FARM Infrastructure

5 Best John Deere Moldboard Plows For Small Farms That Last

Explore the 5 best John Deere moldboard plows for small farms. This guide highlights durable, reliable models known for longevity and performance.

You’re standing at the edge of a field in late fall, looking at a thick mat of pasture grass or cover crop residue. You know that beneath that surface is rich soil, but you need a way to turn it all over, burying the organic matter to break down over winter and create a clean slate for spring planting. For this timeless task, few tools are as effective or as satisfying to use as a simple moldboard plow. And when it comes to finding a plow that was built to last generations, the old green and yellow iron is hard to beat.

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John Deere 810: The Simple, Indestructible Classic

The John Deere 810 is the definition of a no-frills, get-it-done implement. As an integral plow, it mounts directly to your tractor’s 3-point hitch, making it nimble and easy to transport. You’ll most commonly find them in 2- or 3-bottom configurations, which is a perfect size for tractors in the 30 to 50 horsepower range.

What makes the 810 a legend is its simplicity. There are very few moving parts to fail. The protection system is a simple, inexpensive shear bolt designed to snap if you hit a major rock or root, saving the plow’s frame from catastrophic damage. For a small farm or a large garden plot that needs turning over once a year, the 810 is an honest, dependable tool that just works. Its heavy steel frame can take a surprising amount of abuse.

John Deere F145: Versatility and Toughness

Think of the F145 as the 810’s bigger, tougher brother. It was built for farmers who spent more hours in the seat, and its construction reflects that. The frame is heavier, the components are more robust, and it was available in larger configurations. For a small farm, a 3-bottom F145 is a fantastic, versatile choice that will handle tougher conditions.

The key advantage of many F145 plows is adjustability. Many models allow you to change the furrow width (for example, from 14 to 16 inches), letting you perfectly match the plow to your tractor’s power and tire spacing. This feature also means the plow can grow with you if you upgrade tractors. The F145 often came with an optional spring-reset trip mechanism instead of just shear bolts, which is a massive advantage in rocky ground as the plow bottom simply trips back and resets itself without you ever leaving the seat.

John Deere 416: A Great Match for Compact Tractors

Modern compact tractors are incredibly capable, but they have their limits in weight and hydraulic power. The John Deere 416 (and the smaller 415) was designed specifically for this class of tractor. These are lighter-duty plows, typically found in 1- or 2-bottom versions, that won’t over-stress a 25-horsepower machine.

Matching the implement to the tractor is non-negotiable for both safety and performance. Trying to lift and pull a heavy plow like an F145 with a small compact tractor is a recipe for frustration, poor results, and dangerous instability. The 416 is properly scaled. It allows the tractor’s 3-point hitch and draft control system to work as intended, giving you a beautiful, consistent plowing job without a struggle. It’s the right tool for the job of turning over a large garden or a couple of acres for a food plot.

John Deere No. 52: The Ultimate Pull-Type Plow

Not every older tractor has a 3-point hitch, and not all 3-point hitches have good draft control for maintaining depth. This is where the pull-type, or trailer, plow shines. The John Deere No. 52 is a classic 2-bottom pull-type plow that relies on its own wheels and a simple lift mechanism—either mechanical or hydraulic—to control its depth.

The beauty of a pull-type plow is its consistency. Because it rides on its own wheels, it maintains a very even plowing depth even as the tractor goes over uneven ground. This makes it an excellent choice for older tractors that pull from a simple drawbar. The tradeoff is maneuverability; a pull-type plow is longer and requires more space for turning at the end of a row. But for straight, open fields, the quality of work is exceptional.

John Deere 2500: Reversible for a Level Finish

The John Deere 2500 introduces a game-changing feature: it’s a reversible, or rollover, plow. This design has two sets of plow bottoms (a right-hand set and a left-hand set) mounted on a frame that rotates 180 degrees. At the end of a pass, you simply lift the plow, rotate it, and start your next pass right beside the previous one, always throwing the soil in the same direction.

Why does this matter so much? It completely eliminates the "dead furrow" trench and "back furrow" ridge that a conventional plow leaves in the middle of a field. The result is a perfectly flat and level plowed field from edge to edge. For a market garden, a small hayfield, or any plot where a smooth surface is critical, the finish from a reversible plow is unmatched. These are heavier, more complex, and more expensive plows, but the professional-grade result is often worth the investment.

Choosing the Right John Deere Plow Bottom Type

The "bottom" is the business end of the plow—the assembly of the share, moldboard, and landside that actually cuts and turns the soil. The specific shape of the moldboard is a critical detail that dictates how the plow performs in your specific soil. It’s not a one-size-fits-all situation.

You’ll encounter a few common types on these vintage John Deere plows, and knowing the difference is key.

  • HS (High-Speed) or NU (New Universal) Bottoms: This is the most common, all-purpose design. It provides a clean, well-turned furrow in a wide variety of soil conditions from sandy loam to light clay. If you’re unsure what you need, this is the safest bet.
  • Slat Bottoms: Instead of a solid piece of steel, the moldboard is made of parallel slats. This design is a lifesaver in heavy, sticky clay soils that would otherwise cling to a solid moldboard. The soil breaks apart and falls through the slats, preventing buildup.
  • Stubble Bottoms: These have a shorter, more abrupt curve. They are designed to be more aggressive in turning over and burying heavy trash, like corn stalks or a thick cover crop.

How to Properly Set Your Moldboard Plow Depth

A perfect plowing job is all about consistency, and that starts with setting the depth correctly. Plowing too shallow won’t bury residue effectively, while going too deep wastes fuel and can pull up undesirable, low-fertility subsoil. For most small farm applications, a target depth of 6 to 8 inches is ideal.

For a 3-point hitch plow, the setup involves two key adjustments. First is the tractor’s draft control, which senses the pulling force and automatically raises or lowers the hitch slightly to maintain a consistent depth. Second is the top link, which levels the plow from front to back. When the plow is in the ground, its main frame (or "beam") should be parallel to the ground surface. An unlevel plow will wear out shares quickly and do a poor job.

With a pull-type plow, the process is more direct. You set the depth by adjusting the crank or hydraulic cylinder that controls the plow’s wheels. The key to getting it right with any plow is to make a pass, then get off the tractor with a tape measure and check your furrow depth. Adjust, run another pass, and check again until it’s perfect.

Sourcing Parts for Vintage John Deere Implements

Let’s be realistic: a 50-year-old plow will eventually need new parts. The good news is that because John Deere made so many of these implements, the ecosystem for parts is surprisingly robust. The key is knowing where to look.

Your first stop should always be your local John Deere dealer. You might be surprised to learn they can still order common wear items like shares, landsides, and coulter blades for many of these classic plows. If the dealer can’t help, the aftermarket is your next best friend. Companies like Shoup Parts, Agri-Supply, and others specialize in high-quality replacement parts for older equipment, often at a great price.

For the "hard parts"—a bent beam, a broken casting, or a missing wheel—you’ll need to turn to tractor salvage yards, online forums, and farm auctions. This takes more patience, but it’s often the only way to find the specific structural piece you need. Before you buy any used plow, do a quick online search for its plow shares. If they are readily available, it’s a good sign that keeping the plow in service will be straightforward.

An old John Deere moldboard plow isn’t just a relic; it’s a highly capable tool that embodies the principles of durability and repairability. By matching the right model to your tractor’s size and your field’s conditions, you’re not just buying a piece of iron. You’re investing in a reliable partner for one of the most fundamental tasks in farming: preparing the soil for a new season of growth.

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