FARM Livestock

9 Supplies for Setting Up Your First Chicken Coop

Setting up your first chicken coop? Our guide covers 9 essential supplies, from feeders and waterers to proper bedding for a happy, healthy flock.

Building your first chicken coop is more than just assembling a box; it’s about creating a safe, functional home for your flock. The right supplies aren’t about fancy gadgets, but about preventing problems before they start—from predators to pests to poor health. Getting the setup right from day one saves you time, money, and heartache down the road.

Disclosure: As an Amazon Associate, this site earns from qualifying purchases. Thank you!

Key Supplies for a Safe and Healthy Chicken Coop

Setting up a chicken coop is a foundational task that dictates the health of your flock and the ease of your daily chores for years to come. The goal is to build a fortress that keeps predators out and a home that keeps your chickens healthy and comfortable. This means focusing on the essentials: a reliable source of clean food and water, dry and absorbent bedding, and absolute security from the elements and local wildlife.

Every item you add to your coop should serve a purpose. A good feeder prevents waste and contamination. The right bedding controls ammonia and moisture, which are enemies of avian respiratory health. Proper predator-proofing is non-negotiable; a single weak point can lead to a devastating loss overnight. Think of these supplies not as expenses, but as investments in the well-being of your animals and your own peace of mind.

Poultry Waterer – Harris Farms Double Wall Drinker

Every living thing needs water, but chickens have a special talent for fouling their water source within minutes. A simple bowl on the ground will be filled with dirt, shavings, and droppings almost immediately, creating a health hazard. A dedicated poultry waterer elevates the water, keeping it clean and accessible while minimizing spillage that can lead to a damp, unhealthy coop environment.

The Harris Farms Double Wall Drinker is a classic for a reason. Its galvanized steel construction is incredibly durable, resisting the cracks and sun damage that plague plastic waterers. The double-wall, vacuum-sealed design ensures a slow, steady release of water into the trough, preventing overflows and keeping the water cooler in warm weather. It’s heavy enough that even boisterous hens won’t knock it over.

Before buying, consider the size. The 2-gallon model is sufficient for up to 25 chickens, while the 5-gallon is better for larger flocks or for extending time between refills. Be aware that these can be heavy to carry when full, and the metal can get hot in direct summer sun, so place it in a shaded part of the coop or run. This drinker is perfect for the keeper who values durability and simplicity over automated systems.

Hanging Feeder – RentACoop Hanging Poultry Feeder

Chickens are wasteful eaters. With a ground-level trough or dish, they will scratch through the feed, kicking much of it onto the floor where it gets mixed with bedding and manure. A hanging feeder lifts the feed off the ground, not only keeping it clean but also making it a less attractive target for rodents. This single piece of equipment can dramatically cut down on your feed bill.

The RentACoop Hanging Poultry Feeder is an exceptionally efficient design. Instead of an open trough, it uses feeding ports that allow a chicken to stick its head in to eat, preventing them from "billing out" or scattering the feed. The 20-pound capacity means you aren’t refilling it every day, and the included rain hood makes it suitable for use in an uncovered run. This design significantly reduces waste.

Hanging this feeder at the right height—level with your chickens’ backs—is crucial for it to work effectively. There may be a short learning curve as your flock gets used to the ports, but they learn quickly. This feeder is an excellent choice for flocks of 5 to 20 birds, especially for owners who want to "set it and forget it" for a few days at a time. It may be less suitable for very small bantam breeds who could struggle to reach the ports.

Coop Bedding – Standlee Premium Pine Shavings

Bedding is the workhorse of your coop’s interior. Its primary jobs are to absorb moisture from droppings, control ammonia odor, and give your flock a comfortable surface to walk and rest on. The wrong bedding can hold too much moisture, leading to frostbite in winter, or be too dusty, causing chronic respiratory problems.

Standlee Premium Pine Shavings are the ideal choice for coop bedding. They are kiln-dried, which removes excess moisture and kills potential pathogens, and they are screened to be low-dust. This is critical for protecting the sensitive respiratory systems of chickens. Pine shavings are highly absorbent, clump well for easy spot-cleaning, and have a natural, pleasant scent that helps control coop odors.

