6 Best Hive Beetles Prevention Feeders
Combat hive beetles like seasoned beekeepers do. Discover 6 classic entrance feeders that limit pest access and empower bees to defend their own hive.
You pop open a hive on a warm afternoon, and there they are: dozens of small hive beetles scurrying away from the light, a sure sign of trouble. These pests can overrun a weak colony, sliming the comb and driving the bees to abscond. When you’re trying to build up a hive with supplemental feeding, the last thing you want is for that sugar syrup to become a beetle buffet. This is where the right feeder makes all the difference, and why so many seasoned beekeepers stick with a time-tested classic: the entrance feeder.
Disclosure: As an Amazon Associate, this site earns from qualifying purchases. Thank you!
Why Entrance Feeders Deter Small Hive Beetles
Entrance feeders work on a simple, brilliant principle: they keep the food outside the house. Small hive beetles (SHB) thrive in the dark, warm, and humid interior of the hive. An internal feeder, like a frame feeder or top feeder, can easily become a beetle breeding ground if syrup spills or the bees can’t defend it effectively.
An entrance feeder places the syrup reservoir outside the hive, forcing bees to exit to eat. This creates a highly defensible chokepoint at the entrance. The bees guard that small space fiercely, making it nearly impossible for beetles to access the syrup without being dispatched.
Furthermore, any drips or spills happen on the landing board or the ground, not inside on the bottom board where beetle larvae can fester. By moving the main attractant out of the hive’s core, you fundamentally change the dynamic. You’re not just feeding your bees; you’re strategically denying resources to your pests.
Mann Lake Boardman Feeder: The Beekeeping Classic
If you’ve seen a picture of a beehive feeder, it was probably a Boardman. It’s the quintessential entrance feeder, consisting of a simple plastic or wooden base that holds an inverted quart jar. You fill the jar with syrup, screw on a perforated lid, and slide the base into the hive entrance.
Its beauty lies in its simplicity. You can see the syrup level from a distance, making it easy to know when a refill is needed without disturbing the colony. They are inexpensive and universally available. For a new beekeeper or someone running just a few hives, the Boardman is a reliable starting point that gets the job-to-bee done with no fuss.
The primary tradeoff is its potential to incite robbing from other hives, as the food source is exposed. However, old-timers mitigate this by using an entrance reducer alongside the feeder, shrinking the opening bees must defend. It’s a classic for a reason: it’s simple, effective, and teaches good hive management.
Little Giant Farm & Ag Feeder for Durability
The Little Giant feeder is essentially a modern take on the classic Boardman, but with a focus on ruggedness. Instead of thin plastic that can crack after a season in the sun, these are often made from a thicker, more durable polymer. This might seem like a small detail, but it matters when you’re juggling equipment on a hot day.
Think of it as the heavy-duty version. If you’ve ever had a standard feeder base snap while trying to pry it from a propolis-sealed entrance, you’ll appreciate the extra sturdiness. It functions identically to the classic Boardman but is built to withstand the bumps, drops, and temperature swings of farm life.
For the hobby farmer with a handful of hives, investing a few extra dollars in a feeder that will last for years is a practical decision. It’s a "buy it once, cry it once" philosophy. You’re paying for reliability and the peace of mind that your equipment won’t fail when you need it most.
GloryBee Wooden Feeder: A Natural Hive Option
Some beekeepers just prefer the feel and look of wood. The GloryBee wooden feeder offers the same functionality as its plastic counterparts but aligns with a more natural beekeeping aesthetic. The wooden base feels solid and integrates seamlessly with standard Langstroth woodenware.
This isn’t just about looks. A well-made wooden base can be more durable over the long term than cheap plastic, and it’s easily repairable. A dab of wood glue or a small brad nail can fix a split, whereas a cracked plastic feeder is destined for the trash pile. It’s a nod to a time when beekeeping equipment was built to be maintained, not replaced.
The downside is that wood requires a bit more care. If left in contact with damp ground, it can wick moisture and eventually rot. But for the beekeeper who appreciates traditional materials and doesn’t mind a little upkeep, the wooden feeder is a satisfying and effective choice.
