering and helps keep bedding material inside.

Finally, think about cleaning. Will you be able to easily reach into the back of each box to scoop out old bedding? Building the entire bank as a single, sturdy unit that can be secured to a wall makes it stable and prevents it from tipping. A slightly sloped roof on the top of the unit is also a smart addition, as it discourages hens from roosting on top of the boxes and soiling them from above.

Plywood – Georgia-Pacific 3/4-in Sanded Plywood

The foundation of your nesting box bank is the wood, and 3/4-inch plywood is the ideal material for the job. Its thickness provides the structural rigidity needed to prevent sagging over time, especially if you plan on stacking units. A flimsy box will quickly become a broken box in an active chicken coop.

The specific choice of Georgia-Pacific Sanded Plywood is deliberate. The "sanded" designation is critical—it means the surface is smooth and free of the rough patches and potential splinters found on cheaper sheathing-grade plywood. This is safer for your hens and makes the finished boxes much easier to wipe down and clean. One 4×8-foot sheet is typically enough to build a bank of four to six standard-sized nesting boxes, making it a cost-effective choice for a durable, long-term solution.

Keep in mind that this is an interior-grade material. It’s perfect for use inside a coop, protected from rain and direct sun, but it is not suitable for outdoor applications without extensive sealing. A full sheet is heavy and unwieldy, so plan on bringing a truck for transport and having a helper to unload it, or ask the hardware store to make a few initial cuts for you to make it more manageable.

Tape Measure – Stanley FATMAX Classic Tape Measure

"Measure twice, cut once" is more than just a saying; it’s the rule that prevents wasted material and crooked projects. A reliable tape measure is your most important tool for accuracy, and the Stanley FATMAX is the undisputed champion for workshop and farm projects. Its key feature is the extra-wide blade with up to 11 feet of standout, meaning it can extend far without bending or collapsing. This is incredibly helpful when you’re working alone and need to measure across a large 4×8 sheet of plywood.

The markings on the FATMAX are large, clear, and easy to read, reducing the chance of measurement errors. The durable case can handle being dropped, and the blade lock is strong and reliable, holding your measurement securely while you mark your cut line. A 25-foot length is the sweet spot—long enough for almost any coop-building task without being overly bulky.

This isn’t a tool to skimp on. A cheap, flimsy tape measure will bend, its markings will wear off, and its hook will be inaccurate. The FATMAX is a foundational tool that you’ll use for countless other projects around the farm. It’s built for anyone who needs to rely on their measurements to be consistently accurate, from the first cut to the last.

Speed Square – Swanson Tool Co. 7-inch Speed Square

A tape measure gets you the right length, but a Speed Square ensures your lines are perfectly straight and your corners are true 90-degree angles. Without it, you’re just guessing at what "square" is, and your nesting boxes will end up wobbly and misaligned. The Speed Square is essential for marking precise cut lines for your circular saw to follow.

The Swanson Tool Co. 7-inch Speed Square is the original and the industry standard. Made from a thick, heavy-gauge aluminum alloy, it won’t bend, break, or lose its accuracy like a plastic square might. Its 7-inch size is perfect for hooking onto the edge of 3/4-inch plywood to quickly mark a perpendicular line. It also includes markings for common angles and can be used as a saw guide for short, precise cross-cuts.

While it’s a simple tool, take a moment to learn its features. The diamond-shaped cutout and pivot point allow you to mark any angle from 0 to 90 degrees, and the scribing notches are perfect for marking lines parallel to the edge of the board. This tool is non-negotiable for anyone building with wood. It’s the simple, indestructible device that guarantees a professional and sturdy result.

Circular Saw – DeWalt 20V MAX 7-1/4-Inch Circular Saw

Breaking down a full sheet of plywood into manageable pieces requires a power saw, and a circular saw is the right tool for the job. It’s powerful enough for straight, fast cuts and more portable than a table saw. The DeWalt 20V MAX 7-1/4-Inch Circular Saw offers the perfect balance of power and convenience for this kind of project.

