6 Best Predator Proof Chicken Run Netting That Old Farmers Swear By
Discover 6 predator-proof chicken run nettings trusted by seasoned farmers. Our review covers the best options for keeping your flock safe and secure.
There’s no worse feeling than walking out to the coop at dawn to find a scene of devastation. A single determined raccoon or a bold fox can undo years of work in a few minutes. The hard truth is that your flock’s safety depends entirely on the barrier you put between them and the things that want to eat them.
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Why Standard Chicken Wire Fails Against Predators
Let’s be clear about one thing: chicken wire is for keeping chickens in, not for keeping predators out. This is the single biggest mistake new flock owners make. They see the name, assume it’s the right tool for the job, and learn a hard lesson later.
The problem is the material itself. Standard chicken wire uses thin, malleable wire woven into a hexagon pattern. A raccoon can easily reach a paw through the wide holes, and they have the dexterity to pull the wire apart or even work a simple latch. A determined dog or coyote won’t even slow down; they’ll just push right through it, tearing it from the staples.
A proper predator-proof barrier needs to do more than just define a space. It must be a physical shield that cannot be easily torn, bent, or squeezed through. It needs to withstand pulling, pushing, and chewing from animals that have all night to work on finding a weak spot. Chicken wire fails on all these counts, making it a liability, not a defense.
Yardgard Welded Wire: The All-Around Defender
When you’re building the main walls of your run, welded wire fencing is the real starting point. Unlike chicken wire, the wires are physically welded together at each intersection, creating a rigid and strong grid. Yardgard is a widely available brand that offers a good balance of strength and cost for most hobby farmers.
The key is to choose the right specifications. Look for a 14 or 16-gauge wire with a 2"x4" or, even better, a 1"x2" mesh opening. This grid is too small for a raccoon’s paws to get a good grip, and the thicker gauge wire is strong enough to stop a medium-sized dog or fox from breaking through. It’s the workhorse fencing for a secure perimeter.
Of course, there’s a trade-off. Welded wire is stiffer, heavier, and more difficult to install than flimsy chicken wire. You’ll need sturdy posts set properly, and you’ll have to stretch it tight to prevent sagging. But this initial effort is what buys you peace of mind for years to come.
Eaton Steel Hex Mesh for Burrowing Predators
A strong wall is only half the battle. Many predators, especially foxes, badgers, and even neighborhood dogs, won’t bother going through a fence when they can just dig under it. This is where you need to think in three dimensions and create a barrier at ground level.
A fantastic solution is to install a fencing "apron" or "skirt" around the entire perimeter of your run. This involves laying a 2-foot-wide section of fencing flat on the ground, extending outward from the base of your walls. Eaton’s galvanized or vinyl-coated steel hex mesh is perfect for this job because it’s durable enough to withstand constant contact with the damp ground.
When a predator comes to the base of the run and starts to dig, its paws immediately hit this underground mesh. Their instinct is to dig right at the fenceline, and the apron uses that instinct against them. After a few frustrating attempts, most will give up and move on to an easier target. It’s a simple, low-tech solution that foils a very common attack strategy.
Tenax Heavy-Duty Poly Netting for Top Covers
Don’t forget to look up. Hawks, owls, and eagles see an open-topped run as a buffet table. Covering a large run with heavy metal fencing can be expensive, difficult, and can create structural issues from the sheer weight, especially under a snow load.
This is the perfect job for a heavy-duty polypropylene netting like the kind Tenax makes. This isn’t the flimsy stuff you’d throw over a berry bush. It’s a thick, UV-stabilized plastic mesh that is surprisingly strong and lightweight. It easily stops avian predators without blocking critical sunlight or airflow for your flock.
The real advantage is in the installation. You can stretch it over a much wider span with less support than metal fencing requires. A simple frame of wood or even a few taut guide wires can support it over your entire run. It’s a specialized tool that solves the aerial threat problem efficiently and effectively.
