6 Best Sheep Goat Fences For Predators On a Homestead Budget

There’s a sinking feeling that comes with a morning headcount that’s one short. It’s a feeling every shepherd and goatherd dreads, and it’s almost always followed by the grim discovery of a predator’s work. Protecting your flock isn’t just about keeping them in; it’s about keeping determined hunters out. Your fence is the single most important investment you will make in the safety and success of your small-scale livestock operation.

Disclosure: As an Amazon Associate, this site earns from qualifying purchases. Thank you!

Choosing Fencing for Your Flock and Budget

There is no single "best" fence. The right choice for your homestead depends entirely on your specific predators, your terrain, and how you manage your animals. A fence designed to stop a coyote that digs is different from one meant to deter a black bear that pushes.

Before you spend a dime, honestly assess your situation. Are you dealing with neighborhood dogs, or a resident pack of coyotes? Is your land flat and clear, or hilly and wooded? Do you plan to rotationally graze your animals for parasite control and pasture health, or will they be in a permanent, fixed paddock?

The budget is more than just the upfront cost of materials. You must also factor in the cost of your own labor, the need for specialized tools, and the ongoing maintenance commitment. A cheap fence that fails isn’t a bargain; it’s a liability waiting to happen.

Red Brand Woven Wire: A Durable Classic

Woven wire is the old-school standard for a reason: it works. This is a true physical barrier, built for permanence and brute strength. When installed correctly, it provides a formidable wall that most predators will not be able to push through.

The key to its effectiveness is the construction. The vertical "stay" wires and horizontal line wires are held together by strong knots, creating a resilient grid. Look for options with graduated spacing, meaning the openings are smaller at the bottom—this is crucial for preventing predators from squeezing through and stops lambs or kids from getting their heads stuck.

The major tradeoff is the cost and labor of installation. Woven wire is heavy, and it absolutely must be stretched tight to be effective. This requires well-braced corner posts and a lot of physical effort or specialized equipment. It’s a significant upfront investment, but a properly installed woven wire fence can easily last for decades with minimal maintenance.

Premier 1 ElectroNet for Flexible Rotational Grazing

If you practice intensive rotational grazing, electric netting is your best friend. This isn’t a physical barrier; it’s a powerful psychological one. A single, sharp zap from a well-powered net teaches predators that your pasture is a place to avoid.

The beauty of netting is its portability. One person can easily take down and set up a 164-foot roll in about 15 minutes. This flexibility allows you to move your flock to fresh grass daily, which is a game-changer for parasite management and soil health. The built-in posts make it an all-in-one system that’s incredibly efficient for temporary paddocks.

However, netting demands active management. You must keep the fenceline mowed or trimmed, as heavy vegetation will touch the lower hot wires and ground out the system, rendering it useless. You also need a potent, low-impedance fence charger to ensure the shock is memorable. A poorly energized net is just a tangled inconvenience for a hungry coyote.

Gallagher High-Tensile for Permanent Security

For a permanent perimeter fence with maximum security, high-tensile electric is the professional-grade solution. This system uses multiple strands of smooth, highly conductive wire tensioned to over 200 pounds. It combines a tough physical presence with a severe electric shock that stops predators cold.

A typical high-tensile predator fence will have 5 to 7 strands, with alternating hot and ground wires. The tight wires prevent animals from pushing through, and the powerful shock deters them from even trying. Because the wire is smooth, it’s less likely to injure an animal that runs into it compared to barbed or woven wire.

This is not a beginner-friendly DIY project. Proper installation requires specialized tools like a spinning jenny, tensioners, and crimpers, along with deep knowledge of how to build robust H-braces for corners and ends. While the material cost per foot can be less than woven wire, the investment in tools and learning curve is steep. The result, however, is a low-maintenance, highly effective fence that will last a lifetime.

Tarter Welded Utility Panels for High-Pressure Areas

Sometimes you need absolute, foolproof containment in a small area. For kidding pens, sick bays, or a small yard right next to the barn, welded utility panels (often called hog or cattle panels) are unbeatable. These 16-foot-long rigid panels are the definition of heavy-duty.

There is no stretching, no sagging, and no question of whether an animal can push through. You simply set T-posts and attach the panels with wire or clips. They are tall enough to discourage jumpers and strong enough to withstand a charging ram or a persistent predator. Their rigidity makes them perfect for creating temporary funnels or alleyways for moving animals.

The obvious downside is the price. On a per-foot basis, panels are one of the most expensive fencing options available. This makes them completely impractical for fencing a large pasture. But for that critical 16-foot section by a gate or a 32×32 foot kidding pen where a failure is not an option, the cost is easily justified by the peace of mind they provide.

Bekaert Field Fence with an Electric Offset Wire

This hybrid system offers the best of both worlds: a strong physical barrier backed up by a psychological deterrent. It starts with a standard woven wire field fence, which provides the baseline security. Then, you add one or two strands of electric wire on offset insulators.

The magic is in the placement of the hot wires. An offset wire placed about 6-8 inches off the ground on the outside of the fence will stop anything that tries to dig or push under the fence. A second offset wire placed near the top of the fence will deter anything that tries to climb or jump. This combination protects the physical fence itself from being tested, pushed on, or damaged by animals.

This approach significantly increases the effectiveness of a standard woven wire fence for a minimal additional cost. The woven wire is still there as a backup if the power fails, but the electric wire does most of the daily work. It’s an outstanding, belt-and-suspenders approach for areas with high predator pressure.

Zareba Polywire Electric: A Low-Cost Deterrent

Polywire is the most affordable and temporary electric fencing option. It consists of plastic twine interwoven with several thin, conductive metal filaments. It’s extremely lightweight, highly visible, and can be put up and taken down in minutes using simple step-in posts.

Its best use is for interior divisions within a secure perimeter fence. For example, if you have a large pasture fenced with woven wire, you can use a few strands of polywire to create smaller paddocks for rotational grazing. It’s also excellent for training animals to respect electric fences before moving them to more robust systems like netting.

Be realistic about its limitations. Polywire is not a physical barrier. A spooked goat will run through it without a second thought, and a determined predator can easily get past it. Its effectiveness is 100% dependent on a good charger and the animal’s respect for the shock. Use it as a tool for managing animals inside an already secure area, not as your primary line of defense.

Selecting the Right Fence Charger for Your System

Your fence is only as good as the charger—or energizer—that powers it. A weak charger on an excellent fence is a complete waste of money and effort. Skimping here is the most common mistake new homesteaders make.

The most important specification on a charger is its joule output, which is a measure of the shock’s energy. Ignore the "miles of fence" rating, as it’s a nearly useless marketing metric. For deterring predators, you need a low-impedance charger with at least 0.5 joules of output, but 1 to 3 joules is far better for ensuring a painful, memorable experience. A low-impedance model is critical, as it has the power to push voltage through weeds and grass that would cripple older designs.

You have three main power source options:

• AC (110V): Plugs into a standard outlet. This is the most reliable, powerful, and cost-effective option if you can run power to your fenceline.
• DC (Battery): Runs off a 12V deep-cycle marine battery. Good for remote areas, but requires you to haul and recharge the battery regularly.
• Solar: A panel charges a battery, which powers the energizer. This is the ultimate solution for remote fences but has the highest upfront cost and is dependent on adequate sunlight.

Fencing is an active system, not a passive one. It’s an investment in your flock’s safety and your own peace of mind. By matching the right type of fence to your specific predator pressure, management style, and budget, you can build a defense that lets you and your animals rest easy.