FARM Infrastructure

6 Best Tube Chicken Feeders For Small Farms That Prevent Feed Waste

Discover the 6 best tube chicken feeders for small farms. These designs prevent costly feed waste, keeping food clean, dry, and off the ground.

You fill the chicken feeder on Saturday morning, and by Monday, half the feed is scattered in the bedding, mixed with dirt and droppings. This isn’t just frustrating; it’s a direct hit to your wallet and an open invitation for rodents. For a small farm, every bag of feed counts, and turning expensive pellets into dirty coop litter is a problem that needs a real solution.

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Why Tube Feeders Cut Waste on a Small Farm

The fundamental problem with traditional open feeders—whether troughs or hanging bell-style—is access. Chickens are natural foragers, and their instinct is to scratch and peck, flinging feed everywhere with their beaks and feet. This behavior, known as "billing out," can easily waste 30% or more of your feed.

Tube feeders solve this by changing how chickens access their food. Instead of an open tray, they feature small ports or openings at the bottom of a vertical tube. This design forces a chicken to put its head into the port to eat, making it physically impossible to scratch or sling feed out onto the ground. The feed stays in the feeder, where it belongs.

Beyond saving money on feed, this has two critical secondary benefits. First, it keeps the feed clean and free from contamination, which supports better flock health. Second, by containing the feed, you make your coop and run far less attractive to pests like mice, rats, and wild birds, who are drawn to easy, spilled food.

RentACoop Feeder: Top Choice for No-Spill Ports

The RentACoop system isn’t a single feeder, but a set of ports you install yourself. Its genius lies in the 90-degree elbow design of the feeding ports. This simple bend makes it virtually impossible for a chicken to rake feed out, drastically cutting waste to near zero.

These are typically sold as kits, allowing you to turn any food-grade bucket or plastic tote into a high-efficiency feeder. This DIY approach is perfect for a small farm, letting you customize the capacity based on your flock size. You can start with a 5-gallon bucket for a small flock and upgrade to a large storage tote later without having to buy a whole new system.

The tradeoff is the installation. You will need a hole saw to drill openings in your chosen container. While straightforward for anyone comfortable with basic tools, it’s an extra step compared to buying a pre-made feeder. However, for a truly no-spill system, the design is unmatched.

Royal Rooster Feeder: Durable Rain-Proof Design

If your feeder needs to live outside in the run, the Royal Rooster is a top contender. Its defining feature is a built-in rain hood and an upward-sloping port that keeps feed perfectly dry, even in driving rain. Moldy, wet feed is not only wasted but can be harmful to your flock, and this design eliminates that risk entirely.

Constructed from durable, UV-resistant PVC, these feeders are built to last for years in the elements. They are a "buy it once, cry it once" kind of investment. The robust construction and superior weatherproofing justify the higher price tag for farmers who need a reliable outdoor feeding solution.

Placing the feeder outside the coop also frees up valuable interior floor space, which is a significant advantage in smaller coop designs. This allows you to maintain a cleaner indoor environment while giving your flock constant access to clean, dry feed in their run.

OverEZ Gravity Feeder: Simple PVC-Style System

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The OverEZ feeder represents a classic, no-fuss approach to gravity feeding. It’s essentially a large PVC tube with a feeding trough at the bottom. There are no moving parts to break, it’s easy to fill from the top, and its sheer simplicity is its greatest strength.

This design is a massive improvement over open troughs for reducing waste. By containing the feed in a deep reservoir, it prevents chickens from scratching in it or contaminating it with droppings. It’s a straightforward, reliable system that will always get the job done.

However, it’s important to recognize its limitations. The open trough at the bottom, while deep, does not completely prevent chickens from billing out some feed. It significantly reduces waste but doesn’t eliminate it like a port-style feeder does. It’s an excellent middle ground for those seeking simplicity and a major reduction in mess.

Harris Farms Hanging Feeder: For Coop Flexibility

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The Harris Farms hanging feeder is a common sight, and for good reason. Elevating the feeder off the ground is the first and most important step in preventing waste from scratching and contamination. Hanging it also makes it much harder for rodents to access.

One of the main advantages of a hanging model is its adjustability. You can easily set the height of the feeder tray to be level with your chickens’ backs—the ideal height to discourage scratching. As your birds grow from pullets to full-grown hens, you can raise the feeder accordingly.

The downside is that this style still has an open tray. While hanging helps, determined chickens can and will still flick feed out onto the floor. The swinging motion of the feeder can sometimes even encourage this behavior. It’s a good solution for keeping feed clean, but it’s less effective at preventing waste than a true port feeder.

KEBONNIXS Feeder: Large Capacity for Bigger Flocks

When your flock grows beyond a dozen birds, refilling a small feeder every other day becomes a real chore. The KEBONNIXS feeder addresses this head-on with its large capacity, often holding 40 pounds of feed or more. This is a game-changer for reducing daily labor.

These feeders typically combine the best of both worlds: they use highly effective no-spill feeding ports but come as a complete, pre-made unit. You get the waste-prevention benefits of a port system without any of the DIY drilling. The multiple ports allow several chickens to eat peacefully at once, reducing competition.

The primary consideration with a large-capacity feeder is its weight when full. A 40-pound feeder needs to be mounted securely to a solid stud or post. Ensure your chosen location can handle the load to prevent it from being knocked over by animals or weather.

CO-Z Feeder Kit: Includes a Protective Rain Hood

The CO-Z feeder kit operates on the same DIY principle as RentACoop but often includes a key accessory: individual rain hoods for each port. This offers a great balance of weather protection and cost-effectiveness. You get the flexibility of choosing your own container while adding a solid layer of defense against the elements.

The rain hoods are a simple but effective feature, shielding the feeding port from rain and preventing water from getting into the feed. While not as completely weatherproof as the Royal Rooster’s integrated design, it’s more than sufficient for most climates and a major upgrade for any feeder placed in an uncovered run.

This kit is an excellent choice for the farmer who wants the no-spill benefits of a port system and needs some weather resistance without committing to a higher-priced, fully-enclosed unit. It’s a practical, modular solution that adapts to your needs.

Choosing Your Feeder: Port Size and Capacity

Selecting the right feeder comes down to two main factors: your tolerance for waste and the size of your flock. There is no single "best" feeder, only the best one for your specific situation.

First, consider the port style. If your primary goal is to eliminate feed waste almost entirely, a no-spill port feeder like those from RentACoop, Royal Rooster, or KEBONNIXS is the answer. If you’re looking for a simpler system that offers a major reduction in waste but not total elimination, an open-trough gravity feeder like the OverEZ or a hanging feeder will serve you well. Be aware that some flocks may need a day or two to learn how to use the enclosed ports.

Second, match capacity to your flock size and management style. A good rule of thumb is to provide enough feed for at least three to four days.

  • Small Flock (2-8 birds): A 5-gallon bucket with 2-3 ports is perfect.
  • Medium Flock (8-20 birds): A larger tote or a dedicated 40-lb feeder is a better fit.
  • Hands-Off Farmer: If you want to fill your feeder once a week or less, always opt for a larger capacity system, even with a smaller flock.

Ultimately, the goal is to find a system that saves you money on feed and saves you time on chores. Consider where the feeder will be located—inside the coop or outside in the run—and let that guide your decision on weatherproofing.

Investing in a well-designed tube feeder isn’t just about buying another piece of equipment; it’s about streamlining your chores and plugging a major leak in your farm’s budget. By keeping feed clean, dry, and out of the bedding, you’ll save money, reduce pest pressure, and spend less time filling feeders and more time enjoying your flock. It’s a simple change that pays for itself surprisingly quickly.

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