Bee Smart Robber Screen Feeder Combination
This is where old-school wisdom meets modern design. The Bee Smart feeder combo tackles the biggest weakness of entrance feeders—robbing—head-on. It integrates a standard entrance feeder port with a built-in robber screen, a device that creates a confusing path for would-be robbers.
The hive’s own bees quickly learn how to navigate the screen to get to the feeder and the hive entrance. Marauding bees from other colonies, however, are drawn to the scent of syrup at the front of the screen but can’t figure out the "secret" entrance. It effectively makes your hive invisible to robbers while feeding continues.
This is a fantastic tool for feeding during a nectar dearth when robbing pressure is at its peak. It allows you to support a weaker colony without advertising a free lunch to every bee in the neighborhood. It’s a specialized tool, but for situations where robbing is a serious threat, it’s one of the best solutions available.
Kelley Beekeeping’s Reversible Entrance Feeder
Versatility is a key virtue in small-scale farming, and this feeder embodies that principle. Kelley’s reversible feeder is designed with two sides, each with a different configuration. One side might be for a standard Mason jar, while the other accommodates a smaller jar or has a different entrance depth.
This adaptability is its main strength. You can use it on a nuc with a small entrance or flip it over for a full-sized hive. Some models are designed to fit snugly with specific entrance reducers, creating a tight, defensible feeding station.
It’s the kind of thoughtful design that comes from decades of experience. Instead of needing multiple pieces of equipment, you have one tool that can adapt to different colony sizes and seasons. For the hobbyist looking to minimize gear and maximize utility, a reversible feeder is a smart, practical investment.
The DIY Mason Jar Feeder: An Old-Timer’s Go-To
Before you could order everything online, beekeepers made what they needed. The DIY entrance feeder is the ultimate expression of this self-sufficient spirit, and it’s just as effective today. All you need is a scrap piece of 1×4 or 2×4 wood, a drill, and a standard Mason jar.
The process is simple:
- Cut a block of wood about 7-8 inches long.
- Drill a hole in the center slightly larger than the mouth of a Mason jar.
- From one end, cut a shallow channel (about 1/4 inch deep) leading to the hole. This is where the bees will access the syrup.
- Punch a few small holes in the jar lid with a nail.
You now have a perfectly functional entrance feeder for pennies. It’s rugged, infinitely replaceable, and uses the same canning jars you already have for honey. This approach isn’t just about saving money; it’s about understanding the core principle of how a feeder works. It proves that effective beekeeping is about knowledge, not expensive gear.
These 16oz mason jars are perfect for canning, food storage, and DIY projects. The airtight lids ensure freshness, and the set includes labels and a cleaning brush for added convenience.
Best Practices for Feeder Use and Beetle Control
Even the best feeder is only one part of a larger hive beetle strategy. A strong, populous colony is always the number one defense. Smart feeding supports this goal, but only when done correctly.
First, only feed when necessary. Constant feeding can make a colony dependent and actually attract more pests. Feed new packages, support weak hives, or provide resources during a true nectar dearth, but let the bees forage for themselves whenever possible. Always use an entrance reducer to shrink the opening the bees must defend. A wide-open entrance is an invitation for trouble.
Keep the area around the hive clean. Spilled syrup is a dinner bell for ants, yellow jackets, and hive beetles. When filling jars, do it away from the apiary to minimize drips. On cool nights, don’t fill the jar to the very top; the syrup will contract as it cools, creating a vacuum that can cause it to leak out. Combine smart feeding with other beetle controls, like in-hive traps, to create a comprehensive defense system.
Ultimately, controlling small hive beetles isn’t about finding a single magic bullet, but about implementing a system of smart, defensive practices. An entrance feeder is a cornerstone of that system, keeping syrup out of the hive and giving your bees a fighting chance. Whether you choose a durable modern design or a homemade classic, the principle remains the same: support your bees without feeding their enemies.