Unlike straw, which doesn’t absorb well and can harbor mites, pine shavings actively manage moisture. A compressed bale expands to cover a significant area, making it cost-effective. For best results, use the deep litter method: start with a 4-6 inch layer and turn it regularly, adding fresh shavings on top as needed. This is the go-to, reliable bedding for any chicken keeper focused on flock health.

Predator-Proofing – Amagabeli Hardware Cloth ½ Inch

This is the single most important supply for keeping your chickens alive. Many beginners mistakenly use "chicken wire" on their coops, assuming it’s for security. Chicken wire is designed only to keep chickens in a certain area. It does nothing to stop a raccoon, which can reach right through the wide holes or simply rip it open. True security comes from a material that is both strong and has a small mesh.

Amagabeli ½ Inch Hardware Cloth is the standard for coop security. Made of galvanized, welded steel, it is incredibly tough and rust-resistant. The ½ inch mesh is the key feature; it’s small enough to block the grasping hands of a raccoon and prevent weasels, snakes, and even large rats from squeezing through. It should be used to cover every single opening in your coop: windows, vents, and any gaps.

Working with hardware cloth requires effort. You will need sturdy tin snips to cut it and heavy-duty work gloves to protect your hands from the sharp edges. For maximum security, attach it to the coop frame using screws and washers, not just staples. To stop digging predators like foxes or dogs, you should also bury a 12-inch "skirt" of hardware cloth flat on the ground around the entire perimeter of your run. This is a non-negotiable supply for every single chicken keeper.

Automatic Door – ChickenGuard Standard Coop Door Opener

One of the most relentless chores of chicken keeping is being there every single morning at sunrise to let the flock out and every single evening at dusk to lock them in securely. An automatic coop door removes that burden, ensuring your chickens are protected on a perfect schedule, whether you’re home, running late, or on vacation. It provides both security for the flock and freedom for the keeper.

The ChickenGuard Standard Coop Door Opener is a reliable, no-fuss workhorse. It operates on 4 AA batteries, so you don’t need to run electricity to your coop. You can program it to open and close based on a timer, a light sensor, or a combination of both. The unit is weatherproof and built to withstand the elements, and its motor is strong enough to lift and lower most standard wooden or aluminum coop doors.

Installation is straightforward for most coop designs, but you need a vertically-sliding door for it to operate (often sold separately). It’s crucial to check the batteries periodically, as their lifespan can be shorter in very cold climates. While it may seem like a luxury, an automatic door is one of the best investments you can make for coop management. It’s for anyone who values consistency and wants to remove a point of daily failure from their system.

Assembling Your Coop: A Few Quick Tips

A well-built coop starts before you even drive the first screw. First, consider location. Your coop needs a well-drained spot that gets morning sun to dry out the dew but offers shade from the harsh afternoon sun. Avoid placing it in a low-lying area where water will pool and create a muddy, unhealthy environment.

Before assembly, ensure the ground is perfectly level. Building on an uneven surface will throw off the entire structure, making doors stick and creating gaps for drafts or predators. Use a level and paver stones or cinder blocks to create a solid, flat foundation. This small step prevents major headaches later.

Finally, think about longevity and cleanliness. Seal all the wooden seams with a quality exterior caulk before painting. A good coat of exterior paint not only protects the wood from rot but also seals the pores, making it much harder for mites and lice to hide. A smooth, sealed surface is also far easier to scrub clean.

Brooder Heat Lamp – Prima Heat Lamp by Premier 1

Best Overall
We earn a commission if you make a purchase, at no additional cost to you.
05/09/2026 11:28 pm GMT

If you’re starting with day-old chicks, a safe and reliable heat source is not optional—it’s essential for their survival. Chicks cannot regulate their own body temperature for the first several weeks and depend on an external heat source to stay warm. The most common cause of brooder accidents is a poorly secured heat lamp, making safety the number one priority.

The Prima Heat Lamp by Premier 1 is designed with safety at its core. Unlike cheap, open-faced metal lamps, the Prima has a heavy-duty plastic shield that prevents the hot bulb from coming into direct contact with flammable bedding if it falls. It also features a strong, reliable clamp and an anti-chew wire guard on the cord to prevent damage.