The biggest advantage here is that it’s cordless. You won’t be dragging a cord across the workshop floor or trying to find an outlet near your coop. The 7-1/4-inch blade is the standard size, offering plenty of cutting depth for 3/4-inch plywood. DeWalt’s 20V MAX battery platform is also a huge plus; if you have other DeWalt tools, the batteries are interchangeable. The saw is well-balanced and includes essential safety features like a blade guard and an electric brake that stops the blade quickly when you release the trigger.

Be aware that this is often sold as a "bare tool," meaning the battery and charger are sold separately. For the best results, pair the saw with a fine-toothed plywood blade (around 140 teeth) to minimize tear-out and get cleaner edges. This saw is for the hobby farmer who plans to tackle more than one project. Its power and portability make it a versatile workhorse for repairs and new builds all over the property.

Pro Tip: Pre-Drill to Prevent Wood Splitting

One of the most common mistakes when working with plywood is driving a screw too close to an edge, causing the wood layers to split apart. This creates a weak joint and a frustrating setback. The solution is simple: pre-drill every single screw hole.

To do this, choose a drill bit that is slightly smaller in diameter than the shank of your wood screw (not the threads). Drilling a pilot hole gives the screw threads something to bite into while removing enough material to prevent the pressure of the screw from splitting the wood. This step is especially critical on the corners of your nesting boxes, where multiple pieces of plywood come together.

It may feel like an extra, time-consuming step, but it’s the secret to strong, durable joints that will withstand years of use. It also makes driving the screws much easier, as the drill has to do less work. A few extra seconds spent pre-drilling each hole will save you the headache of split wood and a weak final product.

Cordless Drill – Makita 18V LXT Cordless Drill/Driver

You’ll need a reliable drill for two key jobs: pre-drilling your pilot holes and driving in all the screws that hold your nesting boxes together. The Makita 18V LXT Cordless Drill/Driver is an outstanding choice for its blend of power, ergonomic design, and legendary durability. This is a tool you’ll be reaching for constantly, so comfort and performance matter.

Makita is known for building tools that feel good in the hand, and this drill is no exception. It’s powerful enough to drill through dense plywood without bogging down, yet it’s lightweight enough to reduce fatigue when you’re assembling a large bank of boxes. The brushless motor is a key feature, offering more power and significantly longer run time per battery charge compared to older brushed motors—a huge plus when you’re working away from a charger.

Like other pro-grade cordless tools, you’ll need to be invested in the Makita 18V battery system. The adjustable clutch is a feature you must learn to use; set it to a lower number to stop the screw from turning once it’s snug, preventing you from over-driving it and stripping the wood. This drill is for the builder who wants a high-performance, long-lasting tool that can handle assembly, repairs, and installations all around the farm.

Wood Screws – Deckmate #8 x 1-5/8 in. Star Flat Head

The fasteners you choose are just as important as the wood. You need a screw that will hold tight, resist corrosion, and be easy to drive. Deckmate #8 x 1-5/8 in. Star Flat Head screws are a perfect fit for assembling 3/4-inch plywood nesting boxes. The 1-5/8 inch length is ideal for joining two 3/4-inch pieces, providing maximum hold without poking through the other side.

The two most important features are the coating and the drive type. These screws are coated for exterior use, which means they’ll resist rust and corrosion in the humid environment of a chicken coop. Even more critical is the star drive (also called Torx) head. Unlike traditional Phillips head screws that are prone to "cam-out" (where the bit slips out and strips the screw head), the star drive provides a secure, positive engagement. This makes driving screws faster, easier, and far less frustrating.

Always use the star drive bit that comes in the box for a perfect fit. Buying a one-pound box is far more economical than purchasing small packs and ensures you’ll have plenty on hand for this project and future repairs. These screws are for anyone who has ever been frustrated by a stripped screw head and wants an assembly process that is smooth and efficient.

Orbital Sander – Bosch ROS20VSC Random Orbit Sander

After all your pieces are cut, the edges will be sharp and potentially splintery. Running a sander over every surface and edge is a crucial step for safety—both for you during assembly and for your hens for years to come. An orbital sander makes this process fast and effective, and the Bosch ROS20VSC Random Orbit Sander is a top performer in its class.

