6 Best Oyster Shell Feeders For Strong Eggshells That Old Farmers Swear By
Strong eggshells start with easy access to calcium. We review 6 farmer-approved oyster shell feeders designed to boost flock health and minimize waste.
You find it in the nesting box, a fragile, almost rubbery egg that breaks the moment you touch it. That’s not just a lost breakfast; it’s a clear signal from your flock that they need more calcium, and fast. The right feeder, offering free-choice oyster shell, is the simple, time-tested fix for building strong eggshells and healthier hens.
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Why Free-Choice Calcium is Non-Negotiable
A laying hen is a biological marvel, but creating a perfect eggshell every 24 to 26 hours takes a massive toll on her body. The shell is nearly 95% calcium carbonate, and she can’t possibly get all she needs from a standard layer feed alone. Her requirements fluctuate wildly based on her age, laying cycle, and even the weather.
This is where "free-choice" feeding becomes essential. It means providing a separate source of calcium, like crushed oyster shell, in its own dedicated feeder at all times. The hens instinctively know when they need more and will take only what their body requires. One day a hen might ignore it completely; the next, she might visit the feeder multiple times.
Ignoring this simple need is a recipe for trouble. You’ll see thin, weak, or non-existent shells, but the unseen damage is worse. A hen will pull calcium from her own bones to form an eggshell, leading to skeletal weakness and potential fractures. It also increases the risk of becoming egg-bound, a life-threatening condition. Providing constant access to calcium isn’t just about egg quality; it’s fundamental to flock health.
Miller Manufacturing Galvanized Grit Feeder
When you picture a classic coop accessory, this is probably what comes to mind. The Miller feeder is a simple, single-compartment galvanized steel box that hangs on a nail or screw. It’s a no-frills tool that has been a mainstay on farms for generations for one simple reason: it works.
The heavy-duty steel construction means it’s practically indestructible. It won’t get brittle in the sun or crack in a winter freeze. The open-front design makes it obvious when a refill is needed, and pouring in more oyster shell is as simple as it gets.
The primary tradeoff is its exposure to the elements and the coop environment. If placed incorrectly, the open top is an invitation for contamination from dust, bedding, and droppings. If exposed to rain or high humidity, the oyster shell can clump into a solid, unappetizing brick. This feeder is an excellent, durable choice for placement inside a well-managed coop or a fully covered run.
RentACoop Wall-Mounted Feeder for Calcium
For those who prioritize cleanliness and waste reduction, the modern plastic feeders from companies like RentACoop are a game-changer. These feeders are typically designed to mount securely to a wall or wire mesh, getting the supplement up off the floor. They feature covered tops and specialized ports or troughs that protect the oyster shell from contamination.
The biggest advantage is how clean they keep the supplement. The covered design prevents birds from roosting on top and fouling the contents, and the feeding ports minimize how much shell can be scratched out and wasted. Being plastic, they are also exceptionally easy to remove and wash thoroughly.
While they are more of an investment than a simple metal box, the reduction in wasted supplement can pay for itself over time. The only potential downside is that a particularly bossy hen can sometimes guard the feeding ports, making it harder for more timid birds to get their share. This makes placement in a less-trafficked area of the coop a smart move.
Harris Farms Hanging Feeder for Grit & Shell
Getting feeders off the floor is one of the best ways to improve coop hygiene. The Harris Farms hanging feeder, and others like it, applies the same principle of a standard feed dispenser to a smaller-scale supplement feeder. It hangs from a chain or rope, keeping the oyster shell well away from floor-level moisture and pests.
This design is one of the best for keeping the supplement pristine. Chickens can’t scratch bedding into it, and its elevation makes it an unappealing target for rodents. The gentle swaying motion also discourages birds from trying to perch on it, further reducing the chance of contamination.
The main considerations are capacity and stability. These feeders are often smaller, so a large flock might empty one quickly. You also need a secure point to hang it from and must ensure it’s low enough for all birds to reach comfortably but not so low that they can knock it around and spill the contents.
