8 Pieces of Gear for a Successful Summer Haying

The smell of freshly cut grass baking in the summer sun is one of the great rewards of rural life. That scent means you’re building a stockpile of stored sunshine to feed your animals through the winter. Making your own hay is a foundational skill for any small farm or homestead, but it can quickly turn from a satisfying harvest into a grueling ordeal without the right equipment.

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Gearing Up for Your Small-Scale Hay Harvest

Making hay is a multi-step process: cutting, curing (drying), gathering, and storing. For a small-scale operation—anywhere from a large backyard to a few acres—you don’t need a fleet of tractors and balers. What you do need is a set of carefully chosen tools that are efficient, durable, and suited to the human scale of the work.

This list focuses on high-quality, long-lasting gear that makes the process manageable and even enjoyable. It covers both the traditional hand-tool route and a sensible mechanized option for those with a bit more ground to cover. Investing in the right tools from the start saves you time, frustration, and the cost of replacing cheap equipment that fails mid-season.

Scythe – Fux 75cm Ditch Blade Scythe Outfit

The scythe is the original hay-making tool, and for good reason. It’s silent, requires no fuel, and can cut in places no mower can reach—along fences, on steep banks, or in tight orchards. A modern Austrian-style scythe is a lightweight, ergonomic tool that, when used properly, is remarkably efficient for cutting small fields up to an acre or two.

The Fux 75cm Ditch Blade Scythe Outfit is an ideal starting point. It’s a complete package with a versatile, robust blade and a fully adjustable wooden snath (handle) to fit your body perfectly. The 75cm "ditch" blade is a workhorse, tough enough to handle thick, stemmy growth but long enough to make good time in an open field. Unlike flimsy hardware store scythes, this is a precision tool designed for serious work.

Using a scythe effectively is a skill that requires practice; it’s more of a dance than a brute-force swing. The most critical aspect is maintaining a razor-sharp edge. This means learning to peen (cold-hammer the edge) occasionally and whet (sharpen with a stone) frequently in the field. This scythe is for the homesteader who values self-sufficiency and works on a scale where a large machine is overkill. It is not for someone trying to hay ten acres in a weekend.

Sickle Bar Mower – BCS 739 with Sickle Bar

For those with more than a couple of acres, a mechanized cutter is a practical necessity. A sickle bar mower is the right machine for the job, as it cuts hay cleanly at the base without shredding it like a standard rotary or flail mower. This clean cut is essential for quick, even drying and preserves the nutritional quality of the forage.

The BCS 739 walk-behind tractor with a sickle bar attachment is the gold standard for small-farm haying. The 739 model offers a great balance of power and maneuverability, with a differential drive that makes turning at the end of a row significantly easier. The real value of the BCS system is its versatility; the tractor is a power unit for dozens of other attachments, from a rotary plow to a snow blower, making the substantial investment much easier to justify.

This is a serious piece of equipment that demands respect and regular maintenance. You’ll need to learn how to operate it safely, especially on slopes. The sickle bar itself has many moving parts that require cleaning and occasional replacement. This machine is for the serious homesteader or small-scale farmer who needs to cut several acres of hay efficiently and may have other tasks for a powerful walk-behind tractor.

Whetstone – Rozsutec Combination Sharpening Stone

Whether you use a scythe or a sickle bar mower, your cutting edge must be sharp. A dull blade tears and bruises the grass, requiring more energy from you or your machine and resulting in a ragged cut that dries poorly. Frequent honing in the field is non-negotiable, and for that, you need a proper whetstone.

The Rozsutec Combination Sharpening Stone is a classic choice for good reason. It’s a natural stone with a coarse side for quickly restoring an edge and a fine side for honing it to a razor finish. Used with water, it’s carried in a small holder on your belt, allowing you to pause for 30 seconds every 5-10 minutes of scything to touch up the blade. This constant maintenance is the secret to effortless cutting.

This stone is for honing, not for major repairs or establishing the initial edge on a scythe blade—that process is called peening. Learning the correct sharpening angle and motion takes a little practice, but it quickly becomes second nature. For anyone using a scythe, this tool is not optional; it is an essential part of the system.

Hay Rake – Lehman’s 16-Tine Wooden Hay Rake

Once the hay is cut and has had time to dry, it needs to be raked. Raking serves two purposes: first, to fluff and turn the hay for even curing (a process called tedding), and second, to gather the dry hay into long piles called windrows for easy collection. A proper hay rake makes this work light and efficient.

Lehman’s 16-Tine Wooden Hay Rake is a perfect example of a tool that has not been improved upon by modern technology for small-scale work. It is incredibly lightweight, which matters immensely when you’re spending hours raking under the sun. The wooden tines are flexible and gentle on the hay, gathering it cleanly without snagging. Its wide head covers far more ground than a standard garden or leaf rake.

This is a manual tool, so it’s best suited for areas up to a few acres. Like any wooden tool, it should be stored out of the elements to ensure a long life. For the small-scale haymaker, its simplicity, effectiveness, and low cost make it an indispensable part of the toolkit.

Pitchfork – Bully Tools 5-Tine Long Handle Fork

The pitchfork is the primary tool for moving hay—from the windrow into a cart, from the cart into the barn, or for building a freestanding haystack. A cheap, flimsy fork will quickly fail under the weight of dense hay, making a good one a wise investment. It’s an extension of your body during one of the most physically demanding parts of the process.

The Bully Tools 5-Tine Long Handle Fork is built for serious agricultural work. Its welded, all-steel construction ensures the head will never detach from the handle, a common failure point on cheaper forks. The fiberglass handle is a significant upgrade over wood, as it won’t splinter, crack, or rot. The 5-tine design is ideal for moving large quantities of loose, dry hay efficiently.

