6 Predator-Proof Duck Housing That Outsmart Raccoons and Weasels

There’s no worse sound on a small farm than a panicked squawk in the middle of the night. Raccoons and weasels are not just pests; they are intelligent, persistent, and devastatingly effective predators. Choosing the right housing isn’t just about shelter—it’s about creating a fortress that a clever raccoon can’t unlock and a slender weasel can’t slip through.

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Essential Defenses Against Nocturnal Predators

Before looking at specific coops, you must understand your enemy. Raccoons have dexterous, hand-like paws that can operate simple latches, while weasels can squeeze through any opening larger than a quarter. Your defense strategy has to account for both brute force and cunning infiltration.

Forget chicken wire. It’s designed to keep birds in, not to keep predators out. A raccoon can tear it apart with little effort. The only acceptable wire mesh is 1/2-inch or 1/4-inch hardware cloth, a rigid, welded wire grid that stops prying paws and slender bodies.

Every potential entry point must be secured. This includes vents, windows, and the gaps between the door and its frame. A solid, well-built structure is the foundation, but the details are what make it truly predator-proof.

Omlet Eglu Cube: High-Security Modular Housing

The Omlet Eglu Cube is the high-tech, high-security option for those who want a ready-made solution. Its twin-wall, recycled plastic construction is incredibly tough, leaving no splintered wood for a predator to exploit. It’s also ridiculously easy to clean, which helps maintain flock health.

The security features are built-in and well-thought-out. The main door operates on a rack and pinion system, which is impossible for a raccoon to lift or turn from the outside. The coop also comes with an integrated, steel-mesh run featuring an anti-dig skirt that extends outward along the ground, thwarting animals that try to tunnel underneath.

The primary tradeoff is the price and the size. An Eglu is a significant investment and is best suited for smaller flocks of four to six ducks, depending on the breed. However, for a hobbyist who values peace of mind and low maintenance over a DIY project, it’s one of the most secure out-of-the-box options available.

Producer’s Pride Defender Coop for Small Flocks

You’ll find coops like the Producer’s Pride Defender at most farm supply stores, and they offer an accessible entry point for new duck owners. These wooden, pre-fabricated coops look the part and provide basic shelter. They are a good starting point, but they are not predator-proof without modifications.

Think of these kits as a basic frame that you need to harden. The included latches are often simple barrel bolts or flimsy twist-knobs that a raccoon can solve in minutes. The thin wood and stapled-on wire of the run are also weak points.

To make a coop like this secure, you must plan on spending extra time and money on upgrades.

• Replace all latches with two-step locking mechanisms, like a slide bolt backed up by a carabiner clip.
• Line the entire run, including the top, with 1/2-inch hardware cloth.
• Add a hardware cloth apron around the perimeter to stop digging.

With these reinforcements, an affordable kit can become a respectable fortress. Without them, it’s an invitation for disaster.

The A-Frame Tractor: Mobile and Secure Housing

A duck tractor is a mobile coop and run in one, and its A-frame design is naturally strong and stable. These are excellent for small flocks, allowing you to move your ducks to fresh pasture regularly. This mobility is not just good for your ground; it also keeps predators guessing.

Security in an A-frame comes from its enclosed design. A well-built tractor has no easy access points. The best designs feature hardware cloth floors that allow droppings to pass through while preventing anything from digging in from below. Alternatively, a solid floor provides absolute security, though it requires more frequent cleaning.

The main limitation is space. A-frames are compact by necessity, making them suitable for only a few ducks. They also require relatively flat ground to be moved easily and to sit flush, preventing weasels from slipping under the edges. For a small-scale operation focused on rotational grazing, a secure A-frame is an elegant and effective solution.

Converted Sheds: A Fortified DIY Solution

For the farmer with more time and tools than money, converting a garden shed into a duck house is the ultimate DIY route. You start with a solid structure—four walls, a real roof, and a solid floor. This immediately solves the problems of flimsy construction found in many coop kits.

The work lies in fortification. The floor must be solid and without holes, as raccoons can easily tear through rotting plywood. All windows and ventilation openings must be covered securely from the inside with 1/2-inch hardware cloth screwed into the frame. The door is the most critical element; it needs to be a solid exterior door with a complex, lockable latch that can’t be jiggled open.

This approach offers maximum flexibility in size and layout, allowing you to house a larger flock comfortably. The key is to be brutally honest in your assessment of weak points. Look at your shed from a predator’s perspective: Where would you pry, chew, or squeeze your way in? Address those vulnerabilities before the ducks move in.

SnapLock Formex Coop with Hardware Cloth Upgrades

Similar to Omlet, SnapLock coops are made from a durable plastic material that resists rot and is easy to clean. They assemble quickly without tools, which is a major advantage for those short on time. The solid, double-wall construction provides a good barrier against brute-force attacks.

However, like many pre-fab solutions, its predator resistance hinges on the details. The standard ventilation slots can sometimes be a weak point. A determined weasel might be able to squeeze through, or a raccoon could potentially chew or break the plastic vents.

The most important upgrade for a SnapLock coop is reinforcing these vents from the inside with securely fastened hardware cloth. This simple modification addresses the most likely point of failure. With that one change, a SnapLock coop becomes a formidable, low-maintenance shelter that combines the benefits of modern materials with the security a vigilant farmer demands.

The Walk-In Run: Secure Daytime Enclosure

Predators don’t only hunt at night. Hawks, foxes, and even bold raccoons can strike during the day, so a secure run is just as important as a secure coop. A walk-in run provides ample space for your ducks and allows you to enter easily for cleaning and care, but it must be built with security as the top priority.

A truly secure run has several key features. The entire structure should be framed with sturdy lumber or metal tubing. The lower three to four feet of the walls must be covered in 1/2-inch hardware cloth to stop raccoons and weasels. Above that, heavier gauge welded wire can be used to save on cost, but the bottom section is non-negotiable.

The most overlooked feature is the roof. An open-topped run is a buffet for hawks and climbing predators like raccoons and fishers. The run must be fully enclosed with either solid roofing, aviary netting, or more wire mesh. A secure run transforms your ducks’ outdoor space from a vulnerability into a sanctuary.

Reinforcing Your Coop with Latches and Aprons

No matter which housing you choose, its security ultimately depends on its locks and its foundation. These two areas are where most predator breaches occur, and reinforcing them is the most impactful upgrade you can make.

Raccoons can easily defeat simple slide bolts, hooks, and twist latches. You need a locking system that requires two distinct motions to open.

• Slide Bolt with a Carabiner: The bolt slides, and the carabiner must be unclipped from the hole.
• Padlocked Hasp: A classic and effective solution.
• Self-Locking Gate Latch: These latches click shut and require a specific lift-and-pull motion to open.

To defeat diggers, install a "predator apron." This is a 12- to 24-inch-wide skirt of hardware cloth attached to the base of the coop and run, laid flat on the ground and staked down. When a predator tries to dig at the base, it hits the wire and gives up. This simple, effective barrier stops one of the most common entry tactics.

Ultimately, predator-proofing your duck housing is a system of overlapping defenses, not a single purchase. It requires thinking like a predator—testing every latch, inspecting every seam, and securing every possible opening. By combining a solid structure with smart reinforcements, you can finally get a good night’s sleep, confident that your flock is safe and sound.