6 Best Feeder Leg Anchors For Windy Conditions That Prevent Feed Waste
High winds can topple feeders, leading to costly feed waste. We review the 6 best leg anchors designed to secure your setup and protect your investment.
There’s nothing more frustrating than cresting a hill to check your feeders after a storm, only to see one lying on its side, a golden carpet of expensive feed spread across the mud. That single gust of wind didn’t just knock over a piece of equipment; it wasted money, spooked your animals, and created an hour of cleanup you don’t have time for. Properly anchoring your feeders isn’t an optional step—it’s essential insurance against waste and frustration.
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Why You Must Anchor Feeders in High Winds
A tipped feeder is an expensive problem that goes beyond the obvious loss of grain. The sudden crash can damage the feeder’s motor, solar panel, or timer, turning a simple reset into a costly repair job. Your livestock or wildlife can also become wary of the feeder, disrupting their patterns and your management plan.
The problems don’t stop there. A large pile of spilled feed is an open invitation to every pest in the area, from raccoons and rodents to insects. This can introduce disease and create a pest problem that lingers long after you’ve cleaned up the mess. You also lose valuable time—time spent hauling the heavy feeder upright, salvaging what little feed you can, and resetting the whole system.
Think of anchoring as a one-time investment that pays dividends every time the wind blows. The small cost and effort of securing your feeder upfront prevents the much larger, recurring costs of spilled feed, broken parts, and wasted hours. It’s one of the most effective ways to protect your bottom line and your sanity.
Moultrie Feeder Feet for Tripod Stability
For many common tripod feeders, the simplest upgrade is often the most effective. Moultrie’s Feeder Feet are a perfect example. These are essentially wide, flat "shoes" that slide over the end of your feeder’s round or square tube legs.
Their function is twofold. First, they dramatically increase the surface area of each leg’s footprint, preventing them from sinking into soft or wet ground. Second, and more importantly, each foot has pre-drilled holes, allowing you to drive heavy-duty stakes or rebar directly through them and into the ground. This simple addition transforms a wobbly tripod into a much more stable structure.
These are a fantastic starting point for moderately windy locations with decent soil. They are affordable, easy to install, and widely available. However, in hurricane-prone regions or on extremely sandy soil, they may not provide enough holding power on their own and should be paired with a more robust anchoring method.
The T-Mate Anchor System for T-Post Setups
If you already use T-posts for fencing, you understand their incredible holding power. The T-Mate system leverages that strength by directly connecting your feeder leg to a T-post driven deep into the ground. This isn’t just staking a feeder down; it’s integrating it into a semi-permanent foundation.
The system uses a specialized bracket that clamps around the feeder leg and bolts securely to a T-post. By driving a T-post next to each leg and attaching the T-Mate, you create a rigid structure that is exceptionally resistant to tipping. The angled spade at the bottom of the T-post prevents it from twisting or pulling out, even under significant lateral force from high winds.
This is a serious solution for anyone tired of dealing with failed anchors. The primary tradeoff is the installation effort. You’ll need a T-post driver and the muscle to sink three posts, which isn’t a quick task. But for a feeder that you don’t plan on moving often, the T-Mate system offers unparalleled peace of mind in the absolute worst weather.
Boss Buck Shark Teeth for Tough Ground Grip
Driving a standard stake into hardpan clay or rocky soil can feel impossible. More often than not, the stake bends or just bounces off. Boss Buck’s Shark Teeth are engineered specifically for these challenging conditions.
Instead of a smooth shaft, these stakes feature aggressive, serrated edges—the "shark teeth"—that are designed to cut into and grip compacted ground. When you drive them in, they bite and hold where other stakes would fail or easily pull out. They are typically used with feeder feet or anchor plates that have holes for staking.
While they might seem like overkill for soft, loamy soil, they are a game-changer in tough environments. If you’ve ever bent a piece of rebar trying to secure a feeder, this is your solution. They provide the confidence that your anchor isn’t just sitting in a loose hole but is actively locked into the ground.
Eurmax Spiral Ground Anchors: A Versatile Kit
Sometimes the best tool for the job isn’t a specialized one. Spiral ground anchors, also called auger anchors, are a perfect example. While often sold for securing tents, canopies, or sheds, their holding power is ideal for heavy feeders in windy areas.
You install these by literally screwing them into the earth. The helical design provides a massive amount of surface area, giving them incredible resistance to being pulled out—far more than a simple stake. Most kits come with heavy-duty straps, cables, or turnbuckles that you can use to lash the feeder legs securely to the embedded anchors.
The versatility of a spiral anchor kit is a major plus; you’ll find a dozen other uses for them around the farm. Their main downside is that they take time and effort to screw into the ground, especially in compacted soil. They are an excellent choice for a set-it-and-forget-it feeder location where you need maximum holding power against both tipping and lifting forces.
All Seasons Feeders (ASF) Anchor Plate System
For those running larger, high-capacity feeders, protecting that investment is paramount. The ASF Anchor Plate System is a heavy-duty solution designed for just that. This system consists of a thick steel plate that bolts directly to the base of the feeder leg, creating a wide, stable platform.
The plate itself is the key. It provides a large, flat surface to prevent sinking, but its real strength comes from the multiple staking points. Instead of relying on a single stake per leg, the ASF plate allows you to drive three or four stakes at different angles. This distributes the load and creates a powerful, redundant anchor that is exceptionally difficult to dislodge.
This is a premium system for a premium feeder. While designed for ASF products, the concept can be adapted. It represents a philosophy: don’t just pin the leg down, build a foundation for it. If you’re managing a significant feed program and can’t afford any downtime, this level of security is well worth the cost.
DIY Cinder Block Anchors: A Heavy-Duty Fix
When you need a solution right now and don’t want to spend much, look no further than the humble cinder block. Using sheer weight is a classic, brute-force method for anchoring just about anything, and it works remarkably well for feeders.
The application is simple. Place a cinder block over each feeder foot, letting the leg pass through one of the block’s holes. For added security, run a heavy-duty zip tie, a short length of chain, or a ratchet strap through the block and around the leg to bind them together. The 30-40 pounds of weight per leg makes the feeder incredibly difficult for the wind to tip.
This method is cheap, effective, and requires no special tools. The tradeoffs are aesthetics and portability; it’s not a clean look, and moving the feeder becomes a much bigger chore. It also does more to prevent tipping than sliding. Even so, as a quick, heavy-duty fix, the cinder block method is tough to beat.
Anchor Installation Tips for Maximum Hold
The best anchor in the world will fail if installed incorrectly. To get the most holding power, always drive stakes at a 45-degree angle pointing away from the feeder. A stake driven straight down can be pulled out easily, but an angled stake forces the wind to fight against a much larger volume of compacted soil.
Pay attention to your soil. In soft, sandy, or saturated ground, you need longer anchors to reach a stable layer. A 12-inch stake might be useless, while a 30-inch spiral anchor will hold fast. Conversely, in rocky soil, you may need to use a masonry bit to drill a pilot hole before driving your stake to prevent it from bending.
Finally, eliminate all slack between the anchor and the feeder leg. Use turnbuckles or ratchet straps to make the connection taut. Any slack allows the feeder to rock in the wind, building momentum that can snap a strap or work an anchor loose. A tight, secure connection transfers the force directly into the ground, which is exactly where you want it.
Securing your feeder is a small task that prevents big problems. By matching the right anchor to your soil type, wind conditions, and feeder style, you’re not just saving feed—you’re protecting your equipment, saving your time, and ensuring your animals have a reliable source of nutrition when they need it. Don’t wait for a storm to teach you the lesson; anchor it down right the first time.
