7 Items for Setting Up an Automatic Game Feeder

Setting up an automatic game feeder seems simple until you’re standing in a field with a dead battery, clogged spinner, and feed scattered everywhere by raccoons. A reliable feeder isn’t just one piece of equipment; it’s a complete system where every component has to pull its weight. Get the setup right the first time, and you’ll have a dependable tool for managing wildlife on your property for years to come.

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Essential Gear for Your Automatic Game Feeder

Building a dependable feeder is about choosing compatible, durable parts that can withstand the elements and persistent critters. You are essentially assembling a small, automated machine that needs to operate unattended for weeks or months. The core system consists of a hopper to hold the feed, a timer and motor to dispense it, legs for stability, a power source, and a way to protect it all from weather and varmints.

Cutting corners on any single component is a recipe for failure. A cheap hopper will crack under UV exposure, a weak motor will jam with certain types of feed, and a feeder without a varmint guard is just a free-for-all buffet for squirrels and raccoons. The goal is to build a "set-it-and-forget-it" system that you can trust to work, saving you wasted trips, feed, and frustration.

Feeder Kit – Moultrie All-in-One Timer Kit

The feeder kit is the heart and brain of your operation, containing the digital timer, motor, and spinner plate that control when and how much feed is dispensed. It’s the component that does the actual work, so reliability is non-negotiable. A faulty timer or a weak motor means your entire setup is useless.

The Moultrie All-in-One Timer Kit is the right choice because it packages a programmable digital timer, a durable housing, and a reliable motor into a single, easy-to-install unit. Its timer allows for up to four feed times per day, with adjustable run times from 1 to 20 seconds, giving you precise control over consumption. The whole assembly attaches directly to the bottom of most standard hoppers with included hardware, removing the guesswork of matching separate components.

This kit is built for practicality. The plastic housing is weather-resistant, and the spinner plate includes raised edges that help prevent wind from robbing you of feed. It’s designed to run on a 6-volt battery, which has become the standard for this type of equipment. This kit is perfect for anyone who wants a proven, straightforward solution without the headache of piecing together a motor and timer from scratch.

Feed Hopper – Boss Buck 200 lb. Capacity Hopper

The hopper’s job is simple: hold the feed and keep it dry. But it’s also the part of the feeder most exposed to the elements, so material and build quality are paramount. A flimsy barrel will degrade in the sun, leak at the seams, and become a long-term problem.

For this, the Boss Buck 200 lb. Capacity Hopper is an excellent investment. It’s made from a thick, UV-stabilized, roto-molded polymer—the same kind of durable plastic used for high-end coolers and kayaks. It won’t rust like steel or become brittle and crack like cheap plastic barrels. The one-piece, seamless construction means there are no weak points for water to get in, ensuring your feed stays dry and free of mold.

The 200-pound capacity strikes a perfect balance for most small properties, holding enough feed to last for several weeks without being too heavy for one person to manage during setup. The hopper has a specially designed bottom cone that funnels feed efficiently, preventing the bridging and clogging that can happen with flat-bottomed containers. If you want a hopper that will likely outlast every other component of your feeder, this is the one to get.

Feeder Legs – American Hunter Tripod Feeder Legs

A feeder full of 200 pounds of corn is a top-heavy, tempting target for livestock and determined wildlife. The legs provide the foundation, and stability is their only job. Flimsy, thin-walled poles will bend, buckle, or rust out, leading to a feeder on its side and a massive waste of feed.

The American Hunter Tripod Feeder Legs are a no-nonsense solution. They are simple, sectional steel poles that are strong enough to support a fully loaded 200- or 350-pound hopper without issue. The sectional design makes them easier to transport in a vehicle than full-length pipes, and they assemble quickly with simple hardware.

Before buying, double-check the connection type. These legs are designed to slide into square or round leg stubs or brackets common on many hoppers, including the Boss Buck. Ensure the diameter and shape match your hopper’s mounting points. For maximum stability, place the feeder on level ground and consider driving a T-post next to one leg and strapping it to the post for extra security in high-wind areas or pastures with curious cattle.

Power Source – Moultrie 6-Volt Rechargeable Battery

Your feeder’s timer and motor are useless without a reliable power source. While you can use disposable batteries, they are a false economy, requiring frequent replacement and creating unnecessary waste. A rechargeable battery is the only sustainable and practical choice for a long-term feeder setup.

The Moultrie 6-Volt 5-Amp Rechargeable Battery is the industry standard for a reason. It’s a sealed lead-acid (SLA) battery that delivers consistent power and is designed to handle the charge/discharge cycle of a feeder connected to a solar panel. Its 5-amp hour capacity provides plenty of juice to keep a timer running and a motor spinning for weeks, even on cloudy days when a solar panel isn’t at peak performance.

This battery is compact enough to fit inside the housing of most feeder kits, including the recommended Moultrie All-in-One. Always give a new rechargeable battery a full 24-hour charge with a wall charger before its first use in the field. This initial conditioning ensures it reaches its maximum performance and lifespan.

Solar Charger – Wildgame Innovations 6V/12V Solar Panel

A rechargeable battery will eventually run down, and the last thing you want is a dead feeder two weeks into a month-long cycle. A solar panel eliminates this problem, constantly trickling a charge into the battery on sunny days. It transforms your feeder from a system with a limited lifespan to a truly autonomous, long-term tool.

The Wildgame Innovations 6V/12V Solar Panel is an effective and versatile choice. It’s specifically designed for outdoor gear and comes with a weather-resistant housing and a mounting bracket that makes it easy to attach to the top or side of your feeder. The key feature here is its ability to work with both 6-volt and 12-volt systems, making it a versatile accessory you can use on other equipment if you ever change your setup.