Fencer Wire Hardware Cloth for Weasels and Snakes
The most terrifying predators are often the smallest. Weasels, mink, and even large snakes can slip through openings you wouldn’t think possible, and they can wipe out an entire flock in a single night. A 1"x2" welded wire fence that stops a fox is a wide-open door for a weasel.
For these threats, you need hardware cloth. Fencer Wire is a common brand that makes exactly what you need: a rigid, welded wire mesh with tiny 1/2-inch or 1/4-inch openings. This is the only surefire way to stop small, slinky predators. Nothing is getting through that grid.
Because it’s more expensive, you use it strategically. The most critical application is along the bottom two to three feet of your entire run, attached over your main welded wire. You should also use it to cover every single vent, window, or small gap on the coop itself. Think of it as the fine-detail security that seals the perimeter your larger wire establishes.
Premier 1 PoultryNet Plus Electric Fencing
Sometimes your defense needs to be active, not just passive. For those who rotate pastures or want to give their birds more ranging room, electric netting is a game-changer. Premier 1 is the standard-bearer in this space, and their PoultryNet Plus is a complete, effective system.
This isn’t just a fence; it’s a powerful psychological deterrent. The netting acts as a physical barrier, but the electric pulse it carries is what does the real work. A curious raccoon, fox, or bear that touches its nose to the fence gets a sharp, memorable shock and learns to stay far away. It’s incredibly effective at training local predators to avoid your property entirely.
The tradeoff is maintenance. You need a reliable fence charger (either solar or plug-in) and you must keep the fenceline clear of tall grass and weeds, which can short it out and drain its power. It’s not a "set it and forget it" solution, but for flexibility and sheer deterrent power, nothing else comes close.
Amagabeli Hardware Cloth: A Sturdy Alternative
Having options is always good, and Amagabeli offers another excellent, widely available hardware cloth that gets the job done. Like other hardware cloths, its strength lies in the small mesh size and welded construction, making it a formidable barrier against the smallest and most persistent intruders.
Look for a roll that is double-galvanized or vinyl-coated. Since hardware cloth is most often installed low to the ground where it’s exposed to moisture, mud, and chicken manure, rust prevention is critical for longevity. A quality coating ensures your investment won’t disintegrate after a few seasons.
A cost-effective strategy is to combine materials. Use the more affordable 2"x4" welded wire for the upper portion of your run walls, then run a 24-inch-tall strip of Amagabeli hardware cloth along the bottom. This layered approach gives you maximum protection where you need it most—against both small burrowers and larger predators—without the expense of building the entire run out of pricey hardware cloth.
Installation Tips for a Truly Impenetrable Run
The best fencing material in the world is useless if it’s installed poorly. Predators are experts at finding the weak spot in your defenses, so your installation has to be meticulous. A secure run is a complete system, not just a roll of wire.
The details are what separate a secure coop from a vulnerable one. A determined predator will test every inch of your work, so you have to be just as determined in building it.
- Bury Your Fencing or Use an Apron. You must stop diggers. Either bury the fence 12 inches deep or install a 24-inch apron flat on the ground pointing outwards.
- Overlap and Secure All Seams. Where two pieces of fencing meet, overlap them by at least 4-6 inches. Secure them tightly with steel J-clips or heavy-duty wire, not just zip ties which can become brittle.
- Use Strong Posts and Framing. Your fencing is only as strong as its supports. Use pressure-treated 4×4 posts or heavy-duty steel T-posts spaced no more than 8-10 feet apart.
- Don’t Forget the Gate. The gate is the most common point of failure. It must be framed solidly, fit snugly with no gaps, and be secured with at least two latches, including one that is raccoon-proof like a carabiner clip.
Building a predator-proof run isn’t about finding one perfect product; it’s about understanding threats and creating layers of defense. By choosing the right material for each job—walls, apron, and top cover—and installing it with care, you can build a fortress. That initial investment of time and money pays dividends every single morning you walk out to a safe, happy, and healthy flock.