Always use a red 250-watt bulb, as the red light is less likely to encourage feather-pecking among chicks than a bright white light. As a critical backup, never rely on the clamp alone. Use a chain or strong wire to securely hang the lamp from a solid point above the brooder. This lamp is a must-have for anyone raising chicks and is not needed if you are starting with mature hens.

Chick Starter Feed – Purina Start & Grow Medicated

Chicks have unique dietary needs, requiring higher protein for rapid growth and a specific balance of vitamins and minerals. Feeding them standard layer feed too early can cause permanent kidney damage. A high-quality starter feed is formulated to provide everything a chick needs for the first 8-10 weeks of its life.

Purina Start & Grow Medicated is the industry standard for a reason. It provides a complete, balanced nutritional profile for young, growing birds. The "medicated" formula contains amprolium, a coccidiostat that helps prevent coccidiosis—a common and highly lethal intestinal disease in chicks. It’s not an antibiotic, but a preventative that helps chicks build their natural immunity.

You should provide this feed exclusively until your chicks are about 8 weeks old, at which point you can switch to a grower feed. If your chicks have been vaccinated for coccidiosis by the hatchery, you should use the non-medicated version of this feed, as the medicated feed will interfere with the vaccine. For anyone raising chicks from a feed store or mail-order hatchery, the medicated version is the safest bet.

Nesting Box Liners – National Poultry Nesting Pads

The goal for every egg is for it to be clean, uncracked, and easy to collect. Hens often scratch their bedding out of the nesting boxes, leaving eggs to be laid on a hard, bare surface where they can easily break and create a mess. Even with shavings, eggs can become soiled with manure from the hens’ feet. Nesting box liners provide a simple solution to both problems.

The National Poultry Nesting Pads are a significant upgrade from loose bedding. Made from a durable but soft material (often excelsior wood shavings bonded to paper), they provide a thick, stable cushion that prevents eggs from breaking. The textured surface also allows moisture and droppings to fall through, keeping the egg-laying surface itself much cleaner. This results in fewer dirty eggs that need to be washed.

These pads can be cut to fit any size nesting box and are far more difficult for hens to kick out than loose shavings. While they are reusable to an extent, they will need to be replaced when they become heavily soiled. For the coop keeper who prizes clean, intact eggs and wants to simplify the daily collection chore, these pads are an excellent and affordable improvement.

Grit Feeder – Little Giant 3-Hole Wall Feeder

Chickens don’t have teeth; they use tiny stones, or grit, in their gizzard to grind up their food. While free-ranging chickens can often find enough grit on their own, birds confined to a coop and run need it to be provided. Without grit, they cannot properly digest their food, especially whole grains, seeds, or kitchen scraps.

The Little Giant 3-Hole Wall Feeder is perfectly suited for offering supplements like grit or oyster shell (for eggshell strength). Its wall-mounted design is its best feature, as it keeps the grit off the floor and free from contamination with manure and bedding. This ensures the chickens have access to clean grit whenever they need it, without taking up valuable floor space.

This feeder is made of heavy-duty galvanized steel and is easy to install with a couple of screws. Its small size makes it unsuitable for primary feed, but it’s ideal for the free-choice supplements that chickens only consume in small amounts. It’s a simple, durable piece of equipment that solves a specific need efficiently.

Your Coop is Ready: What Comes Next?

With your coop assembled and fully equipped, the final step is introducing your flock to their new home. The smoothest way to do this is to move them in at dusk. Chickens have poor night vision and a strong instinct to roost in a safe place, so placing them on the roosting bars after dark will encourage them to accept the coop as their new home base by morning.

For the first week, keep the flock confined to the coop and the attached run. Do not let them free-range. This period is crucial for teaching them that this specific structure is "home"—the place they should return to every single night to roost and lay their eggs. This simple step will save you from having to hunt for chickens or eggs all over your property.

Establish a daily routine from day one. Check their food and water, collect eggs, and do a quick visual inspection of the flock’s health each day. This consistency not only benefits the chickens but also allows you to quickly notice if something is wrong. Your well-equipped coop is now ready to become a thriving, active part of your homestead.

Your coop is now more than just a shelter; it’s a complete life-support system for your flock. By choosing durable, functional supplies, you’ve set the stage for healthy birds and manageable chores. Now, the real fun of raising chickens begins.

Similar Posts