The long handle provides excellent leverage, allowing you to lift and toss hay with your legs and core, saving your back from strain. This tool is a must-have for anyone making any amount of hay. It is the fundamental tool for handling your harvest once it’s cured and raked.

Moisture Meter – Agratronix HT-PRO Hay Moisture Tester

Guessing when your hay is dry enough to store is a dangerous game. Hay baled or stacked with a moisture content above 20% will mold, losing its nutritional value and becoming useless as feed. Worse, the biological activity in damp hay generates immense heat, creating a very real risk of spontaneous combustion that can burn down a barn.

An electronic moisture meter removes the guesswork and is one of the most important safety tools in haymaking. The Agratronix HT-PRO is a durable, probe-style tester designed for field use. Simply push the 20-inch steel probe into a windrow or a test bale to get an instant, accurate moisture reading. Its simple, reliable operation and clear display make it easy to determine precisely when your hay is ready for storage.

You’ll need to take multiple readings throughout the field to get a representative average, as drying rates can vary. While it may seem like an expensive gadget, a moisture meter is a small price to pay for the peace of mind that comes with knowing your entire winter’s supply of feed is stored safely. It’s a critical tool for anyone serious about producing high-quality hay.

Work Gloves – Carhartt System 5 Work Glove

Haying is tough on the hands. Between the repetitive motion of tool handles and the abrasive texture of dry hay stems, a good pair of work gloves is essential for preventing blisters and scrapes. They allow you to work longer and more comfortably.

The Carhartt System 5 Work Glove strikes an excellent balance between protection and dexterity. The durable synthetic palm provides a fantastic grip on tool handles, while the breathable, flexible back keeps your hands from getting overly sweaty. Unlike bulky, stiff leather gloves, these offer enough feel to handle tools with precision.

A proper fit is crucial; gloves that are too large will bunch up and cause blisters, while gloves that are too tight will be uncomfortable. Even the best gloves will eventually wear out with heavy use, so consider them a recurring investment in your comfort and safety in the hayfield.

Hay Tarp – FarmTek Dura-Last 20 Mil Hay Tarp

If you don’t have enough room in a barn or shed, you’ll need to store your hay outside in a stack. Leaving a stack uncovered is not an option; a single rainstorm can ruin the outer layers and send moisture deep into the pile, causing spoilage. A high-quality, durable tarp is the only way to protect your hard-won harvest from the elements.

The FarmTek Dura-Last 20 Mil Hay Tarp is specifically designed for this purpose. Standard blue tarps from the hardware store are too thin and will degrade quickly under UV exposure. This tarp’s heavy-duty 20 mil, UV-treated material is built to last for multiple seasons out in the sun and weather. It features reinforced grommets and seams to withstand the stress of being tied down securely against the wind.

When building your stack, ensure it has a peaked top to shed water effectively. The tarp must be secured tightly with ropes or straps to prevent wind from getting underneath it. For anyone storing hay outdoors, a high-quality tarp isn’t just a cover; it’s the insurance policy that guarantees your hay remains valuable feed all winter long.

Tips for Timing Your Cut and Curing Hay

The quality of your hay is determined long before you ever rake it. Timing the cut is crucial. For maximum nutritional value, you want to cut grasses when they have formed seed heads but before the seeds have fully matured and dropped—a stage often called the "boot stage." Cutting too early reduces your yield, while cutting too late results in less nutritious, stemmy hay.

The most important factor in curing hay is the weather. You need a reliable forecast for at least three to five consecutive hot, dry, and breezy days. Cut the hay on the morning of the first day after the dew has burned off. Let it lie flat to wilt for a day. On the second day, use your rake to gently fluff and turn the hay (tedding) to expose the damp underside to the sun and air.

On the third or fourth day, once the hay feels dry and "crispy" to the touch, rake it into long, loose windrows. This shape allows air to circulate through the pile for final curing. This is when you’ll use your moisture meter, taking readings from the center of the windrows until the moisture content is consistently below 20%. Only then is it safe to gather and store.

Staying Safe and Hydrated in the Hayfield

Haymaking is strenuous work performed during the hottest part of the year. Overheating and dehydration are serious risks. Begin hydrating the day before you plan to work, and drink water consistently throughout the day in the field—don’t wait until you feel thirsty.

Protect yourself from the sun. Wear a wide-brimmed hat, sunglasses, and lightweight, long-sleeved clothing. Pay attention to your body; if you feel dizzy, lightheaded, or stop sweating, get into the shade immediately. When using machinery like a BCS tractor, be aware of your surroundings, especially on uneven ground. When using hand tools, focus on using good body mechanics—lift with your legs, not your back, and use the rhythmic motion of the scythe to avoid strain.

Storing Your Hay for Winter-Long Quality

Proper storage is the final step to preserving the value of your hay. The two primary enemies of stored hay are moisture and heat. Your storage area must protect the hay from rain, snow, and ground moisture while allowing for some air circulation to dissipate any residual heat and moisture.

If storing hay in a barn or shed, stack it on top of wooden pallets or a thick bed of old, sacrificial straw to prevent moisture from wicking up from the floor. Don’t pack the bales or loose hay so tightly against the walls or ceiling that air cannot move. When stacking outdoors, choose a high, well-drained location. Shape the stack like a loaf of bread with a crowned top, and cover it securely with your heavy-duty tarp, ensuring the edges are weighted down so wind cannot lift it.

Bringing in the last of the hay is a moment of profound satisfaction, marking the end of a season’s work and the security of having feed for the months ahead. It’s a timeless agricultural rhythm that connects you directly to your land and your animals. With the right gear and techniques, making hay on a small scale is not just possible, but one of the most rewarding jobs on the farm.