7 Field Pea Seed Saving Techniques Old Farmers Swear By

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Selecting Plants for Strong Genetic Traits

The most important work of seed saving happens long before you harvest. You’re not just picking the biggest pods; you are selecting the parent plants for next year’s generation. Walk your rows when the plants are at their peak and mark the best-looking ones with a bit of colored twine or a wooden stake.

What are you looking for? Vigor is key. Look for plants that shot up early, developed a robust frame, and set pods prolifically. Pay close attention to disease resistance—if one plant is thriving while its neighbor is covered in powdery mildew, that’s a genetic trait worth saving. Your goal is to save seed from the strongest, most productive, and healthiest individual plants.

It’s tempting to harvest all the best peas for eating and save seeds from what’s left over. This is a mistake. Doing so means you are unintentionally selecting for mediocrity or late-season performance. Dedicate your best plants entirely to seed production to ensure you’re improving your stock year after year.

Allowing Pods to Fully Dry and Rattle on the Vine

Patience is a seed saver’s greatest virtue. Green pea pods are full of moisture and immature seeds that won’t store well or germinate reliably. You must leave the pods on the vine long after they are good for eating.

The signal for harvest is both auditory and visual. The pods will turn from green to a brittle, papery tan or brown. When you shake a vine, you should hear a distinct rattling sound, like a maraca. This is the sound of mature, dry seeds loose inside their pods.

Waiting carries a small risk. An unexpected wet spell can introduce mold, and if you wait too long, some varieties will split open and drop their seeds on the ground. It’s a balancing act, but it’s far better to wait for that rattle than to harvest too early.

Hand-Harvesting Pods During a Dry Spell

Timing your harvest with the weather is critical. Always aim to pick your dry seed pods during a stretch of dry, sunny days. Harvesting damp pods is the fastest way to invite mold and ruin your entire seed stock before it even gets inside.

The process is simple. Work your way down the rows, snapping the dry, rattling pods off the vine and collecting them in a bucket or basket. Be gentle if some plants are still producing edible pods you want to harvest later. If the entire plant is dry and finished, you can pull the whole plant up by the roots and hang it upside down in a barn or shed to finish drying.

This method is especially useful if you see a long period of rain in the forecast. Pulling the plants allows you to bring the final drying process indoors, protecting your future seeds from the elements. This gives you a level of control that can save the harvest.

Threshing Seeds by Hand in a Tarp or Sack

Threshing is the process of separating the seeds from the pods. For a small-scale farm, you don’t need any special equipment. The old-timers’ method works perfectly and is surprisingly efficient.

Lay a clean, large tarp on the ground or a concrete floor. Pile your dry pods in the center, fold the tarp over, and then walk or shuffle all over it. The pressure of your feet will break open the brittle pods, releasing the seeds. This is often called "the pea dance."

Alternatively, you can place the pods in a sturdy burlap or canvas sack. Make sure to only fill it about halfway to give the pods room to move. Then, you can beat the sack against a hard surface or whack it with a clean, smooth stick. After a few minutes of this, most of the seeds will have been released. The key to both methods is using brittle, fully-dried pods.

Winnowing Chaff with a Fan or a Light Breeze

After threshing, you’ll have a mix of heavy pea seeds and light, papery chaff (the broken pod pieces). Winnowing is the ancient art of using air to separate the two. It’s a skill that feels deeply satisfying once you get the hang of it.

On a day with a light, steady breeze, stand with your back to the wind. Pour the seed and chaff mixture from one bucket into another, holding the first bucket high. The wind will catch the lightweight chaff and blow it away, while the heavier seeds fall straight down into the second bucket. You may need to repeat this several times to get a clean batch.

If the weather isn’t cooperating, a simple box fan works just as well. Set the fan on a low speed and perform the same bucket-to-bucket pour in front of it. This indoor method gives you more control over the airflow and can be done any time. Start with the fan further away and move closer until it’s blowing away the chaff but not the seeds.

Curing Seeds for Two Weeks in a Dry Space

Even seeds that feel bone-dry to the touch contain residual moisture that can cause them to mold in storage. Curing is the final, crucial drying step that ensures their long-term viability. Skipping this step can undo all your hard work.

Spread your cleaned seeds in a single layer on a screen, a baking sheet, or a piece of cardboard. Place them in a warm, dry, and well-ventilated location that is out of direct sunlight. A spare room, a dry attic, or a spot near a dehumidifier are all good options.

Let the seeds cure for at least two weeks. Stir them around with your hand every couple of days to ensure they are all exposed to the air. The seeds are fully cured when you can’t dent one with a fingernail, or when a seed shatters cleanly when hit with a hammer instead of turning to mush.

Testing Seed Viability with the Paper Towel Method

Before you pack away your seeds for the winter, it’s wise to test their germination rate. This simple test tells you how healthy your seeds are and helps you plan your sowing density for next season. A low germination rate means you’ll need to plant more seeds to get the same number of plants.

To perform the test:

• Count out 10 or 20 seeds. Using a round number makes the math easy.
• Place them on one half of a damp paper towel, spaced out so they don’t touch.
• Fold the other half of the towel over the seeds and slide the whole thing into a plastic bag.
• Leave the bag partially open for air circulation and place it in a warm spot.

Check the seeds every day. After 7-10 days, count how many have successfully sprouted. If 9 out of 10 seeds sprouted, you have a 90% germination rate, which is excellent. If only 5 sprouted, you have a 50% rate, and you’ll know to sow twice as thickly next spring.

Storing Seeds in Airtight, Labeled Glass Jars

Proper storage protects your seeds from their three main enemies: heat, light, and moisture. Get this part right, and your field pea seeds can remain viable for three to five years, or even longer.

Glass jars with tight-fitting lids are the gold standard for seed storage. They create an airtight, moisture-proof barrier that plastic bags can’t match. Store the jars in a location that is consistently cool, dark, and dry. A root cellar, a cool closet, or a cabinet far from any heat source are all great choices.

Finally, label everything meticulously. A good label includes the plant variety and, most importantly, the year of harvest. This information is invaluable when you’re rotating your seed stock, ensuring you always use the oldest viable seeds first. You can also toss a food-grade silica desiccant packet into the jar to absorb any trace amounts of moisture, providing an extra layer of insurance.

Saving your own field pea seeds is more than a practical chore; it’s an act of partnership with your land. By carefully selecting, harvesting, and storing these seeds, you are actively breeding a line of peas that is uniquely adapted to thrive in your garden. It’s a powerful step toward a more resilient and self-reliant homestead.