For best results, mount the panel where it will receive the most direct sunlight throughout the day, typically facing south and clear of overhanging branches. The included alligator clips connect directly to your battery terminals, and built-in overcharge protection prevents it from damaging the battery. This small addition is the key to year-round reliability.

Tips for Assembling and Placing Your Feeder

Assembling a feeder is straightforward, but a few details make a big difference. Always assemble the feeder kit and varmint guard onto the hopper before attaching the legs. It’s much easier to work on the hopper when it’s on the ground or the tailgate of a truck than when it’s six feet in the air. Once the legs are on, have a second person help you stand it up to avoid putting excessive stress on a single leg joint.

Placement is critical for success. Choose a location on level ground to ensure the feeder is stable. Position it in a clearing or along a known travel corridor, but avoid placing it directly under trees with low-hanging branches that could interfere with the spin cast. Consider the prevailing wind direction; you want the feed to be thrown into the clearing, not back against the feeder legs. Finally, think about your access route—place it where you can refill it with minimal disturbance to the area.

Varmint Guard – Moultrie Universal Varmint Guard

A feeder without a varmint guard is an open invitation for raccoons, squirrels, and birds to steal feed and destroy your equipment. These animals can quickly learn to hang off the spinner plate, causing it to spin freely and empty hundreds of pounds of feed in a single night. A varmint guard is not an optional accessory; it is an essential piece of armor.

The Moultrie Universal Varmint Guard is a simple, effective cage that bolts onto the bottom of your feeder, enclosing the spinner mechanism. Its design prevents animals from reaching the spinner plate while still allowing feed to be cast out freely. Made of durable, powder-coated steel, it can withstand years of abuse from weather and determined critters.

This guard is "universal" and designed to fit most Moultrie feeders and many other brands with a similar mounting pattern. Installation is as simple as drilling a few holes and securing it with the included hardware. Don’t even think about filling your feeder until a varmint guard is installed—it will pay for itself by preventing a single instance of feed theft.

Game Feed – Purina AntlerMax Deer 20 Pellets

The type of feed you use directly impacts both the health of the wildlife and the reliability of your feeder. While whole corn is the cheapest and most common option, it can absorb moisture, swell, and clog your feeder’s funnel and spinner. It also offers limited nutritional value.

Purina AntlerMax Deer 20 Pellets are a superior choice for automatic feeders. These pellets are formulated with 20% protein, vitamins, and minerals, providing far better nutrition than corn alone. More importantly for your equipment, the pellets are uniform in size and have a water-resistant coating that helps them flow smoothly and resist the clumping and molding that plagues corn in humid weather.

Using a high-quality pelleted feed reduces the chance of jams and ensures your feeder operates reliably between visits. While it costs more per bag than corn, the improved feeder performance and nutritional benefit make it a worthwhile upgrade. You’ll spend less time clearing clogs and provide a better supplement for the wildlife on your property.

Programming Your Feeder’s Digital Timer

The digital timer allows you to dictate the feeding schedule, conditioning wildlife to visit at specific times. The most effective strategy is to align your feed times with natural movement patterns. This almost always means programming feedings for early morning and late evening.

Set your first feed time for just after sunrise and the second for about an hour before sunset. This concentrates activity during peak viewing or hunting hours. When setting the duration, start conservatively. A spin time of 3 to 5 seconds is plenty to begin with. After a week, check the ground around the feeder. If all the feed is gone, you can increase the duration; if feed is accumulating and going sour, shorten it.

Avoid the temptation to set too many feed times or run the motor for too long. Overfeeding can lead to waste and make wildlife dependent on the feeder. The goal is to provide a consistent, predictable supplement, not an all-day buffet. Regularly check the clock on your timer, as it can drift over several months, and adjust as needed to keep it synced with sunrise and sunset.

Routine Maintenance for Long-Term Reliability

An automatic feeder is a machine left out in the elements, and like any machine, it requires occasional maintenance to stay reliable. Every time you visit to refill the hopper, take five minutes to run through a quick inspection. This simple habit will prevent most common failures.

First, check the power system. Make sure the battery terminals are clean and the connections are tight. Wipe any dust or pollen off the solar panel with a cloth to ensure it’s charging efficiently. Second, perform a manual spin test using the timer’s test function to confirm the motor is running strong and the spinner plate is clear of debris.

Finally, look inside the hopper for any signs of moisture or clumped, moldy feed, especially around the funnel. If you find any, scoop it out before it causes a major clog. Taking these small steps on every visit ensures your feeder will be working just as hard as you do.

Final Check: Ensuring Your Feeder is Ready

Before you walk away from your newly assembled and filled feeder, run through a quick final checklist to ensure everything is in order. This last look can save you a return trip to fix a simple mistake.

First, double-check the timer settings: confirm the current time is correct and that your desired feed times and durations are programmed. Next, run the test function one last time to watch the spinner throw feed. This confirms the entire system—battery, timer, and motor—is working together. Finally, ensure the hopper lid is on tight and securely latched. A loose lid is an entry point for rain and a prime target for raccoons. Once these three things are confirmed, you can leave with confidence, knowing your feeder is ready to do its job.

A well-built automatic feeder is more than just a convenience; it’s a reliable management tool that works around the clock. By selecting durable, compatible components and performing simple, routine checks, you create a system that you can depend on season after season. The right gear doesn’t just make the job easier—it makes it successful.