The PVC Pipe Feeder: A DIY Farmer’s Classic
There’s a deep-rooted tradition of practicality and ingenuity in farming, and the PVC pipe feeder is a perfect example. Built from a length of 3- or 4-inch PVC pipe, a cap for the top, and a Y-connector or 45-degree elbow at the bottom, this feeder is the definition of functional. You can make it as tall as you want, holding enough oyster shell to last for weeks.
The benefits are obvious: it’s incredibly inexpensive, especially if you have leftover materials, and it’s fully customizable to fit your coop’s specific layout. Its vertical design takes up virtually no floor space, and the covered top keeps the contents perfectly clean and dry. It’s a simple, elegant solution born out of necessity.
The tradeoff is in the materials. Over years of exposure to UV light and temperature swings, PVC can become brittle and crack. You also need to ensure the opening at the bottom is sized correctly—large enough for easy access but angled so the shell doesn’t pour out onto the floor. It’s a fantastic project for the farmer who prefers a hands-on, customized approach to their setup.
Little Giant Small Trough for Grit & Shells
Sometimes the simplest solution is a small, open trough set on the floor or a cinder block. These are often made of durable, heavy-duty rubber or plastic and are incredibly versatile. There are no moving parts, nothing to break, and they are dead simple to fill.
Their accessibility is both a pro and a con. Every bird, no matter how small or timid, can easily get what she needs. However, that same open design makes it the most susceptible to contamination of any feeder type. Chickens will inevitably stand in it, scratch bedding into it, and foul it with droppings.
A trough-style feeder demands a higher level of management. It must be placed in a low-traffic area of a very clean coop and should be checked and cleaned daily. It’s a perfectly viable option, but only if you are committed to the daily upkeep required to keep the supplement fresh and appealing.
Brower Galvanized Feeder for Easy Access
This feeder design tackles the problem of waste head-on. The Brower trough-style feeder is a long, galvanized steel container that features a spinning reel or a wire guard across the top. This simple mechanism is highly effective at preventing chickens from perching on the edge and scratching the contents out with their feet.
By forcing birds to eat from the side, this design keeps the oyster shell remarkably clean and contained within the feeder. The heavy steel construction gives it stability, so it’s not easily tipped over. It’s a durable, long-term investment that excels at its primary job: offering a clean supplement with minimal waste.
The main consideration is space. A trough feeder, by its nature, has a larger footprint than a compact wall-mounted or hanging unit. It’s an excellent choice for a spacious coop or run where you can dedicate a specific area to it without creating a traffic jam.
Feeder Placement for Optimal Calcium Intake
You can have the best feeder in the world, but it won’t do any good if it’s in the wrong place. Proper placement is just as critical as the feeder itself, as it ensures every hen can access calcium without stress or competition. Get this part right, and you solve a lot of problems before they start.
Follow these simple rules for placement:
- Keep it inside. Oyster shell that gets wet from rain turns into a useless, concrete-like mass. Always place the feeder inside the coop or, at a minimum, in a completely covered and weatherproof section of the run.
- Give it its own space. Don’t put the calcium feeder right next to the main food and water. This can encourage a dominant hen to "guard" all the resources. Placing it in a different corner of the coop allows more timid birds to access it without conflict.
- Avoid the roosts. This should be obvious, but it’s the most common mistake. Never place any feeder or waterer directly underneath the roosting bars.
For hanging or wall-mounted feeders, a good rule of thumb is to set the opening at about the height of the average hen’s back. This is a comfortable height for them to eat from but high enough to discourage them from casually scratching bedding or dirt into it.
Ultimately, the goal of placement is to make access easy, clean, and low-stress. A well-placed feeder invites use, ensuring your flock can self-regulate their calcium intake effectively. It’s a small detail that has a massive impact on the long-term health of your birds.
Ultimately, the perfect oyster shell feeder is the one your chickens actually use. Whether it’s a slick plastic model or a homemade PVC pipe, the goal remains the same: provide clean, dry, constant access to calcium. Pay attention to your flock, keep the feeder full, and you’ll be rewarded with strong shells and healthy birds for years to come.
