7 Best Cutworm Collars For Seedlings Grandparents Used to Know
Protect seedlings from cutworms with 7 classic collars. Learn how our grandparents used simple, everyday materials to create effective physical barriers.
You walk out to your garden one morning to find a perfectly healthy tomato seedling lying on its side, neatly severed at the soil line. This isn’t disease or a nutrient deficiency; it’s the classic, frustrating signature of the cutworm. Before you reach for a chemical spray, remember that the most effective solutions are often the simplest ones our grandparents relied on for generations.
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Why Old-Fashioned Cutworm Collars Still Work
Cutworms are the larvae of certain moths, and they do their damage at night. They emerge from the soil, wrap themselves around the tender stem of a young plant, and chew right through it. The principle behind a cutworm collar is brutally simple: create a physical barrier the worm can’t climb over or push through.
These old-fashioned methods don’t rely on chemicals or complex technology. They rely on understanding the pest’s behavior and blocking it. A simple collar, pushed an inch into the soil and standing an inch or two above it, is all it takes to frustrate a cutworm and send it searching for an easier meal.
The beauty of these solutions is their accessibility. They use materials you already have, turning trash into a tool. This isn’t just about saving money; it’s about a mindset of resourcefulness that is central to successful small-scale farming. You solve problems with what’s on hand, not what’s on a store shelf.
The Cardboard Tube: A Classic Cutworm Guard
The humble cardboard tube from a toilet paper or paper towel roll is the quintessential cutworm collar. It’s free, readily available, and perfectly sized for most seedlings like tomatoes, peppers, and broccoli. Simply cut the tubes into two- or three-inch segments to create multiple collars.
To use one, just slip it over your seedling and press it about an inch deep into the soil. The cardboard is sturdy enough to block a cutworm but soft enough that it will eventually break down and compost in place. You don’t even have to remove it.
The main tradeoff is durability. In a very wet spring, a cardboard tube can get soggy and collapse before the plant’s stem is thick enough to resist attack. For most situations, however, it lasts just long enough to get your plants through their most vulnerable stage.
Aluminum Foil Shields for Stem Protection
A small square of aluminum foil can make an effective, if unconventional, cutworm collar. Wrap a piece loosely around the base of the stem, extending from just below the soil line to a couple of inches up. The foil is too slick and awkward for the cutworm to get a grip on.
Some gardeners believe the reflective surface also helps deter other pests and may even confuse aphids. While that’s a secondary benefit, its primary job is as a physical shield. It’s a great option for irregularly shaped stems or for when you’ve run out of cardboard tubes.
The downside is that foil isn’t biodegradable. You’ll need to remember to remove it later in the season so it doesn’t constrict the growing stem. It can also be torn by strong winds or during weeding, so check on them occasionally.
Repurposed Yogurt Cups: A Sturdy Barrier
Plastic yogurt cups, sour cream containers, or single-serving fruit cups offer a more robust and reusable solution. Simply cut the bottom out of the cup with a utility knife to create a sturdy, wide-mouthed collar. This is an excellent choice for larger plants like squash or for gardens in particularly windy locations.
This durable, all-metal utility knife features a retractable blade with three adjustable positions for precise cuts. It offers quick blade changes and includes 10 extra SK5 blades for long-lasting use on various materials.
These plastic collars will last for years. Press them into the soil around your seedling, and they will provide unwavering protection. Their width also helps shield the immediate root zone from drying out too quickly and can deter some digging pests.
Of course, they are plastic. You’ll need to collect, clean, and store them at the end of the season. If you don’t remove them, they become plastic trash in your garden soil, so their permanence is both a strength and a responsibility.
The Bottomless Tin Can: A Permanent Solution
For the ultimate in long-term protection, nothing beats a tin can. Using a can opener that removes the lid without leaving a sharp lip, cut both the top and bottom off a standard vegetable or soup can. What you’re left with is a metal cylinder that will last for decades.
This is the solution for plants you consider high-value or for areas with severe and persistent cutworm problems. Press the can a couple of inches into the soil, and no cutworm will ever get past it. Some people even leave them in place year after year in permanent beds, planting a new seedling inside the ring each spring.
The considerations here are twofold. First, be extremely careful with sharp edges during preparation. Second, the metal can absorb and conduct heat, which can be a benefit in a cool spring but might stress roots in a hot summer. It’s a powerful tool, but one that slightly alters the microclimate right at the plant’s base.
Folded Newspaper Collars: Simple & Biodegradable
If you have a stack of old newspapers, you have an infinite supply of cutworm collars. Cut a few pages into strips about four inches wide and long enough to wrap around a stem with some overlap. Fold the strip in half lengthwise to give it some rigidity, form it into a circle, and secure it with a staple or paperclip.
This is the most frugal and earth-friendly option available. Like the cardboard tube, the newspaper will decompose directly in the garden, adding a tiny bit of carbon to the soil. It’s a perfect "use-it-and-forget-it" method for large plantings where collecting plastic cups would be impractical.
The tradeoff, as you’d expect, is a complete lack of durability. A heavy downpour can turn a newspaper collar into a useless pulp. They work best in drier climates or if you are diligent about replacing them after a storm.
Milk Carton Squares for Heavy-Duty Defense
Wax-coated paper cartons from milk or juice are the perfect middle ground between flimsy newspaper and permanent plastic. The material is designed to hold up to moisture, giving it far more staying power than a plain cardboard tube. Cut the carton into flat pieces, then form them into square or circular collars.
These collars provide a great balance of features. They are:
- Durable: They’ll easily last the few critical weeks your seedlings are vulnerable.
- Resourceful: You’re upcycling a common household item.
- Effective: The waxy surface is tough for cutworms to navigate.
While they don’t break down as fast as newspaper, most will soften enough by the end of the season to be tilled in without issue. For the hobby farmer looking for a reliable, low-cost solution without the long-term commitment of plastic or metal, this is a top contender.
Diatomaceous Earth: The Abrasive Ring Barrier
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This last method isn’t a "collar" in the traditional sense, but it serves the exact same purpose. Diatomaceous earth (DE) is a powder made from the fossilized remains of tiny aquatic organisms. To a soft-bodied pest like a cutworm, it’s like crawling over a field of broken glass.
To use it, you simply sprinkle a complete circle of food-grade DE on the dry soil around the base of each seedling. Any cutworm attempting to cross the line will get microscopic cuts on its body, causing it to dehydrate and die. It’s a highly effective barrier that also works on slugs and snails.
The critical weakness of DE is water. Once it gets wet, it is completely useless. A morning dew or a light rain will deactivate the abrasive ring, and you’ll need to reapply it once the soil surface is dry again. This makes it a high-maintenance option in wet climates but a fantastic, non-toxic choice for arid regions or during dry spells.
The best solution for your garden depends on the resources you have and the weather you face. Don’t be afraid to mix and match these methods, using a sturdy tin can for a prized heirloom tomato and simple newspaper for a long row of beans. The goal is the same as it was for our grandparents: to protect young plants with simple, clever barriers until they are strong enough to stand on their own.