What sets a random orbit sander apart is its motion; it spins the sanding disc while also moving it in small ellipses, eliminating the swirl marks that simpler sanders can leave behind. The Bosch model excels with its variable speed control, allowing you to be gentle on corners while using a higher speed for flat surfaces. It also features a superior dust collection system that, when attached to a shop vacuum, captures the vast majority of sawdust, keeping your workspace cleaner and the air healthier.

You will need to buy sanding discs separately; a pack of 120-grit discs is a good starting point for smoothing plywood edges. While you could technically sand the boxes by hand, the time and effort saved by a tool like this are immense. This sander is for the builder who wants a professional, splinter-free finish and values a clean, efficient workflow.

Wood Sealant – Real Milk Paint Co. Pure Tung Oil

The inside of a nesting box needs to be durable and easy to clean, but it also has to be completely safe for your hens. This is not the place for polyurethane or chemical-heavy deck sealers. Real Milk Paint Co. Pure Tung Oil is the ideal solution because it is a 100% natural, non-toxic, and food-safe wood finish once it has fully cured.

Tung oil works by penetrating deep into the wood fibers and then hardening, creating a waterproof and resilient surface from within. This is different from film-forming finishes that sit on the surface and can chip or peel over time. A tung oil finish makes the plywood easy to wipe down, helps prevent mites from burrowing into the wood, and won’t release any harmful fumes that could affect your flock’s respiratory health.

Application requires some patience. You’ll need to apply several thin coats, wiping off the excess after each one. The most important consideration is the cure time, which can be up to 30 days. You must plan ahead and allow the nesting boxes to cure completely in a well-ventilated area before introducing them to the coop. This sealant is for the flock owner who prioritizes animal safety and sustainability above all else.

Finishing Touches for a Hen-Friendly Design

With the basic structure built, a few small details can make a big difference in how well your hens take to their new boxes. First, add a perch or landing rail along the front of the boxes, about 4-6 inches below the entrance. This gives the birds a place to hop up before entering, which can prevent frantic scrambling that leads to broken eggs.

Second, if your nesting bank is a standalone unit, make sure the roof is built at a steep angle (at least 45 degrees). Chickens love to roost on the highest available surface, and a flat-topped nesting box will quickly become their favorite nighttime spot, resulting in a roof covered in droppings. A steep slope makes it uncomfortable and encourages them to use their actual roosting bars instead.

Finally, consider adding some simple curtains. A strip of burlap or dark fabric hung over the entrance of each box creates a darker, more private, and secure-feeling environment. Hens are naturally drawn to secluded spots for laying, and this small addition can significantly increase the chances that they’ll choose the nesting box over a hidden corner of the coop.

Installing and Preparing Your New Nesting Boxes

Placement within the coop is key. Chickens prefer to lay their eggs in a quiet, calm, and relatively dark area. Install your nesting box bank along a wall that is away from the main door and the hustle and bustle of the feed and water stations. Secure the unit firmly to the wall studs to ensure it cannot be tipped over by a boisterous hen or a curious predator. The boxes should be elevated off the floor by at least 18 inches but low enough for the hens to access easily.

Once the bank is installed, it’s time to make it inviting. Fill each box with a deep, fluffy layer of nesting material. Pine shavings or clean straw are excellent choices. The bedding should be at least 4-6 inches deep to provide a soft cushion for the eggs and allow the hen to nestle in comfortably.

If you have young pullets that are just about to start laying, you can encourage them to use the boxes by placing a fake or "dummy" egg in a few of them. This signals to them that this is the correct place to lay. Be sure to check the boxes daily and keep the bedding clean and dry, replacing it whenever it becomes soiled. A well-placed and well-prepared nesting box is the final step to ensuring a steady supply of clean, fresh eggs.

Building your own nesting box bank is a deeply satisfying project that pays dividends every morning. With the right materials and a few reliable tools, you can create a functional, durable, and safe space that your hens will use for years. The result is not just a better-organized coop, but the simple, daily reward of collecting clean, perfect eggs.